anyoldiron

bleedin' back brake.You are not alone my friend.I share that Hell with you.Hours in the shed,brake fluid everywhere,contradicting everything I know about bleeding brakes,defying logic,trying to understand hundreds of posted instructions on how to do it,all different but somehow similar.Don't give up.It will happen.It must. As to how where it comes in-the air that is-I read somewhere in my quest that brake fluid eventually boils at a high enough temperature(brake fluid absorbs moisture),therefore bubbles,therefore air and they do get hot.I reckon on mine I let the back brakes get worn way down too low so less thermal resistance and then driving around with back brake on thus boiling the system;maybe.I don,t know but its narking me off big time.Good luck.If anyone comes up with easy monosyllable single line explanations I'd really appreciate it,although Beta manual does and that was a fat lot of help.

Compared to the price of a new shock thats well over half price.If you can find someone who will recondition it for less,good for you. I don't think you are being tight but loads of things seem way expensive,as if money doesn't have much value right now.But anyway,get the best you can afford.Might be worth calling some of the big name shock experts like Falcon ,see what their price is,or go local like Ralphy says.I would always have faith in Lampkins.Expensive business throwing motorcycles at rocks,worth every penny if you ask me.

Crikey..........!

Also Lampkins have all the engine and parts lists on pdf file on the website,also pricelist,which is handy

Hi Adam How did the hub break?? Could you not get a new hub and relace the wheel.?

As long as you remember to pack the grinder it should fit in a couple of suitcases.Just remember to drain the oil as I think thats banned on airflights nowadays..

I think the top yoke is

Might have missed something on previous thread.08 rev 3 top yoke.Fat bars as standard.Dont know about the Evo tho.

Go Tucker Rocky

Hi all.I want to put boyesen reeds in an 08 250 rev 3.Been reading a few threads about reeds.Could anyone give me some advice such as rejetting-it seems going to a 145 main and 27.5 pilot helps.Also some people recommend binning the rev plate?and binning a spacer between the carb and inlet??Also are the 08 carbs wider than 07 and before,so are there different reeds for 08 .Any advice would be much appreciated as everyone whos done it seems well chuffed with the result,seems a good way to go..

Nice one Dan.

I think you'll find one of the reasons the gear shift is difficult to operate is to stop the gearbox changing gear unintentionally from being knocked by a hazard be it tree rock etc.This is intended by design.Particularly dont want to accidentally'find' neutral just before some riding manouvers., ...The clutch mod sounds good.I should try it.Mine is nonexistant when cold. All the best Chris

Funny thing is-mine started to whine this week.It's 08.If it is normal,why should it start to whine when its 16 months old.Maybe it is the mains.I hope not.No play at flywheel and the sound doesn,t change if you lean the bike over.Is a whine the same as a wooshing sound and do you hear the whine only when in gear with motion or in neutral as well? Youtube man got a serious slack chain thing going there.Obviously not a maintenance freak..

Hmm..Lots of questions..Pretty sure all the oil hadn,t leaked out by the fact that the suspension still feels right .I haven,t checked because of this.As to what film,it has to be ilford 400 b and w developed(this is very important)by 80 year old virgins on a full moon.Digital,well I dunno,only recently gone modern,don,t rush me..........Still,gives a use for anyone whos got a box of undeveloped holiday snaps from days of yore. Just checked the oil level in the fork as The Addict got me a panicking there and its mostly all there,down 20 mm from where it should be ,so IT DID WORK.

Out on the bike today.Stop for a rest.Sit back to admire my dear bike and notice grey oil all over mudgaurd, fork,radiator,wheelrim and smell of fork oil.Sh**e,I think.Get back ready to strip fork,order spare seal tomorrow etc.Then what remnants I have of memory reminds me of something I read here.9 times out of 10,somebody wrote,its not the seal its just crud twixt seal and fork.So I whip off the dust cover,slide a strip of camera film(as recommended)between the seal and fork,run it around the fork, clean it up,pop back the dust cover,Bounce up and down on bike-NO LEAK.Start engine and bounce about yard-NO LEAK.Noodle around like a spring goat.How happy am I.None of my hard earned to Beta or whoever in the morning.All those dark evenings reading the forums pays off

I,ve had the trialcast pegs on for a while.they,re cast stainless steel so not as light as some but they seem very robust with a good platform,biggish holes for crap to disappear down.Also they are not so grippy that you can,t get your foot off when you need to dab.Not fun when you try and put your foot down and its stuck on the peg is it?They also do cast hangers which are probably way stronger than ally ones.Anyway,my vote is for trialcast And they are cheap comparatively.And they look well bling..................

Hello again-just realised after 8 months that I don,t have a weight on the flywheel .Just tried it with one on and not quite sure if I like it.Smooth it is,possibly spongey,maybe even dull. I can see it coming off fairly soon.tis lovely smooth though.I will see how it goes.Shows how much I know ........

Hi.I,ve always reckoned on being a bit slack rather than tight.Also I have had cams that go from too slack to tight like you.I find the notched ones bad for this because you go from one set position to another,ie too loose to too tight.Cams without notches work better for me as you can go inbetween notches if you get my drift,so only move back wheel a wee bit.I,d go with too slack and not worry about it too much,within reason.I think too tight puts more wear on the sprockets.I know the beta manual says 20 mm but I often have it between that and 10 mm.Have fun at the trial

Hi Andy.I remembr seeing a video on the Gas Gas site explaining how to do the fork seals.There is also the same video on youtube.I found it helpful for my Beta which was fairly simple in the end.On mine there was a retaining clip under the dust cap that I didnt notice at first and I needed to heat the tube to finally pull the slider out of the bottom tube.Other than that it was straightforward and I imagine the GG is too.Probably got the same Paolis anyway. Clutches on trials machines are generally quite tricky at cold.They are relatively big and designed to be used as we use them so try to forgive them being a bit of a pain after start up.I cant engage first and can only clunk into second from cold.When everything is warm there is no problem.Dont know about the brake thing but I am sure you can find it in the archive here or some helpful soul will tell you what to do .All the best.Enjoy the bike. Chris

Have a look here half way down the page http://www.xispa25.com/xispa/X250R/X250R.html Not quite sure what they are for? Sort of a dust cover or horse rug kind of thing.Dont tell me you are supposed to ride with this thing on ....................

." and as for "whats the point in this?", whats the point in anything? why do you ride up hills and over rocks? seems just as pointless as doing a 10 mile wheelie, " You are my hero for the day.Good luck mate

Hi.There is a flywheel weight you can remove.I have the same bike as you and I haven,t and I won,t remove it.Reason being its plenty enough as it is for me.Particularly when I,m in the process of falling off I generally have this habit of trying to stay on,often by holding on to the handlebars,which ends up with me twisting the throttle and loop the loop one way or the other.If it was any more fruity or aggresive I would be scared.Have you got a fast action throttle?They can make a difference.Also cakky silencers slows up things.Also I remember reading somewhere here that the flywheel weight helped in UK conditions,something to do with traction in the wet.But maybe you are an ace rider and need as much grunt as possible.I,m not and I find it plenty as it is.Thats my opinion and I haven,t tried it without.People do say it makes em frisky.Try it.You can always put it back again.All the best

Nice one.Thanks for the info.No problem then.I,ll go and find something else to fret about.

Thank you very much amazingly helpful and knowledgeable people.Floating discs eh?Now I can stop worrying about that.Never noticed it riding,just a shed thing.Seems odd to have it loose there as I would have thought it would add more stress but anyway.....

Hello.I noticed a while back my back brake disc was a little loose.Not alot.Thought I,d tighten it up but the bolts weren,t loose.Tried shorter bolts,more washers .No change.So forgot to worry about it for a while.Had the bright idea to look at front disc today and saw this is the same.So now do I worry twice as much and do something about it-any ideas,or forget it and face the consequences of my neglect.Anyone got any ideas how to have a brake disc that doesn,t move or anyone have similar brake problem.All the best