tony27

If you look at the top slot there should be a line punched on the stator, rather than retarding the ignition I would line that up with the edge of the casting which is standard position & see how it goes. Mark looks a long way from where it should be The earlier ignition covers with built-in sprocket cover never sealed right, they distort basically right in front of the sprocket & throw chain flings water through the gap. I changed to the 06 on cover as soon as they became available & haven’t had a problem since, use sealant instead of the original o-ring to maximise benefit

If you didn't get the motor hot enough to dry the exhaust out properly after submerging it chances are you're going to need main bearings soon. Is the play in/out with the primary gear off or up/down? Up/down is worn out, the primary gear being tightened up should remove in/out play Replacing main bearings isn't the worst job as long as you take your time, biggest thing to be careful of is the gearbox. The whole job is in 1 of the links pinned at the top of the section

Very nice, are both running standard porting? I have a V-Force reed block to fit into my C model but haven't had a chance to get inside the cylinder to open the intake housing out for it to fit. Do you credit the reed with the wider power spread?

If I remember correctly the hose from the pump isn't quite right as supplied. I suggest you give Chris at Splatshop a call & see what he can suggest, has always been very helpful as a lot of people on this site will agree

I had a similar problem when I fitted ARC folding levers when I first received my Jarvis rep, I ended up working our where the pivot needed to be & machined a large enough hole to take a bush, was only about 1-1 1/2mm difference but it fixed the problem If you have an engineering background or know someone who has access to a lathe & mill it's an easy job

Good that's something simple In answer to your question about the partially covered hole in the flywheel, that is normal

Hadn't opened the photo to see the rivets, if I'd looked closer I would have seen it is on the opposite side of the headstock to mine There is a lot more detail on the label than what is on your bike as well

Kart guys etc swear by it

Nothing like the number on mine. A quick look at as much of the bike as I can see in the photo says probably between 2001 & 2004 model but I'd probably lean towards the older age from the fuel recommendation label Unfortunately the engine number on mine doesn't help with size so I doubt yours will as well, can be found across the back of the cases in front of the swingarm Easy way to tell if it's a 2001 is rear caliper position & number of spokes, 2002 the caliper moved to inside the swingarm on the bigger bikes, I think the 125s & 200s kept the older above the swingarm calipers for at least a year longer,. Spoke count dropped from 36 to 32 at the same time

The taper is what does the work, the key is only to allow quick assembly in the same spot every time. This is why you need a puller to remove flywheels, you need to break the mate of the 2 pieces Never had a bike without the key but have seen what happens if the key is slightly too high making the taper not make full contact I would assume there will be marks that have to line up when the motor is set either at TDC or firing position before you tighten the flywheel up fully

Normally when the hall effect sensor fails you get no spark at all or very intermittent spark at best. This comes from experience. If the timing marks are in the right place then it wouldn't hurt to check the stator readings against on splatshop's site

Easiest thing to check is the timing, there should be a mark on the stator that lines up with the edge of 1 mounting lugs. If the timing has been altered too much it can cause overheating When you repack the muffler apart from the difference in noise level you should find that you get an improvement in low end power You don't mention any abnormal noises from the engine so jetting doesn't sound to be any issue, 125 is fairly standard for trials & I've never had any problems trail riding with the same jet even when working the motor hard enough to burn all the oil out of the packing which is normally what you'll see when you stop the motor & it smokes for a while afterwards Photo of the piston looks pretty normal, any damage you would normally see will be further down the skirt, usually scoring is what you'll see

Will probably fit but is quite differently shaped. Only way you'll know for sure is try it

Can be replaced with the engine in the frame still. The clutch needs to come off to do it & a new clutch cover gasket is the only extra part that you really need although I would suggest replacing the water pump seals while the clutch cover is off

The rubbers have gone hard & shrunk, have a look on splatshop's site in their blog on replacing the basket & you'll see the pieces I mean along with the cost of the parts Not a hard job to do if you have the skills, cheap job to do & you may as well replace the basket at the same time if there is any sign of grooving on the fingers I did might a couple of years ago & it helped make the bike sound like new http://www.splatshop.co.uk/blog/2012/10/clutch-basket-fitting-guide/

Sort of horses for courses, try attempting some of the stuff ridden now on even a early monoshock bike & all sorts of things will break Most problems people have with newer bikes are as mentioned caused by either the owner or a previous owner or lack of skill. Like everything there are some exceptions like failing stators which are pure bad luck & often a known problem with that particular bike

1 other thought A couple of Shercos ago I ended up with major slip which was caused by the bellvue washer used behind the clutch hub nut not doing it's job allowing the nut to sit proud of the end of the layshaft which meant the clutch release bearing wasn't fully returning While you have the pressure plate off have a look at where the nut sits & retorque if needed The reply from Tim at Splatshop is why so many of us hold them in such high regard, they've helped me out a couple of times even though I live as far away from the shop as humanly possible

Do you have the top friction plate rotated into the shallow notch as the factory recommends? I don't know what effect not doing this would have I seem to remember there being marks on the hub & pressure plate that had to be inline as well

Because they use a different style, the chain guided onto the sprocket with a bulky guide that would be forever smashing into things on a trials bike A trials bikes tensioner is generally fairly close to the pivot of the swingarm which offers a degree of protection to it. The difference in length of swingarms may also play a part

Electrexworld are English, a lot of their stuff may by sold by HPI in Belgium as the photos & part numbers are the same I have 2 different bikes with their systems fitted, my TY250 is a work in progress so I can't comment on it's performance, uses the standard Yamaha flywheel. My 73 CZ380 has 1 been running their single plug system for 2 seasons now, came with a new flywheel. I can't fault the performance of the it but getting information out of them about whether the twin plug system they've just come out with uses the same flywheel & stator with different coil etc is next to impossible as their answering of emails is pretty hit & miss which does seem to be a common complaint from others as well

Generally gets rid of any film on the disc & improves braking as well as stopping the groan you quite often hear, possibly has an affect on any glazing of the pads. It does work although sometimes it requires more than 1 go. If the pads or disc have been contaminated with grease or oil it is likely to have no real effect

Same thing happens with Betas, there is a pinned thread in the Beta section on a fix, basically it involves removing the extra glue between each pad & smoothing the tangs on the friction plates. The reason why both brands share the same problem is that they use the same friction plates

Fitting the rings is definitely a fingers to compress only job, the ends of the rings will be offset from the centreline by about the same amount but opposite directions which hopefully is visible in this shot of an old piston As a point of reference the inside of the piston is marked Beta, I know this is the exact same piston used in both the Beta 270 & Sherco 290 with Vertex changing the insert in the die for the different manufacturers

Externally there aren't any differences, only change between 250 & 290 are piston, cylinder & head. Even the jetting is the same If you have the cylinder off measuring the bore size will tell. I don't suggest removing the head from the cylinder as you need to replace all the o-rings if you do that I'll have a look at my Jarvis cylinder to compare numbers & a cylinder off my old 01 that I have under the bench

There goes half your stuff if you try that one