grahamjayzee

Interesting... I was hoping everyone would say something like "you need to be a half decent expert rider to even consider it". The seed has now been planted; the easy bit is now getting the skills, practice time, some northern trials, a new bike etc etc. The hard part is convincing the present Mrs Jayzee...

Hi All, Daft question time: How hard is the SSDT? To put that in more words; I'm an average clubman that rides the clubbie route in Sarf Midlands trials. I've done so (despite a long break) for many years and usually survive a Sunday. I'm pretty fit (4 London Marathon finishes and many, many half marathins, 10k etc) and am unlikely to croak with a week of hard effort. As a follower of the sport for many years, as far as I'm concerned the SSDT is THE trial to do. It's on the bucket list... The question is, is it an attainable goal? Is an average clubmen going to record so many fives and damage themselves so badly as to incovenience others and generally get in the way? I'd love to do it once bfore I'm called. I'd love to hear the experiences of similar wobblers. Graham

Thanks Trialsin1, that's really helpful. I have an option on a tidy 06, which looks just the job. I've long since realised it's me, not the bike anyway! Graham

Hi All, I'm going to replace my aging 2001 rev3 with a newer bike. A pending house move is stifling my budget, so I'm going to take a pragmatic view and just stick to what I know works for me and buy a newer rev3. Here's were I need your expertise and indeed, opinions: What are the changes year on year for the various Rev3 iterations? I'm aiming 2005 or later because I know I prefer the rear brake when it reverted to twin pot from the 4 potter. However, I rode a 2004 bike and found it overly soft. Can anyone offer a potted history of the significant changes from 05 - 06 - 07 - 08 please? In particular, things like changes to riding position, power delivery (the general 'cut of it's trousers'; is it too clubbie or too expert?) and important reliability issues I need to look for. If anyone's really kind and well versed; what are the significant differences to a late Rev3 and an early Evo? I'll probably stick with Beta as I've always found they 'fit' me well (I like gassers, but still find the front a bit light. I'm sure I'd get used to it, but the 'old slippers' feel of a Beta always welcomes me home!) Cheers Graham

Hi, I live near Cambridge and paid

The only way you'll get a shock touching some metal is if you have a grounding issue. That may be that you have a 'floating' ground (as may happen if, as mentioned above, something like a lighting kit is removed without tieing down the output of a coil, or ensuring stray cables cannot touch metal), but may also be that a ground is dirty or loose. I'd look here first. Also look for bare insulation on any wires and particularly look around th coil area and HT lead. Good luck, and wear wellies... Graham

Hi Dean, Sounds like an interesting project. However, after following you around Elsworth last week, you'd still beat me if you were riding a wheelie bin! See you next week Graham

The trait you describe is a factory addition. It's there in case the 'Beta' badges come off. That way it's still clearly identifiable as a Beta! If you search the Beta forum on 'leaking carbs' you'll find that you're not alone on this one. The same was the case on my 1992 Beta Zero 260. The only problem it caused me was that the missus banned me from keeping it in the lounge as the smell of petrol gave her a headache... Graham

They're a benevolent and understanding lot; I'm sure you'll get a ride. Graham

Depends what it needs to hear! There are a few Betaisti going. I've got an old 2001 bike that's emitted most of the likely noises. Simon and Mark will probably be there and Nick has a good load of Beta experience. Graham

Probably the bush in the shock bottom eye. However, check the linkage bearings as well. Used to go from time to time in my old Zero. Not difficult to change and all parts are available (along with excellent advice) from John Lampkin at Beta UK. Graham

Hi Tom, As many people will have advised, it's hard to avoid junk at this price point. The trouble is supply and demand. There are many people looking for an apparent bargain and so more people are interested in cheap bikes than expensive ones. As a result, the price gets pushed past the worth. Often you'll pay

I'm only trying to help. Some people...

It should go on no problem. You may need to make some spacers for the stabilisers though.

Stabilizers? ;-)

Hi All, Anyone had any results for the rather enjoyable but challenging trial at Honeydon, Eaton Socon on May 9th? The delay may be my fault. I suspect my scores are still being added up... Graham

Hi, Being a mean git who's a master of lateral thinking; for practice I bought several strips of PVC red. white and blue bunting. Each flag can then be cut into 4 equal triangles. Red and blue for the main route, white for the easy variation. One staple gun and the job was a good'un. A few sharpened sticks for those places where handy trees weren't available and my work was done. The bunting was about 3squid a strip from ebay. Graham

Hi, Can't comment on the Kliponoff rack, but the DC one I use is fine. I bought a spare centre section and have one on my mondeo estate and the other on my big old Nissan Patrol (for when it's proper muddy!) and both are fine. I have the van/ estate versions which take the bike slightly further out, and I have to take the spare wheel off the patrol. Other than that, it's a good piece of kit. Graham

Good tip, Anotherfive. As for re-fitting the whole assembly, you need to take the airbox off. I think I had the subframe off as it gives you lots of room then. It's not too hard though. Graham

Slogger, you have my sympathy! I spent the best part of 3 weeks trying to get rear brake pressure after a rebuild. There has been much written on here about the problem, and really, it's all true! It's (almost certainly) air in the system. The problem is that with the brake in situ, there are many trap points, and the master cylinder doesn't shift much fluid with each stroke. The result is that each stroke moves the bubbles, but they never get over the high points before you have chance to make another stroke, so they simple stay put. What did I do to cure it? I used a huge bucket full of patience! Take the whole system off the bike and hang it from some point. I used a point on my garage ceiling so I could hold the master in the vice and therefore pump it. It didn't seem to matter if I forced with a syringe, or pumped through (I think this is because the system is spoiled by TINY amounts of air and as such whichever way you fill it, you still need to bleed out the tiny bubbles). When I had the system hanging I'd tap it from time to time and keep rotating it so the trap points where moved. I think it was in this position for about a week with me tapping and pumping every evening! It's worth pumping using a rod of some sort in the m/c rather than the pedal as you get a longer stroke. Don't pump too slowly or the air doesn't shift, but resist the temptation as you get frustrated (which I'm sure you already have!) to pump away like a maniac as this causes the fluid to cavitate (froth up) and you'll make it worse. Patience my friend, it WILL firm up eventually! Graham

It's clearly absolutely knackered and no use whatsoever. At

Can you chaps keep it down a bit? ;-) Happy new year fellas.

Glad you got to them before it was too late. Guys, we all need to keep our eyes open; there have been 2 thefts from club members in the last few weeks; one in Irchester, Northants and another in Biggleswade in Bedfordshire. We all need to be extremely vigilant. Let's not be paranoid, but if you think you've been followed home after a trial, get the numbers, take pictures on your phone, and lock the dog to your bike! (Or Loonal's missus as she's clearly a match for thieving gets...) Also, let's not fuel the trade. If you're buying a bike that's suspiciously cheap, don't turn a blind eye. Ask questions. It may be a bargain to you, but that may be someone else's bike that they can now not afford to replace. Let's also keep our eyes open on Ebay for bikes we know turning up; you never know, the thieving classes are not known for thier brains. And one other thing; be careful. The cops are not my favourite organisation right now, but I'll not go into that here. Suffice to say they like to have crimes they can solve as unsolved ones look bad. They stand very little chance of catching an experienced bike thief. However, if you get caught standing over their bloodied, ruined body holding a weapon of choice, they have crime and criminal (you) in front of them in one easily closed package. Let's not all become criminals here! Graham

Tricky this, isn't it? I know the rider and he probably would have come second if he'd been riding a wheely bin. He's an excelent rider and rides all manner of bikes; usually on the hard route. It was interesting that the bike that won the even was a Fantic 300. From what I recall back in the day, the 300 was a far better engine than the Ty Mono engine that I never really got on with! I can see the point though; it can all get a bit serious when chasing the last few percent that may mean a championship win, but the basic understanding of the class seems to be good to me. Is a 'modern' cotswold really that much better than an 'old' Fantic 300? Maybe, but the best riders will always be up the sharp end. Back to the question; I started on Fantics and still love how they ride. But I'm hopeless so a 1972 Cd185 with broken mudguards is all I need! Graham

I'd buy from that bloke. Anyone with a good sharp sense of humour occupies the higher echelons of human society. Just my opinion!