tony27

That's 1 pretty looking bike, almost enough for me to look at getting 1 if I was able to ride more often

If the noise had of been before the clutch was pulled in I would have said the rubber dampers between the gear & clutch basket had gone hard & shrunk, fairly cheap to redo & makes the motor quiet again I suggest removing the small cover over the clutch & checking that everything is tight, there is a small possibility that the bearing that the clutch runs on has worn out which would show up as rock in the basket which you would be able to see with the pressure plate & clutch plates removed Chris from Splatshop may be able to give you some suggestions of other possibilities

What you are proposing is a very good way to kill trials, which manufacturer other than Honda would be able to completely retool to meet your new specs & then sell no spares as you're saying everything has to be either unbreakable or repaired? Any parts they do sell would have to be at hideous prices, have you ever looked at what mx & enduro spares cost & the sales volumes are multiple times higher Cost of new bikes would also have to increase as the manufacturers don't make much on the cost of a new bike at the moment & have to rely on selling spares to remain ecomonically viable Certain parts of what you would like are possible like thicker bashplates & tubing for the frames, change of material for spindles although then you'll get people complaining about having to cut their swingarms out due to lack of maintainence/grease caused seizures. Going backwards in technology for brakes would hit a lot of resistance, the 4 piston calipers are cheap, I don't think the old 2 piston fronts were any cheaper & weren't anywhere near as good Marzocchi is the only manufacturer that uses aluminium fork tubes unless the new 4rt has them so you aren't going to accomplish much there Basically a lot of your issues seem to come from 1 manufacturer who aren't likely to see any reason to spend huge amounts of money changing their successful bikes to make them perform worse than what they make at the moment Biggest issue I still see is noisy 4 strokes, while manufacturers are allowed to make exhaust systems with easily removed restrictors & baffles to get around noise limits knowing full well that they will be removed by the owners as soon as possible or fit aftermarket exhausts with minimal silencing riding areas will continue to be lost. All major events should be using noise meters like they have to in mx & road racing if we hope to keep riding

Depends on the bike but normally the breather tube comes out the centre of the fuel cap. The tube should be the same size as your fuel line so fitting should be fairly easy

I use an All Balls/Moose racing kit #22-1008 which also contains seals, easily & cheaply sourced. Assuming you are in the UK the kit is about 20quid on ebay Bearing numbers are 25MI-G3YI for the top bearing, 30YMI-G8YI for the lower bearing, the G may be a 4 as it's not that distinct. For the longevity of your bearings you really need the seals but I can't help you with the numbers of them

I find these sprockets interesting with the cleaning grooves not on every tooth like most do have From my experience on cnc machining I can give you a quick run down of how they are done. Assuming the maker has multiple machines which a decent production shop will then a sheet will be cut into basic pieces, either squares or strips then transferred to the first machine which will drill the holes, machine the recesses for the bolts & cut the centre out, the recessed pattern can also be done at the same time which appears to have been done with a chamfer cutter, cleaning grooves done at the same time . Machining time with a modern high speed machine would be in the region of 1 minute Next the part machined blanks are transferred to the next machine on a sub-plate which locates & holds the parts by the bolt holes & machined centre, from here the taper at the tip of the teeth is machined & then the outside & teeth profile done in 1 pass, using a strip rather than separate blanks will cut done on tool changes which speeds up machining time Final machine change will have each sprocket mounted on a sub plate using the bolt recesses as location to finish off the chamfering of the back, clamps will need moving between doing the centre & bolt holes as 1 operation with the teeth chamfer as a second operation Total machining time would be around 5 minutes with each sprocket being exactly the same which cannot be said the same as far as a pressing goes, lasers & waterjet cutters normally have a sharp start & finish point which is undesirable for accurate fit on hubs & will produce a tight spot in the chain run. The best part of using the cnc's for teeth etc is that by changing which program is used is number of teeth changes instantly, centres etc are the same story with each variation of centre & bolt position being saved as a program with the manufacturers name being it's title

How many sprockets available for trials bikes have you seen stamped out on a press, Talon as used standard by some manufacturers are fully machined & knowing how they're made they won't take long to turn a full sheet of alloy into multiple sprockets

How many million worth there?

Did some further looking into the v-force reed block & found that the RD's have the same part number for the reed block as TY250 twinshocks, that lead me to a thread on 2 stroke world about fitting v-force reeds into RD400s. There is 2 different versions of the V382 for YZ85s, the V382A which has an offset hole & the V382S-A which is a v-force 3i set up & has the central hole that would be required to need no modifications, if you got the V382A with the offset hole then part number AG462A is the part needed for the central hole. In the RD400 the inlet port has to be widened to allow fitment but hopefully the TY250 has a bit more space at the sides I'll be looking at getting the V382S-A set up in the near future

Looking at the video it looks like some serious caliper flex going on, are the bolts holding the 2 halves of the caliper together tightened up fully

The biggest issue I've had with the flanged rim is finding someone who can roll M4 threads onto spokes to match the threads in the nipples, the outer spokes are left hand thread so the nipples have both left & right hand threads in them. I asked a company in the UK about the cost for a set to fit my TY & quickly dropped the idea after being quoted 200 pounds

Hi Peter, if you want a manual for the 350 send me a PM of your postal address & I'll send down the photocopied 1 I used when I owned a 350 in the early nineties

Anyone who wishes for a return of the numbers of riders & bike sales of the 70s should look at overall sales figures of all bikes compared to then to see just how few new bikes are being sold in comparison Unfortunately trials doesn't really appeal to the average younger rider due to the discipline etc needed, most of the younger guys here in NZ who have been riding grew up with their fathers riding & it was natural for them to ride with them, now they're older have all taken up enduros etc & done rather well at it

You mean like this, not mine but was in my garage for a few days just after I got the yz465 behind it, I transported it for the owner to get some tuning work done when I was picking up my pre75 from getting ohlins shocks fitted to it

Alcohol laced fuel is the cause of your oversized soft tank. You'll have to replace it, the 07 tank is listed as only fitting that year & holds 2.8lt, 08 & 09 are the same part numbers so they will be interchangeable, not sure of their capacity

My spare wheel for the Jarvis which should the same from memory measures 28-29mm from the outside of the disc to the outermost edge of the rim depending on where I measure, is this the measurement you want? Disc thickness is 3mm which gets you close to the 23mm if you are going off the mounting surface for the disc

Woody, the magicals site I got to off Craig's & that had the damper rods shown along with the springs & tensioning fork caps. Would be very easy to spend some serious money of your forks with him Starting to seriously think of getting a set of his springs for the mono forks & fitting into my bike which could use some extra wheelbase as it's had the front end pulled in

My experience as well, the cost of the parts is so minor including the basket that most people could afford to replace rubbers & basket yearly if they felt like it. Cost of the parts including basket & the retainer plate which you shouldn't damage is about 40 quid plus postage, I changed the hub to the later version in my Jarvis & it still only came to about 100 quid http://www.splatshop.co.uk/checkout/cart/

The forks will be TY250A which was a 74 model, they're not really anything like the 80s mono forks which are leading axle I can't really compare them with other 70s forks as it's been a long time since I rode anything else & I never tried multiple brands of bikes on the same day. Better springs & damper rods are available from the magicals which should improve the action a lot, I'm tossing up on getting the parts for my forks or trying the mono forks I have along with the front wheel out of my yz465

Nice looking bike, think I have most of the parts to do the same to the front of my bike. What are the yokes off because I like the idea of the vertical handlebar mounts rather than the laid back type fitted standard to TYs The brake plate would be the hardest part to find after looking at the forks, it would only be from a YZ/IT465 or YZ250H & 83/84 YZ125K/L. I own a 81 YZ465H & the 490s & 82 onwards lugs are at 90deg to the fork leg unlike the 465 & TY forks

Gas Gas was meant to be developing a sidevalve motor back when 2strokes were going to be banned from WTC but I doubt it was very serious about it, as it turned out Beta didn't come out with the rev4 until quite a few years after the rule was meant to come into being & Gas Gas never made a production bike, Sherco built their 320 but it's never been a big seller & I read somewhere that the development costs for the motor got them close to the wall. Developing 4stroke motors for enduro bikes is a lot more cost effective due to volumes & I'm certain that the reason Gas Gas has bought the rights for the motors has nothing to do with trials but their enduro bike range instead The technology for the bearings & cylinders has existed for years, about 20 years ago 1 of the truck manufacturers was developing a full ceramic diesel motor, was very light & needed no cooling system. Biggest problem is expense

Leave the pads in place & use 2 screwdrivers between them to force the pistons back, if they aren't too far out they should push back fairly easily without tipping in the bores

Could be that your pads are getting worn enough that the pistons are staying out too much. I wouldn't try pumping the pistons out to lubricate them as you're more likely to end up tipping them when trying to push them back The way to see if the piston in the master is sticking is to remove the lever & rubber boot then have a look to see whether the piston is in contact with the circlip at the base of the master cylinder, give the piston a couple of strokes with a screwdriver to make sure it returns freely

Going on your description of the jet size & location the jets will be different shapes, the jet mounted in the float bowl will be round & the 1 that screws into the needle jet will be hexagonal, their numbering systems are different with 1 being diameter of the hole & the other being done on flow

The problem people have with their tanks including me isn't caused by the tanks being out of the frame, I struggled to get mine out. What happens is if you fuel contains alcohol like most does now the tanks swell, I run on a 50/50 mix of avgas & 91 octane which doesn't seem to contain alcohol & my new tank hasn't had any problems since although I haven't managed to do any riding in almost 6 months