tony27

If it's like most bikes use 2 spade terminals with a short piece of wire, unplug the thermoswitch & fit the wire in place of it to make the fan run fulltime. It's something I've carried for years when trail riding on my trials bike & most of the other guys do the same to get us home if the thermoswitch fails

That's very tidy, looks like you picked up a good bike

The 01 was a different frame to the first 2 years, I seem to remember that the frame changed again in 02 so the tank & guard may not fit. The exhaust fits as I changed mine to the later type when it started getting louder & had a few dents, not sure if the airbox changes or not Probably best to change over the tank, airbox, muffler & rear guard to see if they match up before going any further. Engine etc should be a straight swap as the cases stayed the same for a long time

Have seen them on ebay before so it could be worth keeping an eye out

Not sure if there is 1 available for the A model but give this guy a try, bought a owners manual for my yz465h & it's a good copy of the original Yamaha manual in both English & French http://www.e-classicbike.com/ Next best will be look on ebay for a cycleserv manual for the 75 B model which is what I use for my C model, B model is closer to A model than C in looks

Are you using the standard switchblock still or have you removed it & the wiring for the lights? If you are running a kill button & the short race loom then have a look through the following link for installation instructions in photo form which will show you which wire goes where http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/ryp_wiring_installation.pdf

Let me have a look at mine when I get home in the morning, pretty sure I'm plugged into a wire coming off the coil with other going to earth screw beside coil etc Have a photo of the wiring in my Photobucket account but haven't worked out how to post from my phone

No need to split cases, look a couple of threads down for explanation

Check the o-ring on the air screw as a possibility for a air leak, may have dried out & shrunk from lack of use. Have never had that sort of issue with the Oko I've been using on my Sherco for the last 5 years but from stripping mine down I have noticed the o-ring on the airscrew. Some of the rebuild kits available on ebay have the o-ring equipped airscrew & some have 1 similar to the keihin which doesn't use a o-ring

Sounds like you need a new cable then or that the pivot bushing is worn

You say your friend has the same bike, see if you can substitute his carb for a quick test to see if it makes a difference, will help eliminate the carb as a possible cause & costs nothing

Just be careful sliding the seal onto the shaft that you don't catch an edge or get the seals tipped over in the housing as you fit them, haven't done a set in ages but it is something most people can manage if they take their time Personally I'd do the ignition side seal first & see if that fixes the issues & worry about the clutch side when you replace your main bearings over winter which is also a fairly easy job which you will have seen from the downloadable manuals. Remember to look where the stator plate sits before you remove it, there should be a mark that lines up with the edge of the top back mounting post but it may have been adjusted slightly to alter the power delivery

Easy job to do seals Remove the ignition cover, flywheel & stator for the ignition side. Use a self tapping/wood screw into the seal a couple of turns only then work the seal out using vice grips Drain the coolant & remove the clutch cover & primary drive gear from the crank as well as key. Use the same technique to remove the seal To replace you need something to use as a seal driver that will go around the crank, a piece of plastic tubing is ideal if you can find the right size. Add a little silicon grease between the lips of the seals before gently tapping them home A new clutch cover gasket will be needed but chances are it's only the ignition side that needs doing as you don't mention excessive smoke

I balanced on the bike when my daughter was home from school & measured between the lower yoke & seal, came out to approximately 125mm/5 inches, daughter jumped on & it was 150mm/6 inches, really made me feel heavy I'd be interested to know what your measurement is with the front wheel off the ground I'll try to get the spacer out of 1 fork tomorrow & measure it's length for you

I'd say nowhere near the quality of the originals, likely to be a lot thinner

According to splatshop's site the springs are the same for the 125 through to 320, not very expensive from what I can see. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-fork-spring-01-05.html

Photos definitely show it to be a 05 model Forks are made by paioli & to work on are the same as in the pinned manual at the top of the page Haven't looked at the parts list but the 125 may have softer springs than the bigger bikes, I've had my Jarvis from new & weigh more than you but don't have issues with the front being soft

Seeing as it's listed as discontinued you'll need to find a signwriter who will copy your original in thick vinyl, someone who does graphics for MX bikes is your best bet. I had to do similar for the seat graphic on my Jarvis until Chris at Splatshop was able to find the part numbers which aren't listed in Sherco's online parts books. If yours is in pieces you may be able to find a guard with okay sticker on ebay to copy My suggestion to preserve your guard is run cable ties instead of the screws at the rear, they pop off quite easily & it only takes a couple of minutes to loosen the front capscrew & slide the lip back under the frame then fit new ties. Took me about 6 years to damage my first rear guard & I'd had some pretty big crashes by then including backwards off the top of a 8 foot high rock which wrecked the bars

How is your cable if you're still getting lots of lever movement? If all your adjustment is getting used up move the lever on the brake plate 1 spline further from the bars, the angle of lever to the cable when the brakes are working has an effect on the amount of power, too far from being at a right angle & your leverage applied drops Your description of the brake cam going over centre means your shoes must have been very worn, have never seen anything like that happen before

Splatshop

The article I read around a month ago basically said not enough mainstream manufacturers were using them on their roadbikes etc for them to be able to keep competitive, basically a numbers game. The MTB side had been shifted to Taiwan a number of years ago but it looks like that is closing as well

Take the shoes out & have a look at how much of the lining is actually making contact with the hub when applied, clean the surface of them & apply marker pen then reinstall & use the brake a couple of times then remove & see where the marker has been removed Ideally the lining should make contact over it's full surface for maximum power, this is where having an old set of shoes relined with thicker material machined to the same size as your hubs is an advantage as then the lining matches the curve perfectly, also allows you to get a softer more powerful compound of friction material used

Quite nicely fabricated, one off set maybe?

Definitely bent, had something similar on the last gas gas I owned. Was bent at the start of the thread where the mounting eye ended when done up. Would possibly be able to be straightened but you'd need access to a lathe to cut an accurate internal thread in a decent sized bar that screwed on in place of the eye & then would need to make a set of soft jaws that would fully support the rest of the shaft while you slowly apply pressure to the bar. That shock in the lower photo looks exactly like original shock out of my 05 sherco

Parallel yokes do shorten the wheelbase if the originals were not parallel like on TYs, parallel yokes will also steepen the angle by a certain amount depending on how much the originals were offset by