tony27

To replace the shaft you need to remove the clutch assembly & sidecover, it slides out easily Most people should be able to do it in under an hour, no special tools needed if you have access to a rattle gun for the clutch nut

Personally I'd buy a all balls/moose racing kit for the linkages/swingarm mount, bearings are the same but their sleeves are much better quality & I wouldn't be sure the complete kit is not cheaper than the genuine parts. Kit number is 27-1165 & is easily found on ebay especially from the states, I lent my kit to a clubmate for his new bike that was nowhere near what it was advertised as & he was able to replace it in about a week from the states for a lot less than he expected

Could also be worth contacting John Cane at tytrials & seeing if he has any of the reproductions left that he had for sale a year or 2 ago

How different would the gearbox be in the scorpa 175 or do they suffer from the same issue?

They show up on us ebay quite often, you have to buy it fitted to an airbox though

If it's starting on the choke & bogging when the choke is switched off then the pilot jet circuit has some form of blockage somewhere If my memory serves me correctly I ran my fuel inlet so that the hose was just missing the vent The easy way to refit the airbox with the deflector is to fit the carb then slide the deflector into place then slide the airbox through the hole in the deflector & into the joint, it gets easier with practise & the deflector does form to the correct shape over time

Check that your gear lever isn't hitting the bashplate when trying to select 1st, the lever seems to have more travel to select 1st gear than changing down to any other gear. If this is the case then the selector shaft has twisted at the built in weak point just behind the pawl plate most likely due to either stomping on the gear lever or a big crash where the lever has been snagged. Happened to my 99 & 01 when I had them, shaft is easy to replace & fairly cheap- a lot cheaper than having to do anything to the inside of the gearbox

Looking on the tytrials site 3BA is 88

This is what I have, works for flywheel as well http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/prod_424514-Clutch-Flywheel-Holding-Tool.html

Not sure whether you can get a drift on the outside of the outer race or not, 3 or 4 spots of weld on the bearing surface will shrink the outer race enough for it to fall out The lower inner race/bearing is generally pressed onto the stem & requires you to either cut it apart or press the stem out of the yoke, other possibility is to use a split bearing remover which slides between the yoke & bearing. For the number of times you're likely to use 1 of these I'd just take it to a shop & have them do it for you

They were there when I first posted, will have a look to see what happened & fix it Looks like it didn't like me moving the photos into the folder of my sherco stuff rather than an undefined folder after I'd posted them

You asked for it, the pins on the inside fit the hub firmly the full length of the hub which means the there is no possiblity damaging the hub. A bit of overkill but I was able to make it fairly quickly at work 1 night

Looks to me that the Merlin has the swingarm pivot below the gearbox sprocket which would explain why the chain gets more freeplay as the suspension compresses, the distance between sprocket & pivot wouldn't help either Front sprocket looks tiny as well which wouldn't help with chain life Was the Merlin the forerunner of gas gas or were the pxc stickers fitted later on?

If the pilot jet appears to be getting partially blocked after every ride it may that you are either missing the screen filter in the side of the standard dell orto carb or if are running a keihin you need a inline filter On the dell orto there is a cover that the fuel line is connected to, remove that & there should be a fine mesh screen in there. If you think you're getting water in the airbox there are a couple of things to check/do. Is there a small black splash guard fitted at the front of the airbox that sits over the front of the airbox where the carb connector fits? This is the piece http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-air-box-deflector.html Sherco also put out a bulletin about taping up under the rear guard down to the airbox to seal up that area http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/Engine_Stops_Running_in_Wet_Conditions.pdf A question for you, how do you remove the carb from the airbox, if you undo the connector from the carb & leave it on the airbox it is very difficult to get sealed up again, easiest & safest way is to leave it connected to the carb & undo it from the airbox which is really the only way refit the airbox with the splash guard fitted

You'd laugh if you saw the tool I made for doing mine, wanted to spread the load as much as possible to prevent the possibility of grooving the hub. Will take a photo & post it up later

Time for crankseals from what you describe, the gearbox side seals don't leak as often as the ignition side seals but you may as do them at the same time. Get a set of viton seals & clutch cover gasket off splatshop, you'll need to remove the clutch as well as the primary drive gear to do the gearbox side seal & both the flywheel & stator to do the ignition side seal

The fan being on all the time is 1 of 2 things, the wires which fit to thermoswitch have been joined together which sounds like what you describe although you say that the terminals have been linked. This is normally done if the thermoswitch fails & doesn't switch the fan on The other is that the thermoswitch has jammed internally making fulltime contact, mine does that from time to time Most likely you need a new thermoswitch which is the same as fitted to gas gas' that have the inline thermoswitch http://www.splatshop.co.uk/in-line-thermostat-sherco-Gas Gas.html

Sure did, you write very well David Is the toolbox mount completely gone now like it appears in the later photos, how did the standard airbox fit up with the shortening of the rear subframe? You've managed to show that there is a lot more that has to happen when modifying the frame than just the work on the frame, would not have thought about all the work needed on the main part of the exhaust to make it fit

Depends which sound map he selects

TY350 cylinders are chromed, there is no liner beneath the chrome so you will need to have it rechromed by someone like Langcourts. Cost looks to be around 140gbp going off Splatshop's site No idea whether the 250 topend will fit but I'd suspect that the 350 is in effect an overbored 250. Going to a 250 topend if it fits isn't going to solve all your problems as getting pistons for them sounds to be a major problem

The way I read this is that the contaminants in the water are what is converted to fuel rather than corn/food, surely the biomass is the contaminants

Which brand of ignition would that be, thinking of fitting an electrex world 1 to mine seeing as John Cane isn't listing them anymore

Is the TY piston the 1 on the left in both photos, if so it looks like the deck height from the pin to the crown is quite a bit taller & to fit the other pistons would involve shortening the cylinder to allow the piston to travel to the top of the bore Have you checked all the normal TY parts suppliers?

Changed my rear master cylinder earlier this year & found the easiest/only way to get all the air bled out was to remove the reservoir & fit a syringe in place of it to force the fluid through the system with the bleed nipple open. The syringe we used was an old loctite master gasket tube which doesn't seem to get affected by the brake fluid unlike a proper syringe from a vets which the body seems to swell away from the rubber seal inside

I take it you mean the flywheel, the puller to remove it fits quite a few different bikes & doesn't cost much. They are listed all over ebay & any of the site sponsors will be able to supply you 1 the same or next day http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-flywheel-puller.html I have the same 1 as this in my bag that I take whenever I'm riding