tony27

Remove the fitting where the fuel line enters the carb & check that the strainer isn't blocked. It does sound like a venting problem, make sure that the piece of clear hose that loops under the body to both vents has a notch out of it at the lowest point, it looks wrong but is required to stop the float bowl pressurising I doubt your problem is the stator as normally if it's failing it will take 1/4 hour or so before it will start again

Domino are what I use with standard cables, wouldn't use anything else

Primary drive cover & the gear on the end of the crankshaft need to be removed to replace the crank seal. If you can get your new seal out with your fingernails as you say & it doesn't make contact with the shaft you've fitted it over you may get away with not needing to buy another, you will need to replace the gasket behind the primary drive cover though Don't worry about the seal on your gearbox bearing, not having it fitted won't adversely affect it, I have the feeling that the seal is only fitted to 1 side of the bearing

Could pay to have the carb put through an ultrasonic cleaning bath, if it's not been run regularly then the internal passages can clog. Fairly cheap to do & removes any dried up fuel from the passages & jets

Probably 1 of the last big steps occurred when Sherco entered the market in 99 with a significantly smaller/narrower motor than anything else available, compare the size of 1 with the same age gas gas or montesa & the difference is quite noticeable

The fully sealed bearings are good quality SKF bearings running polymide cages which are used for noise reduction, the quality of them would be equal to or better than most mx bikes The unsealed mains seem to wear & start rumbling without any problems occurring in the big end bearing/conrod Main problem is the owners allowing moisture into the motor either through not drying the motor out properly after a drowning or getting water into the airbox during cleaning but why the big end is unaffected is possibly due to the fuel mixture aiming directly at the conrod as it enters rather than needing to get outside of the crankshaft to lubricate the main bearings

That's a 250 Jarvis Replica which were basically preproduction 05s, I have a 290 which is the only bike I've ever owned from new. Front guard should be blue Places to check are play in the linkage bearings & shock has damping, applies to any secondhand bike Check that the gear lever doesn't hit the bashplate, means the shaft has been twisted but is easy to change & quite cheap. A short lever from the later models is good as it's tucked away a bit more & allows easy removal of the ignition cover to let it dry after washing Have a look at the back of the ignition cover, the covers with built in sprocket covers warp over time the water & mud fire off the chain into the ignition There isn't any real problem areas with that generation bike, these were the last of the chrome framed bikes. Stators do fail from time to time but no more than any other brand & certainly less than Betas

Stop them breeding should be enough to start with

Can't say I've ever really gotten over it, I hate big rocks especially those that have nowhere to foot if it goes wrong or a very small place to place the front wheel without finding a hole. Give me a tree root infested bank to launch up any day, coming back down sometimes is a different story

Black mark at about 2 o'clock is the series of dots that I assume you were looking for with the timing. Not really needed if you have the key fitted as the marks are only for if you're altering the timing, fit the stator with the mark as shown & the flywheel with the key in place & you should be fine

Photos of flywheel when keyway is at the top Standard position for timing of stator plate Hope that helps This is the link that explains how adjusting timing alters the performance, for most of us standard works fine http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/sherco_ignition_timing_guide.pdf

Give me a couple of hours to pull the bike out & get the cover & flywheel off

Never really paid much attention to markings on flywheel compared to keyway. Timing is generally done using the mark on the edge of the stator plate to the edge of the rightside stator plate mount, have a look in the pinned manuals, same basic setup no matter the year & there is a short explanation of how moving it affects performance

The standard seat is available from Sammy Miller Products which is what I use, not sure what the design you have shown is called

In Australia the rumour about Stoner returning on a Ducati seems to have some credibility. It has been said that he has been unhappy that he ended up testing the RCV roadbike rather than developing the racebike - personally I think Honda made a mistake in not letting him sub for Danni Pedrosa when he had the arm pump surgery. The jammed throttle on the Suzuka 8 hour bike also didn't help Something tells me if he does return to MotoGP he will be on or very near the pace of the aliens very quickly, he's actually not that old & the amount of skill he possesses won't have disappeared. Would make for a far more interesting title race

Spark eroder/EDM is the way to go if you want a perfect fit on the spline but not many of you will have access to 1 like I used to. I made some very trick parts for 1 of my bikes when I was still working as a toolmaker

Personally I would lace in a 21" front & 18" rear as that is what the bike was designed around originally & the tyres are much better. The tyres fitted to the small wheel bikes don't grip very well, they're more like hard plastic than the flexible rubber of the full sized bikes

Move the clip on the needle up 1 position & try it out, stuttering is normally associated with being too rich which is what the position of the clip compared to standard can be doing, small job & you'll know if there's any improvement pretty quickly

Should be a pinned post on here about testing the stator otherwise splatshop's site has the readings you need listed in the listing for stators

Must say something about Rossi fans that they're looking at gay porn to come up with the images in the first place

What is the reason for the odd sized wheels, are the wheels off a big wheel 80? If you lace in trials sized 21" & 18" rims you'll actually be able to get tyres that work & it may solve some of the geometry problems I don't know if I'd want to go shorter on the wheelbase, trials bike steer quick anyway & get nervous if trail ridden at speed

If the bearings & seals measure 20mm then I'd go for the HK1520-2rs instead

Loose bearing diameter on the crankshaft can be fixed by having the worn area built up with hard chrome & reground, is something that I've seen photos of being done on rare mx bike crankshafts

If you're looking at a late 90s Gas Gas then a 321 will be perfect, last of the old motors with the stronger normal gearbox. Pretty much bulletproof & I know of a few guys who kept theirs when they upgraded just for our trials bike only trail rides because they handle the abuse better than the newer bikes & hold a line better up a rocky creek First of the big bores was the JT350 in 95 from memory & measured 327cc, 96 was called the JTR370 which was either 1mm bigger bore or stroke & about 335cc, they went back to the older size after that which lasted until sometime around 2000 Hope that's of some help

What colour is the frame, if chrome it's definitely 05 or earlier. Forks changed to having damping adjustment & a cartridge insert in 1 side instead of the simple forks run from 01-05