tony27

Have only had anything to do with a 05 which at the time the owner got me to add a 200g weight to the outside of the flywheel. Helped with starting & preventing stalling without affecting the throttle response. Worth doing if you can The rider of the bike has gone on to progress up the grades & reckons it was perfect to get him started in the sport helped with skills development

Personally if the basket has grooves I'd just replace it, they are really cheap & splatshop has a post in their blog on the website showing how to do it which isn't a hard job I replaced mine a couple of years ago & the new rubber dampers made the motor sound like new again

According to Partzilla's site the ball size is 3/16. I replaced the pushrod in my 250 when I rebuilt it as there was some wear on the end & a new 1 was cheap. I can't tell you what else uses the same pushrod to give you an idea of cost as the part description comes up as the ball as well

TYTrials sells genuine front brake cables & Venhill clutch cables which is what I use & that would be my recommendation as the easiest thing to do Normally I get my order in about a week & I'm a lot further away from the UK than you are

Black spade connector plugs into CDI unit, other wire connects to frame for earthing

This is what my 250 top yoke looks like. I cut the handlebar clamps off & machined the underside of them flat then machined the stumps on the yoke mainly flat before drilling tapping sized holes that lined the clamps up so that the stump & clamp were aligned. I tapped the holes in the clamp right through continuing into the yoke so I could screw both together, an old piece of handlebar was used to keep things in line during welding. The rear of the stump had a gap which was filled in quite early on & there was a substantial relief used to give good weld penetration. When the welding was finished the lower part of the original clamp stuck out behind the new top part & was filed down as part of the blending that I did. I still have the final sanding to tidy everything up & remove the casting marks before I get the yokes vapourblasted You should be able to pick up another top yoke on ebay fairly cheaply & do this yourself without spending the kind of money that the billet ones cost

That looks like half a 2 pot caliper used as the slave cylinder rather than the dedicated slave cylinders that modern bikes use

I bought a replacement for my damaged 1 off a ebay seller in the states named vintage-trials, he generally has a couple listed but they're not the cheapest

There has definitely been some work done in the footpeg area of your bike, have another look at the back in the day photo & you'll see how much higher they are. On my 350 in the 90s I just cut the mounts & lowered the peg mounts to roughly the same position as yours are at using a piece of solid bar inside the 2 pieces of the mounting bracket. Once done it wasn't noticeable as different apart from the height, someone has added a filler back to the frame so the bracket looks flat at the base rather than the peg mount hanging down Your bike should be noticeably easier to balance than a bike with the pegs in the normal position & easier on the back as you end up standing more upright like on a new bike No idea about a different top clamp being available, you may have to do like I have on my 250C & cut the mounts off, machine both parts square & weld them back on. It's an easy job if you have the gear & in my case moved the bars to roughly over the steering stem rather than behind it

I assume it has a Keihin carb, look on splatshop's site in the blog section & you'll find a step by step guide on getting the float height set right http://www.splatshop.co.uk/blog/2012/12/setting-the-float-height-on-the-keihin-pwk-28/

I've got ARC levers on my Jarvis, been on there for about 10 years now. I didn't like the where the pivot point was on the clutch lever as it didn't line up with the pushrod very well so I bushed & redrilled the hole to a better position & it's been great It is possible to bend the lever if you get it down your boot & the master cylinder is too tight. They will bend back with a small amount of heat & gentle pressure in a vice

"A" model runs oil feed into intake port on barrel like most bikes of the time instead of into the carb like the later models running mikuni carbs Andy

Jerky clutch definitely isn't right, you should be able to control rear wheel slip through the clutch lever when your ability increases The basket could have notches worn in it, personally it's not worth filing them out, a new basket, rivets & rubber dampers are cheap & splatshop has a article in the blog on their site about replacing them. Over time the rubber dampers go hard as well which leads to rattling when the clutch is out. I replaced the basket etc on my Jarvis & it sounds & acts like a new clutch now It's a quick job to check the basket condition, lay the bike on it's side & remove the brake pedal & small cover then the pressure plate & clutch plates & look at where the plates make contact with the basket. There shouldn't be any noticeable grooves. When you reassemble the clutch the outer plate sits in the shallow groove in the basket between the main grooves, there is also a mark on the pressure plate & inner hub that should be lined up ATF has the reputation of giving a very quick acting clutch due to it's thinness so maybe try a different oil if the basket looks okay

40/11 is basically halfway. You half both fronts already so just get your 40 & try it would be my suggestion

Ask the nutters from New Mexico who ride them, think there's 4 or more being ridden by guys who probably started riding trials on 1

If you're going through wheel bearings that often I'd be checking that the centre spacer is the right length & you're not squashing the bearings together when you tighten the axle One thing i dont like about it : it EATS front wheel bearings changing em every 6 hours, the rears have never been changed and theres still no play in em. If they were still making them i would probably buy a new one now that i understand them and how they work/ride etc.

Is your fan working? Should kick in after 5 or so minutes of running

Your explanation of where you have the adjusters set sounds wrong, the plunger adjuster is too far in meaning the port never gets fully uncovered. There should be a small amount of lever movement before you feel any pressure It is possible for a top rider to put notches in the basket of a bike in a year but I've never had that problem on any that I've bought

I saw last night just how bad it really was, won't be making that mistake again Chris Evans has zero on screen personality, spent a bit of time looking for the strings & humming the thunderbirds theme then looked for the ventriloquist with his hand where the sun don't shine. Can't see him caring though with the amount the BBC is meant to be paying him

Between 70 & 80 to 1 with good synthetic oil is what most of us run, keeps the muffler from getting saturated with excess oil

Are you like the rest of us & finding your riding gear shrinks while you're not wearing it?

No that's not how it should sound. I was expecting to hear rumbling main bearings but that sounds more ominous, I'm picking it was put away with some water sitting in the motor or airbox at some stage

Keihin carbs are very temperamental, for some reason the oko look a likes aren't as much

I'd be thinking something has gone wrong with the selector mechanism, Lineaway's comment about a broken pin on the end of the drum would be where I'd look first

Fuel cap isn't venting properly, try a run where you know it stops either without the cap or it not fully seated Stator coil problems normally take at least 15 minutes to get a spark back after they get hot