tony27

If you like flat trackers then check out some of the bike that the aussies have been importing to vintage race, this is 1 of the guys yetman triumphs but if you look through the topic you'll see others. Would give you some ideas of what bikes have been used http://forum.ozvmx.com/index.php?topic=29931.0 This bike is the holy grail to a lot of guys, limited build 750 Yamaha motor http://forum.ozvmx.com/index.php?topic=28219.0

Renthal 6inch trials bars should be the best bet, modern trials bikes normally come with a 5 or 5.5inch rise. BVM-moto list the 6inch rise with the part code RE6.0-768silver, my guess is the 768 is the bend with the 6.0 standing foe the rise & silver is the colour

Roughly 67cc, go either 65 or 70 whichever is easiest for you to measure

Have heard of superglue being used to fill in grooves, the high spots at the edge of the groove need removing as that's what will be damaging the seals. New tubes aren't cheap but you may be able to pick up a set of forks out of a stripped bike on ebay If you look at the bushes & any of the black coating on the inside is gone then the bushes are shot, the bush actually forms the first barrier to oil escaping, worn bushes are more likely to have leaking new seals than new bushes & old seals together. Hop that makes sense

The fan cycles on & off for short periods, normally from cold it takes 5 or so minutes for it to come on the first time. When riding the fan switching on & off is not something you'll notice unless the fan motor has a squeal This is what you should see under the tank if you're running the competition harness which runs a killswitch & no lights, should help you work out which wires go to the coil

The yellow wire is the power wire for the fan & lights but goes to a rectifier & regulator under the front tank mount first. Why has the plug been removed from your wiring?

Take your floats out & put them in a container of hot water, sounds almost like they are leaking, the hot water will cause the air inside them to expand & force out any fuel etc causing a fizzing effect & the float should also sink. If the carb is filling up when the tap is off then you need to put a rebuild kit in the tap as it must be leaking

Been struggling with getting spokes done for the flanged rim, wheelbuilder wasn't able to match the thread of the Beta spokes. Can anyone point me in the direction of somewhere that has spoked up the flanged type rim for a ty175/250 & would be able to send a set to the other side of the world?

Main majesty store is back up but magicals store still comes up with the being maintained message, hopefully that means it will be back in operation again soon

Different frame & airbox, won't fit without serious modification

Something has changed for the late model bikes, I've ridden both a 07 or 08 125 & a 12 or 13 125 this year & they're completely different bikes to ride. The new bike was an academy from memory & very hard to ride for someone used to a 290, no bottom end to speak of & all the power concentrated in the upper revs, the earlier bike was very easy to adapt to with heaps of bottom end & still had lots up top I don't recall ever seeing a 200 over here but I'd expect their character to be closer to the black frame 125 just more of it

75w is fine This is what I'm running in my 05 at the moment http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ipone-gear-box-oil-1-ltr.html For any problems you have Chris at splatshop would have to be the first place to ask, very knowledgeable & helpful

Take the small clutch cover off & strip the clutch, if it's been sitting 3 years the fibres could have semi rusted to the steel plates, you'll need to pry them apart & clean the steel plates properly. If that doesn't work then it's into the master & slave cylinders Front brake caliper sounds like it needs stripping & checking, when you reassemble it fill the space for the piston with brake fluid before fitting the pistons. You'll lose a small amount of fluid when you put the halves together but if you don't push the pistons back too far you'll force any air out when you do later, leave doing that until connected back to the hose

Don't have any photos of how it mounts but if you wait until the weekend I'll take the tank out & take some for you

That looks to be the right unit. Yellow wire is the power for the fan Use this link to get an idea of which wires go where, it will show you how to run a normal killswitch instead of the standard switchgear. Looking at the photos the ignition used is the correct type for your bike but the leonelli ignition is wired exactly the same http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/ryp_wiring_installation.pdf Hope this is of some help

The cdi/coil unit you need is made by ducati electronica, I've seen a listing for the correct 1 somewhere, not sure where exactly but had a link to a scooter store's listing

Use the sleepers to avoid the gravel

Power delivery, height, weight & suspension are the likely reason, depends on the type of hill though

To find a plastic welder locally go & see your local panelbeater/body shop, they'll either have the gear or will be able to tell you who repairs plastic bumpers etc for them Your airbox is likely to be polypro as well

The earlier gassers ran separate midboxes & mufflers, look at having a tab welded onto the muffler & a nut on the midbox to tie them together along with some form of mounting brace for further up the muffler if it's possible. Everything looks fixable without needing to destroy the bank account

Point gap is how you adjust timing on the ty250, pretty silly way to do it but that's how Yamaha made it

I think he may be both now

Reality is that 4stroke trials bikes require more work to maintain than a 2stroke trials bike, generally the only work needed on the engine is gearbox oil changes & air filter cleaning where the 4stroke you also have engine oil to do & valves to adjust. Trials bikes require next to no work on a daily basis compared to the higher tuned motors in most bikes, I've only done 1 possibly 2 piston kits in my Jarvis which was delivered August 04 & it's done 1000s of hours of work & they were only done as a precaution rather than because the motor was noisy or lost performance, the muffler condition has more bearing on power especially bottom end

Last sherco 320 I rode was straight out of the box & definitely felt like it was aimed at really good riders who mainly rode grippy stuff, felt really aggressive & I could see that finding grip in mud would take more skill than the same model 2stroke

Losing spark when the motor is warm is normally caused by the insulation breaking down in the windings. You mentioned the electrexworld system, could be worth seeing if they can supply a replacement stator coil like they can for lots of other bikes, the pair of ignition winding for my YZ465 are worth 55pound or 30 each which is cheap for new parts