tony27

Way before then, wasn't that the teaser video of him testing the prototype in 04?

Well put. One of the guys I was trailriding/tramping on 2 wheels had said about how he'd gone down 1 tooth on the front of his gasser & down 1 at the back which was too much. General consensus was that going up on the rear would have been less drastic Using the gassers ratios as examples you'll see what we mean Standard 11 front 42 rear =3.82/1 reduction Present 10 front 41 rear =4.1/1 reduction Suggested 11 front 43 rear=3.91 reduction Common 10 front 42 rear =4.2 reduction this is standard for shercos & used by lots of gas gas riders Another benefit of altering the rear is not needing to use a half link Hope that makes sense

Are the plastics blue or grey underneath the sticker. Blue would mean 02 & grey is 04, the readings for 04 on are here http://www.uk-motoplat.com/testing.html or http://www.splatshop.co.uk/stator-repair.html I've never seen the readings for the ducati electronica ignition used in the earlier models but also haven't heard of any failing either Hopefully it shouldn't be too hard to find the problem as its not a complex system with lots of sensors like on the mont Follow Cope's tips on what to check & you won't go wrong

Personally I wouldn't go smaller on the front as it means the chain has to take a tighter turn which is not good for both chain & sprocket, always better to work on the rear-greater scope for incremental change Some guys have been running around 44t here to slow them down, would possibly mean second gear is used more often & sounds to be what you're after Only thing about lowering the gearing is that it can actually make the bike react quicker, think of how quickly the speed changes when in first compared to fourth

I do ride with allen keys all the time, need them to reclip the guard

I've been running a v-force reed block for a few years & can't fault it, just fitted a 28mm Oko & noticed how well it revs now, if anything the bike is smoother now at low revs

From memory it works out easier to leave the stator loose while you sort the wiring out then carefully get the radiator back into the mounts While you have the cover off the radiator slot the lower holes in the cover so you can pull it off when cleaning the bike or to help unclog it in a muddy event, not sure on whether the black frame bikes run the same cover or not

Should be the same as most other trials bikes that run AJP master cylinders, sherco are the only make from memory who use a different way of routing the hose. Most have the end of the hose threading into the cylinder but sherco uses a banjo fitting at the back. See whats available at short notice & fit it, you probably won't notice any difference

It is a lot easier if you lift the radiator out of the mounts as it gives more room without having to totally remove it

Major changes to frame in 2001 with engine & footpeg position changing, this was when the airbox changed & lost the inner guard/mudflap. This was also when the exhaust changed from separate centre box & muffler to the current 1 piece muffler My guess is that the piece that clips under the frame behind the airbox is in a different place but can't say for sure. Only going on memory as when I sold my 2001 to get the Jarvis the spares went with it Hope this helps out

I seem to remember 1 of the french sites do carbon covers & a few other pieces, do a search & see what you come up with

Stators always seem to be the weak point & the readings to check are available. Also easiest thing to test

http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-3-2-rear-silencer.html Is that the 1? Quite a bit more that a 2t exhaust

The early sheros ran ducati electronica ignition which seemed to hold back the power, I noticed the difference in power & the ability to rev when changing from my ducati equipped 2001 model to the leonelli equipped 04 jarvis rep. The ducati ignition does seem to have a better reputation for longevity as well, don't remember hearing of any failing

Last time I looked the basket & hub looked good, only did bearings & seals about 2 months ago. I did the slave cylinder last year. I know exactly what you mean about notched clutches & seeing as I use the clutch for finding grip etc the lever is hardly ever fully out, constantly amazed as to lack of wear

The pullers are easy to find but not needed unless you plan on adjusting the timing

Mine's just started doing the sticking thing when hot sometimes, guess a seal kit for the master cylinder is called for

Think somebody got their just desserts

The main problem with usd forks on trials bike isn't excessive rigidity, quite the opposite. A trials bike has a smaller diameter front axle than a mx or enduro bike & this allows them to twist The 2000 model rev3 was the last bike to try them & they were a failure, the factory had to come up with a fork brace partway through the year as a fix before reverting to conventional forks the next year I remember reading & hearing quite a few stories of how it was possible to see the front end twist when you grabbed a handful of front brake I can see most buyers going for the conventional forks even if the axle does end up being larger just because we're all pretty conservative when it comes to what we're used to in the front of our bikes

With the oko I've fitted there was a manifold supplied that is 28mm the whole way through, Chris at splatshop said to me when I asked about getting a keihin manifold that it was only 26mm internally & wasn't really needed. Have a talk to him & he'll explain what to do I keep forgetting your bike is a 125 & it uses different parts for the intake My carb clears the cases quite nicely, would it not be cheaper to put a oko on than get all the bits that sound to be missing from your keihin?

I've seen the V-force reed block on ebay for 150euro & my clubmate that fitted 1 to his 08 beta said they're available in the uk for 100 pounds Don't bother trying to squeeze the keihin into the original as its larger diameter, turn it down to the same size as the dellorto. Have been told the keihin manifold is the same internal size as the standard 1 & only differs in where the carb fits in

Nylon like the tank is possibly made from is a thermoplastic, ie is able to be remelted etc. The other main plastic group are only 1 shot deals, best known example is bakelite Most plastic tanks are the same, old trick for expanding enduro bike tanks is to fill with boiling water & add air pressure If you do decide to try reshaping the tank for clearance I'd use the hot water & try to use something to keep the shape as it cools Most plastics take roughly 24hrs to stop moving after moulding-mainly shrinking so leaving held to the new shape as long as possible is best idea

Sounds similar to the scorpa 4 stroke

Might be time to have a look at the basket & see if theres any notches worn into the fingers, if so pull the clutch apart & get them filed out

Had a play with the carb today, mainly airscrew & pretty happy with the results. Think I'll have to go up 1 size on pilot & maybe alter float height slightly I ran without vent tubes fitted & even though we had to do quite a bit of crossing of creeks had no problems apart from falling off a bank while warming up & submerging the bike completely, the airbox was so full of water that it was running out through the float bowl overflow Have to say I'm impressed