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Have heard of superglue being used to fill in grooves, the high spots at the edge of the groove need removing as that's what will be damaging the seals. New tubes aren't cheap but you may be able to pick up a set of forks out of a stripped bike on ebay
If you look at the bushes & any of the black coating on the inside is gone then the bushes are shot, the bush actually forms the first barrier to oil escaping, worn bushes are more likely to have leaking new seals than new bushes & old seals together. Hop that makes sense
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The fan cycles on & off for short periods, normally from cold it takes 5 or so minutes for it to come on the first time. When riding the fan switching on & off is not something you'll notice unless the fan motor has a squeal
This is what you should see under the tank if you're running the competition harness which runs a killswitch & no lights, should help you work out which wires go to the coil
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The yellow wire is the power wire for the fan & lights but goes to a rectifier & regulator under the front tank mount first. Why has the plug been removed from your wiring?
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Take your floats out & put them in a container of hot water, sounds almost like they are leaking, the hot water will cause the air inside them to expand & force out any fuel etc causing a fizzing effect & the float should also sink.
If the carb is filling up when the tap is off then you need to put a rebuild kit in the tap as it must be leaking
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Been struggling with getting spokes done for the flanged rim, wheelbuilder wasn't able to match the thread of the Beta spokes.
Can anyone point me in the direction of somewhere that has spoked up the flanged type rim for a ty175/250 & would be able to send a set to the other side of the world?
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Main majesty store is back up but magicals store still comes up with the being maintained message, hopefully that means it will be back in operation again soon
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Different frame & airbox, won't fit without serious modification
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Something has changed for the late model bikes, I've ridden both a 07 or 08 125 & a 12 or 13 125 this year & they're completely different bikes to ride.
The new bike was an academy from memory & very hard to ride for someone used to a 290, no bottom end to speak of & all the power concentrated in the upper revs, the earlier bike was very easy to adapt to with heaps of bottom end & still had lots up top
I don't recall ever seeing a 200 over here but I'd expect their character to be closer to the black frame 125 just more of it
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75w is fine
This is what I'm running in my 05 at the moment
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ipone-gear-box-oil-1-ltr.html
For any problems you have Chris at splatshop would have to be the first place to ask, very knowledgeable & helpful
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Take the small clutch cover off & strip the clutch, if it's been sitting 3 years the fibres could have semi rusted to the steel plates, you'll need to pry them apart & clean the steel plates properly. If that doesn't work then it's into the master & slave cylinders
Front brake caliper sounds like it needs stripping & checking, when you reassemble it fill the space for the piston with brake fluid before fitting the pistons. You'll lose a small amount of fluid when you put the halves together but if you don't push the pistons back too far you'll force any air out when you do later, leave doing that until connected back to the hose
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Don't have any photos of how it mounts but if you wait until the weekend I'll take the tank out & take some for you
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That looks to be the right unit.
Yellow wire is the power for the fan
Use this link to get an idea of which wires go where, it will show you how to run a normal killswitch instead of the standard switchgear. Looking at the photos the ignition used is the correct type for your bike but the leonelli ignition is wired exactly the same
http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/ryp_wiring_installation.pdf
Hope this is of some help
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The cdi/coil unit you need is made by ducati electronica, I've seen a listing for the correct 1 somewhere, not sure where exactly but had a link to a scooter store's listing
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Use the sleepers to avoid the gravel
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Power delivery, height, weight & suspension are the likely reason, depends on the type of hill though
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To find a plastic welder locally go & see your local panelbeater/body shop, they'll either have the gear or will be able to tell you who repairs plastic bumpers etc for them
Your airbox is likely to be polypro as well
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The earlier gassers ran separate midboxes & mufflers, look at having a tab welded onto the muffler & a nut on the midbox to tie them together along with some form of mounting brace for further up the muffler if it's possible.
Everything looks fixable without needing to destroy the bank account
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Point gap is how you adjust timing on the ty250, pretty silly way to do it but that's how Yamaha made it
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I think he may be both now
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Reality is that 4stroke trials bikes require more work to maintain than a 2stroke trials bike, generally the only work needed on the engine is gearbox oil changes & air filter cleaning where the 4stroke you also have engine oil to do & valves to adjust.
Trials bikes require next to no work on a daily basis compared to the higher tuned motors in most bikes, I've only done 1 possibly 2 piston kits in my Jarvis which was delivered August 04 & it's done 1000s of hours of work & they were only done as a precaution rather than because the motor was noisy or lost performance, the muffler condition has more bearing on power especially bottom end
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Last sherco 320 I rode was straight out of the box & definitely felt like it was aimed at really good riders who mainly rode grippy stuff, felt really aggressive & I could see that finding grip in mud would take more skill than the same model 2stroke
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Losing spark when the motor is warm is normally caused by the insulation breaking down in the windings.
You mentioned the electrexworld system, could be worth seeing if they can supply a replacement stator coil like they can for lots of other bikes, the pair of ignition winding for my YZ465 are worth 55pound or 30 each which is cheap for new parts
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Contact John Cane at www.tytrials.co.uk , he has the spindle & nut listed.
I've dealt with him a few times from the other side of the world & like a lot of others on here I can't speak highly enough of him, probably has the best selection of parts for TYs in the world
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I don't see any wheels in any of the photos, do you have them? Luckily all twinshock ty175 & 250s use the same wheels & brakes etc so you should be able to source them if needed off us ebay fairly easily
The weld is a really strange place, would expect to see clutch cover damage as well if it was caused be impact
Be aware that all the engine covers are magnesium & need special care when welding, make sure you get a good layer of paint on them to prevent corrosion
Looks like you got a really good base to start with & shouldn't have too big a job to get it tidied up & running. John Cane at tytrials in the uk is great to deal with & stocks a lot of parts, the various ebays are great for finding the little things that he doesn't have
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The reason the top riders use the term race is translation, closest word they can come up with that has a meaning like contest
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