tony27

The shaft can get very noticeable polished grooves where the seals run before they leak, I'd say it's more likely that the seal is the problem with the contact surface being twisted during installation

If you wait a day or so I'll see if I can find the original out of my bike, I made a aluminium version for my wheel when I increased the axle diameter TY Trials has the spacer & flange for 6.24 https://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/prod_4340640-89-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Spacer-Flange-TY250-Twinshock.html Speedo drive is in the brake plate, no spacers required to remove it or are you thinking of the wheel centralising spacer? Have a look at the wheel page on the site, they probably have all the parts that you possibly need

Ouch. Lucky the tooth didn't get into any of the other gears, would have made a major mess

No need to take clutch cover off. When all the air is out no more bubbles come to the top, I've heard of guys using a cable tie to keep the lever pulled back to the bars overnight but have never needed to do that

No, they use the cast lug on the fork leg to locate the brake

From memory like a lot of bikes it's a 1 piece coil/CDI unit. Can you put up a photo of the coil to confirm

Later YZ & TT brakes & hubs should fit, these are the conical type hubs. I have heard of the 80/81 250/465 twin leading shoe brake plates being used but they are hard to find & cost a mint if you can find them I've got a set of the same forks which I may end up having to use as my C model forks have play & keep blowing seals

I'd go with whatever the original amount was, should be on the original TY clutch cover

That's the way I've always bled the clutch, just make sure you have a bit of freeplay in the adjuster before you do it so that the piston returns properly & clears the hole May take you 1/4 hour but it is definitely the easiest way

Get the #114 main jet if possible, in theory colder temps should require larger jets as the air is denser. The smaller main jet may have been fitted when used in competition as the throttle is not open for long especially when compared to using on the road Biggest problem you may have is finding parts for the TK carb as they aren't very common, the later models with Mikuni carbs are easier to get parts for as the jets are the still the same in new bikes

Worse case scenario is you have to get it drilled out. Try buying a 10mm hex bit that fits a socket set & use your longest bar - not ratchet when you apply the heat, if you can get the axle to turn but it still won't come out then it is stuck in the steel sleeves in the swingarm & you'll need them & probably all the suspension bearings as well

Very nice. Is the different looking brake pedal due to the lowered footpegs?

The manual I have is the Cycleserv B model one which works on both newer & older models. The 250 is not covered by any of the major players from what I've seen & is definitely less popular than the 175 Having lived in Wellington & owned a Beta you should have met John Lawton the Beta importer, my TY is actually owned by him with me being allowed to do whatever I like to it like aluminium axles with the front replicating modern bikes. There is a lot of great riding in the Wellington region, I've spent a lot of time in the hills behind Paraparaumu riding both trials & trail riding with a bunch of other trials riders on our bikes

My 250C had the pump removed when I got it, the drive was still there & was all that was required to keep the cover sealed. I removed the drive & fitted a blanking plate kit from TY Trials when I rebuilt the bottom end as there was no point in leaving it there If memory is correct the oil line connects directly to the cylinder on the side of the intake unlike the later models which used mikuni carbs & had the line connected at the front end of the carb

Depends on what you're riding, if tight then a blast up a bank then normally I'd pick a point where I can change up before launching although different bikes do change whether that is needed. Some sections require a few changes

Have a check through some of the older threads, from memory hot exhaust is a symptom of the timing moved too far in 1 direction. Copemech should be able to confirm which way it is out

Going off the part number & description on boats.net/partzilla the dimensions look to be 19x28x0.3, fit a lot of different models so should be available from yamaha nz, even the cover is listed as fitting up to 2013 model xt250 Part number 401-22127-00

Beta used to have bicycle type units mounted into the top of the fuel tank, they were hardwired from the rear wheel

For what the basket is worth I wouldn't bother filing the fingers, it's very hard to take the exact same amount off each 1 I replaced my basket along with the rubber dampers last year, total cost was under 40 pound. Splatshop have a step by step guide in their blog section on how to replace the parts As a bonus you should end up with a quieter motor after the dampers are replaced These are the parts to order to do it http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-clutch-basket.html http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-clutch-basket-rubber-cushions.html http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-clutch-basket-securing-rivets.html

Splatshop has a great reputation worldwide, very helpful when you need advice as well If you think you need a new barrel they can get it replated for you or you can use a later model 1

Have never owned a bike with the slow throttle, quite a few bikes come with the white fast throttle tube standard

Have definitely seen a photo of him having the beer online in the days after his passing

Simple fix then, a lot cheaper than needing to strip motor down

Have always used domino, never broken 1

You also forget that all those parts are probably not legal for use in the states anyway