tony27

Hair drier is hot enough to do the job without damaging the plastic unlike a paint stripping gun

It's possible from the sound of what you're saying that you don't have enough play in the brake rod & the piston isn't returning fully which partially blocks the port, a quick way to check if that's the case is to remove the brake pedal & try forcing the fluid through again. Have you had the master cylinder apart, there is a spring above the piston which should return the piston. If you take the rubber boot off the piston should be resting against the circlip, is something worth checking out The way I managed to bleed mine was to work from the opposite end, I pulled the reservoir off & fitted the syringe to the line in place of it, took a couple of syringe fulls of fluid pumped through with the nipple closed off when refilling to get a good pedal after exhausting the other methods I had available

Possibly 2000 model 250 going off the frame number on my Jarvis rep although are you sure of the Y in the sequence, my bike is VNBS129TR4A012873 & left the factory an hour before their summer holiday in 04

Not sure on picking year other than being able to see the bike to see suspension, brakes etc, never really studied the frame number enough to see if there is year included in the number Engine size is easier, first part of engine number gives the size ie st25 is a 250, st29 is a 290 & st12 is a 125

Take the reservoir off & use a syringe to force fluid through the system with the nipple open, you may need to do a few times with the last time closing off the nipple as you keep pressure on. Was the only way I managed to do mine & it didn't take that long compared to trying the normal pumping of the lever method

When you mention the mx sidecover there is a thread on here about fitting that type of cover to a ty175, there is a little bit of minor work needed but it does work

Probably best to look at this from the pinned thread at the top, it doesn't do it step by step as it's for a general strip down but does go into doing the main bearings & seals while reassembling. Doing the main bearings with the later sealed bearings at the same time wouldn't be a bad idea It is possible to change the seals without splitting the cases though I've never done it due to needing to do the bearings at the same time http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/sherco_engine_teardown_and_assembly_manual.pdf

Short answer is no, at the top of the page are pinned downloadable manuals that will have all you should need

Easiest way to work out if the at/ct covers will work is check part numbers of gaskets, www.boats.net is pretty good for that as when you select a part it cross references to all models that it fits Heres a link for the gasket which says there are lots of bikes use the same gasket so you may be lucky http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-401-15451-00-00.html

Might be easier just to buy a new line & fit it to the new arm before fitting to the bike

The brake line is not easily removed from inside the swingarm, when I remove my swingarm for regreasing I take the whole brake system off the bike at the same time to avoid needing to disconnect the lines & go through the grief of trying to bleed the rear caliper

When ordering sherco parts you normally don't need the engine or frame number if you know the year, in general if the newer part fits older models then the part number stays the same & only the newer part is available Looking at the stand parts list shows only 1 number for the bracket, pivot bolt & screw, didn't check spring numbers, the actual stand lists both the old straight steel type & the newer shaped aluminium type Have a good look around Splatshops site & you'll see what I mean, should be a advertising link pop up on the home page etc at some stage for you to follow or go to www.splatshop.co.uk/

There are 3 tapped holes on the underside of the swingarm towards the pivot on the brake side

Shouldn't need either, part number is 1480 for the stand, s132 for the bracket which is meant to be common to all years. The alloy arm isn't cheap but is meant to fit from 2008 on. Looking on splatshop's site gives a total for the whole 2008 assembly as costing about 125pounds

You will need the cylinder base gasket, probably shouldn't need the big end bearing as a bad 1 doesn't make the growling noise you describe. You can get around needing the clutch tool if you have access to a air powered rattle gun Replacing the kickstart spring while you're doing this is a good idea, would be a good time to strip & rebuild the waterpump as well which hopefully will only involve bearings & seals Have a look at the pinned manuals at the top of the page to find a step by step guide, doing the main bearings is a fairly simple job that should be able to be done by most people in a day

You'll find most of the top guys riding extreme enduro are former trials riders, Taddy had a world ranking from memory, Chris Birch & Rory Mead from NZ both got to the second highest level of trials as teenagers before taking up enduros. It would probably be hard to find any of the top 10 who don't have a trials background

Sounds like you've found the x-lites big downfall, very easily damaged sidewalls. Lots of reports of the same thing happening which doesn't occur on the x11 Interesting idea on a repair, will be interested in the results

What condition is your top fork bush in, if there is wear then the oil has an easier path to the seal & any movement of the leg puts more pressure on 1 side of the seal while releasing pressure on the other. Basically new seals won't help if the fork leg is flopping around inside the seal

Sounds like the bush that goes over the shaft that the clutch spins on is too short, might pay to compare it with the 1 out of your old motor, if you sit the clutch basket on a flat surface & fit the bush it should be slightly proud of the hole which gives you the clearance to stop binding

The lack of prices is a issue, asked them via email last week about a set of spokes for the akront flanged rim onto a ty hub & was shocked to be told 200pounds. Wouldn't have bothered asking if I knew that was going to be the answer

I got sent a 2013 lever for my Jarvis, it doesn't fit into the pipe the same as the original but does make starting easier, as a bonus it cost less than the earlier type as well

If you like flat trackers then check out some of the bike that the aussies have been importing to vintage race, this is 1 of the guys yetman triumphs but if you look through the topic you'll see others. Would give you some ideas of what bikes have been used http://forum.ozvmx.com/index.php?topic=29931.0 This bike is the holy grail to a lot of guys, limited build 750 Yamaha motor http://forum.ozvmx.com/index.php?topic=28219.0

Renthal 6inch trials bars should be the best bet, modern trials bikes normally come with a 5 or 5.5inch rise. BVM-moto list the 6inch rise with the part code RE6.0-768silver, my guess is the 768 is the bend with the 6.0 standing foe the rise & silver is the colour

Roughly 67cc, go either 65 or 70 whichever is easiest for you to measure

Have heard of superglue being used to fill in grooves, the high spots at the edge of the groove need removing as that's what will be damaging the seals. New tubes aren't cheap but you may be able to pick up a set of forks out of a stripped bike on ebay If you look at the bushes & any of the black coating on the inside is gone then the bushes are shot, the bush actually forms the first barrier to oil escaping, worn bushes are more likely to have leaking new seals than new bushes & old seals together. Hop that makes sense