tony27

The frame for my C model isn't here at the moment but from memory the mounts are moved down about 75mm which turned out to be almost exactly the same placing as a majesty, this wasn't done on purpose but happened when I got the seat rails level after the steering head had been steepened up by the previous rider. I don't know what the angle of the steering head is now but the wheelbase was quite a bit shorter than standard & keeping the front end down was a problem, I'm having a set of shedworks swingarm lengthening plates fitted at the moment to correct this

The bike is my 04 Jarvis Rep which in reality is a pre-production 05 290 in 04 colours with special graphics, the bike literally left the factory gates an hour before their summer holidays. The 1 bike I don't think I could ever sell without feeling like it was 1 of the children I'd sold Lewis, the problem isn't that there is no freeplay at the adjuster or that the clutch doesn't fully release rather that take up is rather sudden. Have tried adjusting the freeplay & moving the lever away from the bar to move where full release is with no real improvement - the lever is an ARC folding lever & the adjustment to move the lever away from the bar was made on the lever itself rather than on the master cylinder Apart from this issue the bike performed faultlessly for the 6 days & had the sherco importer amazed at how quiet the motor was & how tidy it still is for a 9 year old bike

When I replaced my rear master cylinder last year the only way that worked for bleeding was to remove the reservoir & pump fluid through the system with the bleed nipple open until no more air came out. Seemed that there may have been a bubble sitting somewhere that needed to be forced out. We used an old Loctite gasket syringe to pump the brake fluid & closed the bleed nipple each time that the syringe was empty, took about 3 full syringes before we were happy enough to retry bleeding the system as per normal which then was very quick Hope that makes sense

I've been riding a 6day trial for the last 5days which is being run nonstop & it was pointed out that in tight turns I'm not very smooth, turns out that there seems to be quite a short engagement period making the clutch very hard to feather The basket & hub are both less than a month old so it's not caused by any notches. Oil was new before the start of the event & is silkolene light gear oil-haven't managed to find the oil recommended by Neo. Have tried quite a few different oils & ATF over the years with no real improvement Any ideas on what I need to be looking at when I get home in a couple of days?

I wonder if it has a dt360 engine fitted or possibly just the top end although I'm not sure whether that is possible

3mm sounds about normal, there ends up being a bit of sideways play as well

If the cylinder is on max oversize like you think it may pay to do some investigating of what is involved in the 200 conversion, someone will know whether it's just a bigger piston or resleeved to a larger size

Plating an iron liner won't improve the heat transfer as some people seem to think, cylinders that are plated from new are done directly to the aluminium. Personally I'd resleeve it & get it back to standard size which should give it another 35years of life

Sounds almost like you're describing an xblox type tensioner pad which I've never heard of having problems, it is possible to snap the screws off on any the designs though Is this the shape block you meant http://www.splatshop.co.uk/x-blok-clubman-chain-tensioner-pad.html

Camera angle makes it look like he crossed his own lines a few times as well, not sure those sections were really set to be ridden exactly how the non stop rules are & they certainly weren't marked that way looking at how many stops(from FIM instructional video) that went unpenalised

Not 100% sure but I'd think you probably could although looking on the splatshop site the plug lead will be longer, don't think there is any change internally until the dual map ignitions came out

The Mitas has quite a stiff sidewall & that is why Feetupfun says it isn't any good for actual trials work unless you only ride dry grippy rocks with no loose stuff around

Before going to the expense of replating the cylinder Cope, check the clutch damper rubbers as when they go hard/shrink you end up with a rattle that is most noticeable at idle

Funny you should mention the sitting on the limiter before launching at the rock, seems to be the case in any of the other videos involving trials type riding of the freeride & of anytime you see a modern 4 stroke ridden offroad. Would have to wonder what the engine life is when treated like that Having ridden both the KTM engined Beta 450 & the early Sherco 450i in 2005/6 on decent length trailrides I would think they should suit, being a few years old now their asking price shouldn't be too high & neither is that much heavier than the latest models, both have well built engines & the best components available so they should have fared quite well as long as the previous owners have done the filters & oil regulary

Not always from the top end though, just did the clutch basket with new rubber dampers on mine & it's now completely noise free

Piston looks fine, rings maybe not going off the evidence of blowby below the bottom rings at the sides. Sometimes the rings lose their tension after a major hot moment such as a bike lying on its side revving until it starves of fuel, can remember NZ's top rider's 315 being like that when he first started riding due that happening lots in his first season What age is the bike, could be due them by now Agree that the key will be the issue, doesn't happen very often but the symptoms match

The lever moving up & down is how the adjustment works, the face that the pushrod contacts is tapered & by moving where it sits changes how far into the motor the pushrod is sitting. TYTrials has the adjuster in stock, I just bought 1 for mine Friction plate thickness should be between 2.7-3mm, almost sounds like yours must be more than that or the cable is stretching/breaking

My pleasure. They're fairly simple inside, I had to remake the bush at the top as they were worn which puts extra pressure on the seals. I had a local dealer regas them for me with nitrogen, from memory the pressure required was 200psi or so, figure is in the manual

When you've stopped moving & the engine is dead it makes the observers job really easy, how could anyone not say that was a stop therefore a 5 under the current rules? This is the biggest problem with non stop trials, lots of differences in how people judge a stop etc with no consistancy in marking. Only solution that would stop this is some form of sensor fitted to both wheels that trigger a light when rotation stops for more than a set time

41/11 is 3.73 to 1, 51/12 is 4.25 to 1. The higher the number the more revs are needed to move the same distance, hope that makes sense

Thanks David, I did suspect that was how it should sit but thought there had to have been something I was missing. Hopefully I should be able to finish putting the motor back together on thursday

I also wonder if the kickstart is partially engaging going on the video. The later clutch is certainly better until the rubbers shrink/get hard & then it gets noisier, with what you said that you paid for your bike it may be a bit more than you want to spend. How bad was the damage to the gears, I've seen the high spots o f where a ball bearing got into the primary drive gears stoned off as short term fix & it worked well, could be worth trying Looking at the front end of your bike someone has fitted later forks which have no adjustment but are better forks with the mudguard mounts part of the main casting rather than seperate

Have started assembling the motor but cant work out how the spring that sits around the actuator sits, the square end obviously fits over the lever but where does the round end go? My manual doesn't have a clear shot of how it should be Can anyone take me a photo of their bike to show the setup?

Had 1 of the akront flanged rims dropped in my lap last week along with the short lefthand threaded spokes & nipples to give to a wheelbuilder to lace onto my hub, should be interesting to see how it comes out I couldn't believe how hard it was to get the tubeless tyre of the standard rim

Pretty sure that the clutch side wouldn't work, from memory the ty250 has a unique gasket & cover, below the kickstart is basically a straight line