tony27

Thanks David, I did suspect that was how it should sit but thought there had to have been something I was missing. Hopefully I should be able to finish putting the motor back together on thursday

I also wonder if the kickstart is partially engaging going on the video. The later clutch is certainly better until the rubbers shrink/get hard & then it gets noisier, with what you said that you paid for your bike it may be a bit more than you want to spend. How bad was the damage to the gears, I've seen the high spots o f where a ball bearing got into the primary drive gears stoned off as short term fix & it worked well, could be worth trying Looking at the front end of your bike someone has fitted later forks which have no adjustment but are better forks with the mudguard mounts part of the main casting rather than seperate

Have started assembling the motor but cant work out how the spring that sits around the actuator sits, the square end obviously fits over the lever but where does the round end go? My manual doesn't have a clear shot of how it should be Can anyone take me a photo of their bike to show the setup?

Had 1 of the akront flanged rims dropped in my lap last week along with the short lefthand threaded spokes & nipples to give to a wheelbuilder to lace onto my hub, should be interesting to see how it comes out I couldn't believe how hard it was to get the tubeless tyre of the standard rim

Pretty sure that the clutch side wouldn't work, from memory the ty250 has a unique gasket & cover, below the kickstart is basically a straight line

It might pay to ask in the beta section on ratio, 50:1 is probably too much with good oil eg shercos run 70-80:1 on synthetics, Ossa recommends 100+:1 in their bikes

In theory the wider 2.15 rim will give a flatter tyre footprint than the 1.85 due to the beads being further apart

Must of lost the others Seriously, the Beta importer here is a good friend-actually owns the TY250C that I ride sometimes & he reckons the bad reputation the stators got came from was a large batch ordered from somewhere in eastern europe that wasn't specced right, the factory had no choice but to use them up as quickly as possible. I'm pretty sure the newer bikes don't suffer from the same problems & that the replacement stators are good as well

The weird part about dying stators is that a fix came out for betas at one stage that involved fit a leonelli ignition in place of the original, the only sherco stators that I know of failing have all been leonelli ones

I have a pair, they're pretty simple inside. Parts were easily gotten from the states including manual but the trials type don't come up for sale very often Would have to agree on how they work, they felt quite firmly sprung with not much damping from memory or it may have been the other way around, didn't seem to move much after the initial movement & really didn't help with grip etc This is the best place to get parts & info from, Thor has a really reputation & is great to deal with http://ltthor.home.comcast.net/~ltthor/forsale.html

If you really want to see whats going on in the float bowl then easiest thing is to buy a oko clear float bowl if your bike is running a keihin which I suspect your bike is http://www.ebay.com/itm/270876397516?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Have run 1 on my bike for a year or so & it's been worth every cent, just ordered another couple for another bike & a mate's beta factory

Have come across another puzzle when stripping the motor. The parts lists show a shim of .3/.4mm between the main bearing & seal on the clutch side of the crank, my guess is it spaces out the primary gear to a set amount. I didn't find 1 in there & wonder what effect not having 1 fitted will have Any thoughts?

Very tidy, is it riveted & sealed to the inner guard like on the 250?

A Beta dealer saying another brand has electrical problems, that's almost like a gas gas dealer saying another brand has a weak gearbox The leonelli stators had a few problems when they first changed over from the ducati electronica ignition but that was years ago & sounds to have been sorted once the dual curve ignition came along Buying a brand new bike like you're looking at is 1 way of minimising the possiblity of problems

I would suspect it's a Olle, the Sachs out of my Jarvis rep looks the same except for the colour of the body which is quite a lot darker. Talk to Chris at splatshop about having it serviced/rebuilt, they will probably need to fit a valve to the body for regassing it

Handling? That's a term not used in america when talking about cars

Not been greased properly for quite a while? Will freeze in the cases & be a major to remove if not done from time to time, not a big job to do every 6 months or so when doing the linkage bearings. Work out how many times you regrease the linkages bearings in 6 months & make it a rule to regrease the swingarm after the same number eg. every 6 regreases of the linkage bearings is a major service & the swingarm gets dropped at the same time

Looks like the ball will be quite a bit bigger than 5mm, the hole in the end of the mainshaft looks closer to 8-10mm. Will measure the hole size & fit the nearest size ball that I have, if it was too small the pushrod wouldn't make contact properly

The adjuster was wound way in & has a flat worn on the outside, looks like the ball that sits between the push rod & the top hat piece that pushes on the pressure plate was missing, does anyone know what size it should be? The cam is fairly flat with a small mark on 1 side which I'm picking will be out of the way when there is a ball back in the system taking up the slack & the adjuster won't be wound in as far. Not sure about the flat on the adjuster but I'll have a look to see if a new 1 is available Looks like TYtrials has the adjuster so I'll put another order in this week

Looks like a leg off the gearchange return spring possibly, part number RB/M110

Quick look on cmsnl says same part number

Sounds like the rule on using later parts on pre65 bikes is no cheap parts from twinshocks, has to be off brand new bikes Glad we don't run the class much over here & those sort of bikes wouldn't have any class to run in

Would have thought standard TY spokes would fit, want to do the same thing to my 250. What rim did you use?

If the kit is what I think it is then yes the pegs are moved backwards & slightly down & the wider pegs are much kinder on your feet

The twisting occurs in the slot behind the pawl rather than along the main part of the shaft, that's where the shaft I snapped broke I believe it has been designed like that to prevent internal gearbox damage etc, the pawl even stays where it is when this happens