tony27

To get into both crank & gearbox I'd say the centre gasket must be the problem, possibly there are a couple of the case screws not fully tightened. Fill the crankcase with fuel & see if any escapes into the gearbox, at the least it should it should help remove the coolant from the big end etc Safest thing to do will be full strip & clean, replace the main bearings with the newer sealed type & fit Viton crankseals. check that the tapped holes in the cases are clean to full depth Since you've taken the head off the barrel you'll also need to replace the o-rings Chances are you may not find the obvious cause while rebuilding the motor but will fix it in doing so

Regulator & rectifier both sit under the front tank mount, the post that the tank sits over passes through the frame then both off them before screwing into the coil mount. I'll see about uploading a photo of the whole set up today My only thoughts are earth not connected in the above set up or broken yellow wire between the stator & the regulator/rectifier

Going on my experience with other brands normally the 250s have less power down low than the bigger bikes but similar higher up the revs

Being Fox shox they are fully rebuildable, parts are easy to get from Thor Lawson in the states I rebuilt a pair a couple of years using parts from him although at the time the pressure wasn't listed as being lower for trials shocks, worked okay from memory http://ltthor.home.comcast.net/~ltthor/forsale.html

125 will be fine to learn on, not having the power of a big bike makes you learn proper technique quicker

Can't believe you admitted that, arrow has always faced the exhaust port on any bike I've ever owned but they've always had forward facing exhausts. Have a look at your old piston & see where the pegs for the ends of the rings are, they need to be away from the exhaust port

If the piston is 75.95mm then I'm picking bore size will be exactly 76.00mm giving clearance of .05mm or 2 thou

Look on us eBay, seems to be the most common of the models over there & generally there will be more than 1 A seller to look for is vintage-trials, has a lot of stuff & says to ask for anything not listed

Is this of any help? The photo is from my 04 Jarvis Rep running the race loom to remove all the wiring for the lights & only runs a kill switch

If I lived in the UK I'd sign it in a heartbeat, same thing seems to happen around the world now with people buying property cheaply near well known noise producing venues & then expect to be able to get it shut down so their property values rise

Lands are the piece between the rings, personally if the piston has seized I'd replace the rings at a minimum. To check if there has been a seizure remove the header pipe from the cylinder & look up the exhaust port, crank the motor over slowly & check the whole piston for scoring & smearing of aluminium over the rings

M9x1.0 is the size AJP used, plenty of aftermarket stops available to fit

Flywheel key

Gaskets seem to be the same part numbers for ty175 & dt175 up to c model, only way to know for sure is to compare the cylinder heights from the base to the top for a start then see if it will fit cases. Think I remember Feetupfun as having done something similar

I had similar symptoms a few years ago with a failing stator, would generally stop after a run between sections & take 10-15 mins to cool down before it would start up again & run perfectly until the next time it got hot & slowed down again

It's standard for most of the guys who I have trailridden on trials bike with to carry a piece of wire with terminals on both ends for bypassing the thermoswitch in the event of a failure The second the bike is running the fan will run which in theory makes the engine take longer to reach operating temperature but in reality I've never noticed any real difference in how the bike runs with the thermoswitch bypassed

To do seals the cases don't need to be split, I've never replaced just the seals because I've always been doing main bearings at the time but they do fit from the opposite side of the cases from the bearings Normal way to remove them with the motor assembled is to carefully wind a self tapping screw into the seal & use vice grips or similar to pull on the screw to remove it

Sorry to say it but unless you can put up with the noise you'll need to replace the gear, it shouldn't be welded as the gears are case hardened & you'll just end up with teeth that could snap off causing a lot more damage It could be worth looking on ebay for a clutch basket from a breaker, part number for the gear is the same from 99-2010

New Zealand = Less than 500 at a educated guess

As Cope says both forks take the same amount of oil, I always use level rather than amount but don't remember what it is off the top of my head The rear shock for that year is probably a sachs as that is what my Jarvis had standard although they were in reality preproduction bikes for 05. I run a TRP shock in mine & even though the spring is probably specced more for a rider under 80kg I don't have any problems with excessive sag & I weigh a similar amount, fork springs are still the originals

Did the bike have any engine noise when you last ran it? I replaced my basket & the rubber dampers in the gear last year & was amazed at how quiet the bike was afterwards, for what it cost I won't ever bother filing the basket as it's too easy to end up with only a few of the fingers making contact with the clutch plates Splatshop has a guide in their blog showing exactly what is involved

Powerdynamo sells Czech made Vape ignitions which this is looking at the stator plate, I considered buying 1 for my CZ race bike but didn't in the end due to the lack of advance. Nicely made gear though

It's possible & you don't need to refit the bolts, never felt the need to do it to any of my shercos & would worry about clutch slip in higher gears

What could be a factor in the cost difference is that the sherco has no adjusters in the forks & only spring preload adjustment in the rear where the Beta has spring preload on 1 fork & rebound adjustment in the other, rear shock has preload & rebound adjustment Reality is that most people do not adjust the suspension far from factory settings if at all

Pretty sure DID is correct, the corrosion is fairly normal as well, I've seen wheels that the rim has basically dissolved from the tube side out