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grahamjayzee

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Everything posted by grahamjayzee

  1. Agree, It's a lovely flowing ride. Reminds me of Scotland. So, shrewd move for Albert to ride the SSDT?
  2. Well, I'm a 48 year old clubbie and went for the 290 as I found it gentle and easy to find and keep grip. The 250 I rode (and I accept that bike to bike, year to year there are differences) was just a touch flightier. Love my 290, I no longer even think about the bike, just the section. Great bike Graham
  3. That is the funniest thing I've seen on here in a long time! I love how the emphasis changes from "I can get out for a 3", to "Can you help me get the bike out" to "Oh bo77ocks"... Well done that man!
  4. All, Just an update in case anyone is still interested! I have now used the fox titans in a trial and can honestly say that I barely noticed them. Once I got them into a comfortable position where they sat under the top edge of the boot, they were fine. Of course, I now cam nowhere near needing to test them, but am perfectly happy if they remain untroubled! Graham
  5. I used a pair for 2 seasons and they were pretty good. I certainly never felt the need to ditch them. True enough, I can tell the difference an IRC gives me in soft southern shandy drinking mud, but for the cash they are not so bad. The seasons I had them on the bike was largely dry, and for summer trials I'd be hard pushed to tell the difference... But I am a bit crap... Graham
  6. Welcome Matt, Glad to hear you are supporting your local trials shops! Graham
  7. It does sound like fuel starvation. +1 for the post above; check that fuel is actually getting through. Then have a look to see if the float is stuck. I once put the floats in upsde down (yes, I know...) and that means the fuel valve is permanently closed...
  8. This has been a most enjoyable thread. Have we come anywhere near answering the poor chap's question? ;-)
  9. Good luck Martin. Don't be afraid to ask for more info if you have another bike to view. Let us know how you get on Graham
  10. Yes, the one with the rattly top end? Indeed a Rev3 is a better bike than the Tecno...
  11. There's one observer that regularly deflates round our way. He's now banned from extra onions on his pre-trial burger...
  12. All the above applies! In truth, it seems a bit steep, BUT, you could spend months searching out a better deal and that time is probable best spent riding. Engine capacity is pretty much unimportant. If you call John Lampkin (search Beta UK), he'll tell you straight away if you are concerned. Be careful about all the 'little things' though as they can soon mount up to be a 'big bill'! Just to give you some idea (and most of these things will need doing at some point on an older bike: Wheel bearings about £15 a wheel Swinging arm bearings/ bushes about £50 Linkage bearings about £60 Shock spherical bearings about £30 each end For seals (including oil) about £40 Tyres about £130 All are pretty easy to do, but this will help keep the price in perspective. It is possible to buy a decent honest bike that needs very few of the above for £1k (less if you're really patient); this guy has taken this as a p/ex and may not know about trials bikes. As such, he may not know the significance of any of the above (particularly tyres; those that don't know see 5mm+ of tread and think the tyre has years left; a trials tyre is knackered when it has the same depth of tread as when you bought it, but the edge has worn!). Control interfaces can add up; you don't want broken levers as the ball end is there to stop it puncturing you in a nasty; £15 each. Bent handlebars are £50 and plastics can cost loads. Even a pair of handlegrips is a tenner and it can all mount up. As stated above, if you get to water pumps and pistons etc, I suggest you keep looking. Otherwise, if it is a good, honest and sound bike, a 97 techno is a perfectly decent bike! Remember, don't let your heart overrule your head! Good luck Graham
  13. I think I'd struggle to reach the handlebars...
  14. grahamjayzee

    Twisted 200

    If I have, I'm deeply worried!
  15. grahamjayzee

    Twisted 200

    I think Brian, these were factory mods that the riders selected depending if the sections went left or right... I'll get me coat...
  16. What a fantastic post! It's good to see another perspective on the issue. I think the spectator involvement is a very good point; the more that see, the more chance we have of getting a few more newbies. The more spectators, the less unlikely it is that the tv people will ignore it (see the excellent S4C coverage last week). Just because trials has 'Never been about spectators' doesn't mean it WILL never be, and who is to say that is correct. Still, the same question remains; how do we pay for all this? Chicken and egg; spectator numbers provide funds, until you have funds, getting spectaors ain't easy. Graham
  17. Great Video Nick. I like Beazley End, but decided to do some jobs at home that day. I got a double whammy; built up some brownie points AND avoided a humiliating drowning! Will you be back there for our club's Turkey Trot trial in December? Hopefully it will be a bit drier... Graham
  18. Hi and Welcome. I'd check 2 things first off; is it 2001 and is it a techno? 2000/2001 were crossover years for the last of the technos and first of the Rev3s. The rev3 is superior in pretty much all areas. As for parts; you can get all you need for either model, but for a 2001 bike at £800, it's top dollar so expect it to need for nothing at that price. If it does, I suggest walking away as there is plenty of choice. You've spotted the right things to look for; bearings are the area that takes a hammering. Check for wheel bearing play (not expensive) and gently lift the rear of the bike to feel for free play in the linkages (a Techno has linkages, a rev3 doesn't, but the shock lower mount will also show up on this test, and that's £30). Tyres adds £120 to the bill. As a beginner, it's not so critical, but if you ride trials, you'll need a decent driving edge. If the edges are rounded, they are good for practice and general playing only. Otherwise, it doesn't matter whether the bike is 12 months or 12 years old, you'll still have fun! Anything else, just ask. Graham
  19. Welcome Paul, and great username! Whereabouts in the SE are you? It's quite a big place! I'm suffolk/ essex border and we are spoilt for clubs and trials in this area. But having ridden in various parts of the country, I'm yet to find a club that is unwelcoming of beginners (I'm not a beginner and am therefore less welcome; harsh words often come my way, but that's probably deserved!). I think your best bet is to go along to the next trial that is nearest to you and join up. Once you are known to the club, you have the collective resources available to you. A club is an excellent place to buy bikes too. For £1k, you can easily buy a bike, but if you intend to trial (as opposed to ride it around fields), you may get frustrated by some issues bikes in this price range can suffer. A bike that is older but regularly trialled will usually have been maintained to a standard that keeps it trial-worthy. As above, don't worry about models; they all have their own nuances and strengths and weaknesses, but you won't know what fits you best until you're in the saddle. Best is to get started. Find a bike that is in the best condition you can. The specific areas that wear and detract from the pleasure are similar on all makes: Wheel bearings, swinging arm bearings, shock linkages, fork seals, brake pads and sometimes carb wear. Engine rattles are usually pretty obvious. Tyres is the single biggest area, but they wear out so are a consumable. It's not the tread depth, but the squareness of the driving edge that matters. None of these areas are particularly costly on their own, but a bike that needs several of these can soon owe you £300 if you're not careful. Good luck though, and if you are anywhere close to north Essex/ South Suffolk, give me a shout and I'll give you some details as to where to start. Graham
  20. Knew someone would put me right! Dan, may be the riding position. I had a 2001 Rev3 and loved it. I also have a 2002 280 gasser in my garage that belongs to a mate. I find the front very high on that and would change the bars if it were my bike. That does put your weight firther back though, so makes grip easier to find. I found the steering too vague as it was, whci is the trade off. Try playing around with the bar position; it's easy to do and makes a surprisingly big difference. Betas are quite long so you can rock the bars back a way without them feeling too cramped. I got the Rev3 after 13 years out of the sport and deliberately set the bars a long way back. This was to counter the tendendcy I had as a begenner to 'climb the front' and loose grip. Don't know if it worked, but it's a thought! If all else fails, buy a gasser; it may be that it simply suits you better! However, there are often trade offs...
  21. Hello Dan and welcome. Many things affect the ability to find and maintain grip. You've covered one of the main ones; a good sharp driving edge on the rear tyre. You can go softer; 2.5 - 3psi is good. A 270 Rev 3 can be a bit snappy. Check the colour of the throttle tube. You need a slow action one if possible. I can't remember for sure, but I think white tube is slow, black is fast. Someone will put me right on this. Less than a score to change and it makes the bike much tamer off the bottom of the power. This is often where grip is broken. A flywheel weight willl help. If you take the generator cover off, the flywheel weight will be bolted to the, er, flywheel if there is one. If you can get one, fit it. It's easy to take off when you have developed the deft throttle control we all seek. This again slows down the take up and dampens any throttle inputs helping you to stay in grip. Try rotating the bars back a touch to put your weaight a little further back. The rest is down to technique. Keep your weight back, and less obviously, low. This loads the rear tyre. The more you practice the better. If you can generate that essential feel where you are driving but keeping the front wheel on the ground, you are pretty much there. The good news is, once you crack this, you'll have mastered about the most important skill required! Good Luck Graham
  22. Ash, I think it's the volume of fluid, both in the system and per lever stroke that makes it hard to shift the air. The rear is a particular problem on Betas because the M/c is on the opposite side to the caliper, so you have a loop where the air can remain trapped. Worse, the banjos oppose so even with the system off the bike it is hard to find an attitude where there isn't an air trap of some form. When I was at my wit's end with my rear brake, I replicated the system with clear tube and could see an air bubble that never fully made it over the 'hump' in the tube. If you get frustrated and pump like a lunatic, the fluid cavitates and you get froth, making the problem worse! A combination of patience and constantly moving the system around to tease the air towards the bleed nipple eventually prevailed. BTW, performance tails off hugely when the pads are worn, particularly the rear. I think this is largely down to air again! If there is any at all in the system, the overall increased volume is more affected by heat, and you get more heat back into the caliper when there is less pad material. We often drag the rear too, so we can get the fluid very hot, which will make the brakes spongey... Graham
  23. When you say 'shot' what do you mean? Unless the metal of the caliper body is damaged, a piston and seal kit will normally be all you need and they are not silly money (I recall about £25). You will of course then be confronted with the spectre of trials bike brake bleeding and expect to question every part of the system, and the parentage of anyone involved in it's design! However, and this is the big one, bleed it will, and a well bled brake will perform. So, when you say 'shot' do you mean damaged, or just not working well? If you replace the caliper, even with a new one, you will have the same problem; bleeding. So I guess I'm leading to the question, are you absolutely certain the brake is properly bled? If you describe the symptoms, we can try to get to the root cause and prevent you spending any more than you need. I have written a few quite detailed replies to people struggling with Beta brakes (do a search) as they (and you) all have my sympathy! It took me 2 weeks of patience, working most evenings at it until the final glimmers of firmness appeared! Graham
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