tony27

KTM & Beta have ties, was told at 1 stage that Beta was given a hand with the design of their 4t trials bike as at the time the enduros still ran KTM motors. I could see KTM making a decent trials bike, they don't miss the mark very often & seem to have more free thinkers in the company than others as shown by the freerides

How does the hose between the 2 vents look, is it clear with a notch at the base? Certainly sounds like a lack of fuel flow if it starts after a couple of minutes, dodgy stator normally takes closer to 30 minutes for it to cool down enough for spark to return

I use a Cycleserv manual for the B model for my C, seems to be the only aftermarket manual printed for them

Yamaha seems to have had there own model of carb made by mikuni at the time, the model that was used on the next models was called vm26ss. I think a off the shelf 26mm should fit just change the jets to match what is listed as standard below, personally I'd only change pilot & main jets to start with & go from there as often the slide, needle & needle jet are close enough http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-ty250c-1976_model8576/partslist/%21SERVIC1.html#results There are a few places online that list readily set up carbs for TYs, sometimes they are listed on eBay

Stay away from 06 bikes, they were probably sherco's low point, the frame was the first year of the black frames & the radiator was lifted which cut the steering lock, seemed to be a few problems with frames cracking around the lower radiator mount & rear shocks that dumped all the oil out & aren't really worth rebuilding

I owned a 99 for a couple of years after stepping off a gas gas that was a few years old, probably dropped between 5 & 10kgs in 1 go which was very noticeable. Some very early ones were reputed to have problems with main bearings spinning although I never saw 1 in this part of the world The basic engine didn't change for another 8-9 years so you can fit top ends from later models or turn it into a 290 by changing barrel, piston & head, carb & exhaust are same for both engine sizes The plastics are not available new anymore & unfortunately only fit 99 & 2000 models as they changed frame & exhaust/airbox design in 2001 My understanding of the bike situation in the states is less to choose from so secondhand prices are generally higher, total bikes sold in a year could be less than sold by a dealer in the UK I think try both if possible & pick the better bike, use it to get used to the sport again & chances are it will last you for quite a few years

See how there is a hole in the bashplate inboard of the gearlever, chances are that is for access to the drain bolt which looks like it would be a grubscrew to keep it flush with the cases

Readings have been posted in quite a few threads, this link will explain exactly how to test the stator. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/stator-repair.html The symptoms you describe are very much indicative of a faulty charge coil on the stator that has the insulation failing

Some people do never adapt, I'm guessing frustration sets in after a while if you're quite a way behind where you beforehand

The piece you're showing is the extension / shroud for the emulsion tube / needle jet, it shouldn't come out. You asked a question earlier about which way up it should sit, not easy to measure but mine only sticks up between 1 & 2 mm so I think you may have refitted it upside down

Definitely have a 45 pilot fitted, airscrew is at around 1.5 turns out, main 115. Throttle response is very smooth & as quick as you could want

52 seems a bit big for the pilot in a keihin as fitted to the Cabestany or does yours have a dellorto VHST? I'll check what is fitted to the Oko on my Jarvis rep, pretty sure it's more like 42-45 which is what splatshop recommend in the keihins they supply 33 pilot is what is run in round slide dellortos, most end up around 35-36 which allows the fuel screw to be further out giving more adjustment. I'll check where my flatslide has the airscrew set as well

If the top end is off the newer pro type motor then I very much doubt it will fit, needs to be the same generation Not 100% sure that there is a capacity difference between the 270 & 280

Manual for TY says 7.0 - 7.5m-kg which is approximately 50 - 54 ft-lb so I'd say anywhere from 50-55 ft-lb will be fine

Had forgotten about that 1 David, that is a remove the clutch job though. I can hopefully scan the photo out of my B manual & post it up if needed

Broken choke jet could very well be the problem, when the o-ring on it gets damaged it affects the jetting due to fuel bypassing it Out of interest how different was the jetting numbers in the 2 carbs?

From memory the detent is under the motor, possible it has had sludge build up in the spring under the piston. Lie it on the clutch side & pull it out, check, clean & refit & see if that helps. By lying it on the clutch side you shouldn't lose any oil

I seriously doubt it, they look to be the old Italian built Husqvarna's rebranded & from what has been said elsewhere the factory is also the old Husqvarna buildings

For some reason the jetting on trials bikes doesn't really seem to change between different engine sizes, 250 & 270 probably ran the same settings standard seeing as the bottom ends are the same, the 200 is only a 125 with a bigger bore - 164cc from memory, so jetting for that carb would be closer to the 125 Is it possible that some of the ignition components have been mixed up? Because you say it ran fine for 10 or so hours before this problem I'm leaning towards something in the ignition breaking down, first thing to try with a brand new plug gapped correctly is run it in a darkened garage to see if there is any cracks in the cap or lead jumping to earth, I had similar problems a few years ago & it turned out that the cap had a tiny crack that was arcing to the fan motor which was only visible in the dark After making sure there are no cracks in the lead or cap then you are going to need to find someone with the same bike who is prepared to allow you to swap ignition parts around to see if changing any part cures the problem, only do 1 part at a time & if no improvement put your part back on & move onto the next

Ouch

Nice looking Pursang, wish we had some of those being run over here

Couldn't find my manual after a quick look but nut is the same part number as fitted to my YZ465 & the figure for that is 56 ft-lb, 80Nm

Not just the same supplier but the same friction plates, I know this from comparing the plates with rev3 plates at the Beta importers 1 of the times I was there working on my ty250 twinshock that he owns I think you've bought a lemon, best you crate it up & send it to me for disposal . Seriously you've gotten a nice bike but not 1 I'd recommend to a beginner There isn't a full manual available for shercos, torque figures can normally be found in the parts diagrams which are able to be downloaded from the sherco site. Ryan Young Products has a good set of manuals on his site for different parts of the bike, should be links pinned to the top of this section Had a look on sherco site & here is a manual for 2011 http://www.sherco.com/manuels.html#2011 2011 parts book, there is a small separate book for the Cabestany that is in addition to the standard bike http://www.sherco.com/spare_parks.html#2011

Apart from the colour which should be 2 tone yellow & white it looks pretty standard. Very easy to get parts for, always seems to be plenty of A model 250s being parted out on US ebay

Turn the tap off when transporting & have a look in the blog section of splatshop's site to find their recommendation on setting the float height