tony27

1 of the best sites I've come across for cross referencing Yamaha part numbers is www.boats.net , whenever you open up a part it lists all models that the part fits Unfortunately there aren't many models that cross over for the shaft, mainly YZ125s of the same age http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-525-15660-01-00.html

Has been tried here in NZ using PDAs, was talked about being trialled at a UK round which may have been world round. Allows live updated scoring on a screen back at HQ. The biggest problem is cell phone coverage being a bit patchy in the kind of areas we normally use, the PDAs have been ditched from what I understand now & punch cards used as before that the riders carry & hand in at the end of each lap which are then entered & shown on a screen The system was developed by a couple of riders, 1 who rode in the UK for a few years in the late 80s & early 90s

Main problem with the TK carb is parts availability

Article I read said the mtb stuff had been built in Taiwan for quite some time, seems the motorcycle market is where they have been struggling

More likely these as this model uses same gasket for the reed block so the screw holes will line up & no hole to plug for the balance tubes http://yambits.co.uk/rd350-inlet-rubbers-p-1927.html

It is fine to run 2 split links, I think that is what my sherco runs either side of the half link that is needed to get the standard odd number of links in the chain. I always run my split links to the inside, makes finding it a little harder but the tyre protects the clip from getting knocked off

I've had a set of ARC levers for about 10 years now which these look to be patterned off except for the 2 holes for the pushrod & have never had any problems, am I correct in saying that the span adjuster hits the pushrod when folding it forward?

02 was when the caliper shifted inboard for the 250 & 290, the 125 & 200 changed after that. Think that was when the number of spokes dropped from 36 to 32 as well

Is that Debbie Evans? Even I have heard that name before in this part of the world

In front of the reed block, marginally increases the effective crankcase volume

Funny you should compare kicking a sherco & gas gas, in my experience the sherco has the far stronger mechanism internally but yes I have snapped 1 sherco lever & bent another in 10 years, the gas gas kickstart with the large knuckle is a stronger design

The Beta 270 which is what you're looking at traditionally is used by the top level riders which should give you an idea of what it's like, as long as you keep away from the really high revs which would be most of the time the big difference that is noticeable is more torque down low than the 250 Have a look at this for what to check for specifically http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/39651-going-to-look-at-09-beta-evo-290-tomorrow-please-help/

Some of what you found will have come from spacing the reed block back, I haven't tried a boost bottle on my YZ465 which is easily done using the next years part off a YZ490 but have used a spacer on the reed block & there is a small difference to how it carburates

No production rule, the montesas have been pure prototype is the very near past. No other manufacturer has the money to do this

Have seen something similar on a beta years ago, started the correct way around then when the throttle was blipped the motor gave a cough & started running backwards & ran perfectly well to the point that the rider could ride backwards a fair distance. Problem turned out to be the cdi

Just the sort of bike Dadof2 has been saying would be the savior of the sport. I certainly won't be waiting in line for 1

If it's broken off at the CDI unit then you will have to replace the unit, hard to remember if where the wires come out is plastic or resin, if it's resin it may be possible to chip it away enough to get a new wire soldered on & covered back over with araldite or similar. Could be worth trying as the worst that could happen would be you need a new unit

It could be worth sending an old bellows hose to csm restoration parts to have replicated with slightly thicker walls, they are always looking for rubber parts to reproduce http://www.claussstudios.com/index.html

The way to get the best performance out of any drum brake is to get thick linings made & have them turned to the same size as the hub. You need to space the shoes out at the cam by the same amount, 1mm is good, then mount the backplate in a lathe & take light cuts until you get to the required size. When refitted to the wheel minus the spacers you will have full contact over the whole lining length & only a small amount of movement before the brake starts working

Was a good race made even better but no Hondas near the podium, both factory Ducatis looked to have made big strides in the off season & didn't fade like normal as the race went on. Could be a slightly more interesting season

That's some hard core pornography there, wonder what the going rate is for a kidney?

My Oko with the clear bowl has the fuel level quite a bit lower than that, how are the floats adjusted compared to how splatshop shows? You may have damage on the Viton tip of the float needle causing it to not seal properly if the floats are set to their recommendation & the level is still this high

If you have a decent sized milling machine you should be able to the clean up the braking surface with the wheel assembled using the sprocket to mount off, I've done the same to a damaged bearing housing

Spray soapy water around the carb etc while it's running & if the revs drop momentarily then you've found your leak

If the throttle slide is snapping back with an audible thunk then I'd be thinking ignition side crank seal or possibly leak at the manifold. Which carb is he running?