tony27

Contact John Cane at www.tytrials.co.uk , he has the spindle & nut listed. I've dealt with him a few times from the other side of the world & like a lot of others on here I can't speak highly enough of him, probably has the best selection of parts for TYs in the world

I don't see any wheels in any of the photos, do you have them? Luckily all twinshock ty175 & 250s use the same wheels & brakes etc so you should be able to source them if needed off us ebay fairly easily The weld is a really strange place, would expect to see clutch cover damage as well if it was caused be impact Be aware that all the engine covers are magnesium & need special care when welding, make sure you get a good layer of paint on them to prevent corrosion Looks like you got a really good base to start with & shouldn't have too big a job to get it tidied up & running. John Cane at tytrials in the uk is great to deal with & stocks a lot of parts, the various ebays are great for finding the little things that he doesn't have

The reason the top riders use the term race is translation, closest word they can come up with that has a meaning like contest

A close look of the vid says that's exactly what happens, land on the rear brake then a flick of the clutch on the upward body movement. Not something I'll ever get the timing for though

Marquez has never ridden there, only motogp class race at Laguna with the other classes having 1 round less Cal's performances so far this year should be worthy of some upgrades from Yamaha but I'm not holding my breath due to the head of Yamaha stating that the tech3 bikes were going to stay as satellite bikes without the latest factory updates

Probably not, Beta normally have a hub unique to themselves. Most of the other brands wheels fit but it will need to come from a bike with the inboard rear caliper rather than mounted above the swingarm

How many broken swing arms could you count in that video?

Not all silicones produce acid during curing, engine sealing types don't as they're made for sealing aluminium rocker boxes etc. Sometimes a new rim tape has no effect, even the newer type with built in stem. 1 of my rims has some patches where the anodizing has gone giving pitting inside the groove & using engine sealant is the only way to seal the wheel short of buying a new rim

1) No 2) Yes although some tubeless type tyres won't stay fully seated at low pressures on tube type rims 3) Duct tape can be used if needed in a hurry 4) Tubeless rim tapes are 3 or 4 times thicker & wider

When I ran the standard dellorto on my 290 I thought I ran a 36 pilot but just looking having a look at the carb showed me that it was a 30, the 36 must be in the box of jets. Main jet was a 124. I haven't run with the dellorto for years, would be from before alcohol got added to our fuel. My suggestion is to fit a 36 like Cope says & see if you end up with more range of adjustment

Running avgas in the new tank with no return of tank growth, haven't tried the old tank back in the frame since it's been sitting empty after replacement The more I think about sherco tanks which are probably made by acerbis the more I come back to nylon's attraction of water, when I was still working as a toolmaker it was well known just how much nylon grew through moisture absorbtion esp in the first 24hrs after moulding. The ethanol has a water base/attracts water which is probably the nylon tanks swelling over time

If my memory serves me correctly I had a pair of KT250 rear wheels for my 350 back in the 90s, neither wheel was standard when I bought it

You will struggle to find 1 for an A model but there is a manual by cycleserv for the B model on the cover which is what I have, quite often listed on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-Workshop-Manual-TY250-Trials-1974-1975-1976-1977-1978-Service-Repair-/360685551067?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item53fa88bddb&vxp=mtr

Crank seal can be done without splitting cases or removing from frame

Check your oil level, sounds like crank seal to me

Try bleeding the system, if you get air trapped in the wrong place the fan won't go, think of what happens to your temp gauge in the car if the water level drops, it climbs until the sensor is uncovered then drops

All the usual things should be checked like play in the rear suspension. Being an 06 there are 2 things to check for in particular, #1 is whether the shock still works as they seemed to have issues that year, #2 check for cracks above the radiator, Neo had a thread about his cracking & it turns out it wasn't the only bike to do it If the price is good you shouldn't have any issues that can't be fixed fairly easily, a linkage kit from all balls/moose racing isn't that dear & is cheaper than buying all the parts separately from sherco

That was what I found when I did mine a few months ago, had the importer surprised when he saw me at a 6day at the start of the month, couldn't believe how quiet & tidy my 9 year old bike was especially as it's done huge hours & only had 1 piston kit fitted since new Comparing how the new rubber dampers feel compared to the old ones explains why the clutch gets noisy, the old ones are quite inflexible & have shrunk which is where the play & noise comes from Very cheap way to make a noisy motor quiet

Most 4rts are loud, seems they're like Harley's & get all the restrictions removed from the pipe at the first service. There don't seem to be many still in use at trials over here now which is good for keeping venues, just like in mx the extra noise that carries further from a 4 stroke brings unwanted attention & complaints from neighbours which costs venues The Ossa seems to be as reliable as any of the other bikes so far, only issues I've heard of locally have come from the riders leaving the bikes idling on the stand while walking the section & they've fallen over & revved until seizing which is a owner fault not the bikes. First year ran a weird bush arrangement in the rear wheel instead of bearings, can be modified to take bearings which our importer did to all the bikes here not long after selling them Some people have had issues with starting but that should have been sorted by now with map upgrades & the battery pack, main thing in my experience is to keep your hand away from the throttle when kicking, make sure to push down on the kickstart to engage things before giving it a good strong kick as well

Checked to carb I took off mine when I fitted the oko & second groove from the bottom off the 4 is how I ran it, will have to wait until tomorrow if you want to know the rest of the settings as I'm off to work all night shortly

Quite easy, look in the blogs on splatshop full a step by step rundown of whats involved.

Trying Ipone box2 oil at the moment , so far I haven't really noticed the clutch but yesterday's trial wasn't set very hard due to forecast weather although there was a section with full lock turns between trees at the top of a bank which would have been where the clutch would have been noticed

I think a large part of very few people buying Xispas was the perception of it being a cheap chinese knock off of a sherco & the lack of quality that comes with it being chinese. The biggest reason for trials bikes having higher prices is the small number of bikes produced to spread development costs over, why do you think none of the big 5 make trials bikes anymore apart from the 4rt which hasn't had any real updates in years if there have even been any built Here in New Zealand the cost of a new trials bike is close to the cost of a mx bike except for the 4rt & possibly jotagas but then we also don't have teams of manufacturer paid riders either, all the top riders pay for their own bikes etc so the importers don't have to build that into the cost of bikes to the rest of us

That's definitely a broken shaft then, I honestly believe from having broken or twisted a couple since I started riding shercos in 2000 that the shaft has been designed with a weak spot just behind the pawl that is meant to fail rather than damage the gearbox etc Quick run down of what's involved Drain fluids, coolant is easiest to do by removing waterpump cover which you'll end up doing anyway Remove kickstart & brake lever Remove clutch cover Remove complete clutch, will give you a chance to check the condition of all the parts, if your basket is notched a new 1 is about 40odd quid for all the parts needed to rebuild it which also makes your motor quieter Behind the clutch you'll find the pawl part of the selector shaft, remove that & swap the springs over onto your new selector, slide the new shaft back into place with the spring on the back locating over the pin Reassembly is simply reversal of taking it apart Shouldn't take much more than a couple of hours unless you're replacing the clutch basket & the only part you'll need other than the selector shaft is a new clutch cover gasket Hope that puts your mind at ease as far as how small a job replacement is

As long as the piston isn't fully pushed in it does work to a point although I'm not sure about doing it at the rear. Cable tieing the clutch & brake level partially back to the bars overnight is a commonly used trick which does work so trying it at the back is worth a try