tony27

Pretty sure DID is correct, the corrosion is fairly normal as well, I've seen wheels that the rim has basically dissolved from the tube side out

With what a basket costs I wouldn't bother filing the fingers, from memory new basket, rivets & rubber dampers is only about £40 & splatshop has a step by step guide to doing the job. Bike runs quieter & clutch operates like a new 1 afterwards

I want 1, fat chance of it happening though

Shouldn't need a inline filter, the dellorto fitted standard has 1 behind the cover where the fuel line goes in

Should be okay to lift the guard & use a strip of duct tape across the top of the airbox opening if you're talking about the older bikes with the tank & airbox in the conventional local Haven't had much to do with the later bikes unfortunately

A few years ago I was going trail riding with a few mates on our trials bikes & 1 guy had his bike die just as we were setting off after warming up, next week when we saw him he confessed to leaving a rag in the airbox after cleaning filter & it had blocked off the carb

It's a trials bike thing

Measure to distance between the bolt holes of your intake manifold, it looks like a standard mikuni spigot mount manifold & should be available easily if it is. Possibly a I-VM28-200-1 which is 60mm between centres or a VM30-288-1 which is 57.2mm between centres http://www.sudco.com/flange.html

While you are doing the timing it's worth taking the small clutch cover off & pull the clutch plates out to free them up otherwise you'll need get the bike moving before getting it into gear then stand on the brake for a bit. It's a well known problem with a few brands of trials bikes when left sitting for a couple of weeks or so

Probably okay to keep with the points ignition but eventually the source coils could fail. I just find it strange that the only way to adjust the timing is by altering the gap I have an electrexworks electronic ignition in my bike & it is adjustable but you set it in the middle of the slots to start with & adjust it so that the original timing marks line up at full advance, the tytrials ignition is adjustable although it is set before sending

It's not normal, do you have any freeplay at the lever?

Have a look on the splatshop site at the airbox diagram, the bits won't be that expensive & getting the airbox off will be much easier

If there is a gap between the exhaust & rubber strip on the airbox then something is bent. Do you have the small deflector fitted at the front of the airbox that stops stuff coming up from the front? I hot glued a section of screen door mesh onto the filter retainer to keep seeds etc out & it also works for lumps of dirt & mud

Upper bearing should be replaceable as well, on the older shocks from memory they are the same bearing & I'd expect them still to be the same

Not much sidewall flex & hard to keep sealed on some rims, not really a serious tyre as reflected in the price

Try inmotion uk, pretty sure I've seen them listing them on ebay

Full synthetic at 70-80:1 is a good starting point, running more oil than that just saturates the packing in the non-repackable muffler The standard headlight runs a tiny bulb more like what you'd find as an indicator bulb in a speedometer so it's not really any use Most important maintenance tasks are air filter check & clean if needed every ride, grease the linkage bearings every couple of months if not riding much water, more often if you do, gearbox oil every 4-6 events Generally they're pretty easy to live with

Believe it or not the price of a ohlins shock from splatshop is very close to the price of the standard olle, at the moment the olle is 50pounds cheaper but normally it's actually about the same amount dearer http://www.splatshop.co.uk/performance-parts/suspension.html?limit=15

The econo probably should have a tubeless rim just the older type that uses a thick rim tape to seal rather than the rim with a flange for the 2 piece spokes. Chances are that the previous owner had problems with sealing the spokes & ended up fitting a tube

You mean this 1? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwaJwaTyOB4

I use the complete linkage kit in my Jarvis rep & a couple of the other local guys do on my recommendation but I haven't used the spherical bearing due to having a TRP shock in it, I just used the standard spacers. The spacers can be hard to get out but should be a fairly easy fit into the bearing

Vapour blasting is the best way to get a finish exactly as it came out of the mould, I had the cylinder & head on my YZ465 done a couple of seasons ago & it still looks like new. Beadblasting leaves a surface that is very prone to showing fingerprints etc but vapour blasting doesn't seem to

Disconnect the plug from the stator & look on the splatshop site for the resistance readings, think you'll find it in the listing for reconditioned stators

Check the number stamped on it but changing to a larger size shouldn't affect the jetting as it really only allows fuel to enter the float chamber faster to prevent fuel starvation at sustained high revs & the float valve will still work like normal just quicker if that makes sense

Inmotion on ebay so they should be able to online as well