tony27

From what I remember Clauss Studios having either on their site or eBay listing if you sent them your boot they will take a pattern off it & then start listing them, first moulding is yours. What I had read said that the part didn't need to be perfect, I assume they tidy the part up & go from there I have 1 of their TY250 boots & it fits perfectly

I took the supplied seals off the bearings & only left the standard seal that sits below the lower bearing in place, that gave 1-2 turns more thread which is definitely better. I forgot to take photos but should be able to tomorrow while I'm reassembling the forks etc. Had the freshly rebuilt motor running for the first time in 5 or 6 years, took 4 half kicks which is better than expected, sounds very un-TY like with zero engine noise so I'm really looking forward to getting back on the bike

The squealing fan will be an intermittent thing if it's like mine, you'll be the 1 squealing if you have to replace the fan as they are fairly expensive. There are some japanese road bikes used the same fan motor etc but from memory the plug needs changing & the mounting holes opened up which are easy jobs

If you liked how the clutch behaved with the rock oil use that, a good light gear oil is generally what I use, lately has been either motorex from the local KTM dealer or they have been able to get me Ipone as used originally For a quick clutch some people use ATF which is also the cheapest option Whatever you use make sure it doesn't contain friction modifiers which most car oils have as it isn't designed for wet clutches

Had a better look today & compared it with a 175 with the kit already installed, turns out I was wrong about the lower seal showing. I think the top of the headstock has been attacked with a grinder which is why the bearing shell sits proud. The 175 didn't have the seal fitted to the upper bearing which which gives a bit more thread & I had assumed the side of the lock nut with the taper went down which does make the amount of thread on the shaft appear too little if fitted that way I may leave out the seal that comes with the lower bearing when I dry assemble it after the frame is painted during the week just to see how much extra thread that gives I'll try & take a few photos as that happens & of the finished bike early next week

Is it normal for the tapered steering head bearings to have very little thread engagement? I have 1 of the kits including the original seal that sits on the bottom yoke under the bearing & the seal is completely visible below the steering head, a fair amount of the top bearing case sits proud of the steering head & the only way the nut fits is upside down with only about 2 threads doing anything This is the same kit as sold by TY Trials

Hi Jackman, I'll pass on a few little tips that will make your bike easier to look after etc Try & find 1 of the later short gear levers, when I bought mine it was referred to as the race lever but I think they became standard a few years later. The shorter lever makes taking the ignition cover off easier & is tucked in tighter to the motor. I also took the ignition cover with built in sprocket guard off & replaced it with a 06 or 07 cover without the guard, unfortunately the covers with the guard warp at the back so you need to keep removing them & using silicon sealer to help keep water & mud out of the magneto They are a very simple motor to rebuild, worst part is actually getting it out of the frame. Don't remove the head from the cylinder, you need to replace the o-rings if you do that & it;s not something that needs to happen The links pinned at the top of the Sherco page should have the downloadable manuals from Ryan Young Products site in the US, these are pretty good at explaining what to do including step by step photos so most people should be able to do a main bearing replacement in a day. When you replace your mains get the newer sealed type bearing & viton crank seals which do last longer, the viton seals are needed for modern gas with alcohol in it. I had the original tank grow enough that the rear guard didn't clip under the frame any more & it was a tight squeeze between the frame rails, I put that down to the ethanol in our fuel which guys have mentioned as a problem worldwide, I only run avgas in the new tank & haven't had problems since, as a bonus the fuel doesn't need to be used up in a month

From memory 10 on the front is standard & works well for me & is standard, I surprise people when they see what can be gotten up in first gear but still you second & third in sections often enough to know that it isn't overgeared Front changes the gearing more than the back does & saves buying a longer chain although depending on how new your's is you may need a half link for it to fit, Sherco around that era definitely had a half link fitted from new The 290s of that era aren't overly snappy, dropping to a 10 tooth will only put it back to how it was new

Looking at the front brake I'd say a 82 on YZ brake was used when 80/81 is what is really needed. The tab for holding the brake was moved 45deg which gives this problem

Don't cut the wires, should be able to trace where they connect & plug the lanyard switch into the same spots

Can't say I've seen that sort of damage to a trials bike impeller before. That's some nice work you've done with your replacement

I've managed to misplace the sprocket side axle spacer on my 250c & the bike is over an hour away so measuring the swingarm gap isn't going to be an option this week. Does anyone have their rear wheel out & can give me the sizing to turn up a new 1? Due to wear in the hub the bearing isn't the standard diameters but the width is the same as what came out, normally the spacer would stay in the wheel but I must have knocked it out at some stage

I see it's a Jarvis replica like mine, these were the last that they made. The tank & guard graphics aren't available anymore so I'd suggest getting rid of the rear bolts & running cable ties to allow the guard to unclip in the case of a step off. It was 1 of the first things I did when I got mine new & it has definitely saved me quite a bit of money

Can't say I've ever noticed much play on my 290, maybe pull the outside circlip & slide the sprocket out so it is over the part of the shaft that doesn't have the sprocket on it normally & see if the play is still there. I suspect there is something wrong with the sprocket rather than the shaft

I've read of a water & molasses mix being used in Australia for rust removal, as non toxic as you'll ever get but does take a bit of time. Have a look on the ozvmx forum & you should find a few different threads on this problem

Which of these parts are you meaning, the needle clip or what is called the spring guide? https://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/prod_935653-2325-Slide-Needle-Clip-Spring-Guide-TY125-TY175.html The needle clip is pretty common & should be available from Yamaha, the spring guide/seat is listed as NLA on Partzilla. Personally if you're doing a full carb rebuild I'd buy the full kit from TYTrials as your needle could be worn

That makes sense & would be the only true comparison When I get back in the country I will be stripping my forks to have bushes fitted to remove the play in them. Will be the perfect time to do damper rods & springs. I've been running a 17mm aluminium axle threaded into the base like modern forks for a while & I expect the springs & damper rods would make them as good as they can be without trying to stuff modern forks inside them

How would you rate them in comparison to the set with the emulators in David? I'm looking at fitting both the damper rods & springs into mine once Steve gives me a shipping price to New Zealand

The flatslides carburate better at low openings due to the slide being smooth on the bottom.

Quite possible for it to be the HT lead, 1 of the times I thought I had a dying stator it turned out to be a crack shorting directly to the head. My ignition is the same type & age Have you talked to the guys at splatshop, they'll be able to give you things to check

The rings that came with my TY piston are the same, goes behind the lower ring to help give more sealing pressure

No real club as such but a few riders from memory, get in contact with PeterB, he lives in Auckland & is the former gas gas importer

What part of the country are you in Willie?

Reading what Feetupfun has written I wouldn't bother about replacing the case if the shifting hasn't been affected & there aren't any leaks. Looking at Partzilla's listing the B & C model used the same cases which are unique to TY175s so I would say any TY175 case should be the same if you decide you really want to change cases

If it hasn't been leaking then you're probably safe to use as is Getting it welded should involve stripping the motor fully & takes some serious skill to do it properly without causing distortion. Not familiar with the 175 motor so I don't know about the steel cap, a photo would help to confirm that welding isn't needed