tony27

I'll drag my homogulation headlight out tomorrow arvo when I wake up & see what the bulb in that is

01 on is basically the same. Look on ebay for a blue head light & you should be okay. The 99 & 2000 model lights are actually usable, has a real bulb in it & will fit The road legal kit which mine came with should work but are butt ugly

If you're unsure of the condition of the big end etc it's best to give it to someone who knows what they're looking for, ideally a trials dealer if possible. A engine reconditioner will be able to accurately measure the bore for you I find splatshop's site great for ordering parts with how suggestions of other parts needed come up at the bottom. I would suggest replace the waterpump seals & bearings while the engine is apart, check the shaft for grooves as well Do not remove the head from the cylinder if you haven't already, it's not necessary for doing the piston & will save you needing to buy new o-rings which are 1 use only

Are you sure you don' have a 290 rather than 250, pretty sure the 250 is 70mm bore. Complete 290 top end is a straight swap Where are you measuring piston size? Standard clearance is .03/.04mm measured just above the rear cutout

Sealed is what the later bikes came out with standard, Sherco normally keeps the same part number for upgraded parts I have the sealed bearings in my 04 Jarvis & they seem to have lasted longer

Have been having issues with fork seals not sealing for very long, inspected the chrome & there are no nicks or rust etc on them The leg that has the biggest problem definitely has noticeable movement when extended so it looks like the top of the slider is worn I'm thinking that I'll need top have them bored & bushes fitted but so far I haven't found a 34mm fork that uses bushes that I can use & the coated bushes that can be bought from bearing suppliers are either 32mm or 35mm inside diameter Any suggestions of a fork that I've overlooked or somewhere that may be able to help

Look in the posted links above for the manual on doing the main bearings, hardest part is getting the engine out. Make sure you replace the crank seals with viton versions Describing how to check the big end for wear is a bit hard but basically hold the crank steady & push & pull on the rod to feel whether there is play up & down rather than side to side. Piston wear really needs proper measuring equipment but if it has gouges or large amount of discoloration below the rings replacement is definitely needed. Piston kits aren't cheap, find out what Beta charges for a 270 piston kit as they are the exact same part made by vertex & may be cheaper How far from splatshop are you? Chris etc are a wealth of knowledge & should be able to supply everything you need, I've done my bearings before with parts from them & I live on the other side of the world

Rebuild kits are plentiful on eBay & come with all sorts of bits Your overflow problems could be caused by the tube inside fouling the floats, it's quite tricky to take the bowl off without catching anything, the keihin is just as bad. A clear float bowl can be helpful at times & last time I looked was only about a tenner

What brand? Rear view like that is hard to get too much detail from but it does look very Beta like with built in tank & left side clutch

If you're talking motor then pretty much all, even the sidecovers will fit but then it won't look like a D model motor Rest of the bike is much the same story

Big difference between the Sherco & Beta is that the Beta has 1 more gear which means 5th is the first of the between section gears unlike on Shercos Normally needs to be something big to require 3rd on the non stop era bikes

Grooved float jet needle generally causes flooding. Most likely cause of no fuel getting to plug is gummed up pilot jet, if you're worried it doesn't cost that much to replace every jet in your carb

Have 1 of their rear mufflers, it uses perforated tubing inside fibreglass packing so it breathes well. Not particularly loud either which is a bonus

Mid-atlantic trials does a ready jetted Oko for $110us. They say 26mm for stock exhaust & airbox, 28mm for free flowing exhaust & opened up airbox I've been using a Oko on my Sherco for years & haven't had any problems with it

Nastiest bike I see in that list is the Gas Gas 280, they were always aimed at experts & were really snappy My 290 is a pussy cat in comparison & definitely a lot smoother than the last 320 I tried out

This is the extent of the work I did to the port to make it fit, I marked around 40mm into the port & started gently grinding there on both sides & checked often to see how far the reed would fit in. After getting the reed to slide in with the holes lining up I blended the step out to the edge of the sleeve so there is no sudden change in shape. It will be a while before I get to try the motor out as it looks like I'm going to need to get the fork sliders machined to fit a bush at the top to get rid of the play I can feel & help keep oil in them. Motor will be a lot more powerful than it was as it was so worn that I could turn it over by grabbing the end of the crank after removing the flywheel, main bearings were shot as well. I think I may have put up a couple of photos of the work I did to the clutch cover to remove all signs of the oil pump during the rebuild

If it's an 06 check for frame cracks around the radiator, other than that they are no different to any other used bike in what to look for

Finally got around to spending some quality time in the garage with a Dremel. The V-force reed is quite a bit wider than the standard TY block & only pushes in about 8mm, doing some measuring showed that at the tips the intake needs approximately 1mm per side ground out, reality is that the port has draft which is needed for casting.

Can't find timing marks on my flywheel so I have to assume they were on the external band that was previously removed from it. Should be easy enough to add marks in the correct place if needed

Works performance is back in business according to a post on another forum with a new owner, name may be getting changed slightly

This is what my instructions say, no need for a degree figure as marks should line up when it fires Standard timing is set 3.1mm +/- 0.15mm

I've got 1 of their ignitions in mine, pretty sure the instructions were to set it up mid slot to start with & fine tune to suit if needed Because you use the original flywheel the marks should line up at the standard firing point. I can look in about half an hour & let you know what the standard firing point is & check my instructions

It's not possible to anneal those gaskets, best thing to do is replace it if it leaks The rubber piece you're holding is homemade, not sure where it fits but the slot may give you a clue

I changed the axle clamping system to what modern bikes run ie. no head sticking out on the clamp side fork & the solid fork threaded to hold the axle. From memory axle diameter became 17mm My speedo drive has the remains of the cut off speedo cable, I assume the cables fuse to the drive fairly quickly when exposed to water. The drive gear on the brake plate was long gone when I got the bike Biggest weight saving by ratio was making a aluminium steering stem to take tapered bearings, the stem weighs less than half the weight of the original steel 1 & uses a aluminium nut instead the special steel bolt

The shaft can get very noticeable polished grooves where the seals run before they leak, I'd say it's more likely that the seal is the problem with the contact surface being twisted during installation