ausy300pro

IS that the same Paul Jackson that does the wheel building as well ? are contact details on Yorkshire classic website ? Thanks

I tried to get a 32 hole tubeless rim from central wheel components (emailed one night whilst on net) and they said that they could not supply a 32 spoke tubeless rim ??? I am trying to build a tubeless wheel for my Majesty 175 and have been looking out for old gas gas wheels as apparently some of those are 32 spoke tubeles, anyone better informed ?

Me too, I am only five eight and even I got cramp, my son who I was with (he is five ten or eleven, not sure) was in agony, and to make things worse had a bunch of noisy ignorant sods behind us knocking seats and one of them (a child who was not told any different by parents) actually put their feet on back of my sons seat, takes the edge off of it a little doesn't it ? ps who can win world trials in 2018 I reckon Bou might be beatable by then ?

Mine has a modified bash plate, only on clutch side though ?? I got the flywheel from an xt125r, checked it for weight, bang on at 1.6 kg so no need to skim any off, fitted it to bike and only then did I find that it is about 5mm bigger in od and was catching on casing, never noticed when on the bench, so don't get a flywheel from an xt125r, have now removed it and am waiting to get some turned off my original flywheel unless a ttr125 flywheel comes up on fleabay today or tomorrow.

I recently bought a Scorpa (secondhand one) and have to say its the best built trials bike I have ever had, only the Hondas (including 4RT) are as good, and Birkett will go out of his way to try and help, therefore I would consider a new Scorpa as they are pretty good reasons to buy one, only downside is if you want to get up 300foot steps then linkless rear suspension may not be the best.

That's a coincidence Archie ! in between my dinner and pudding (got to rest !) I have just bought and paid for a flywheel rotor from a 2008 XT125R cos I could not find a TTR one, hopefully it is right for job, will have to weigh them both when it arrives and then gonna go halfway to birketts recommendation and see how it goes, ps I bought a set of red stickers (and yellow ones) from birkett while they still have stocks so interesting to see yours with red stickers, looks good might put my red ones on when I get mods finsihed.

I am interested that Woody says Falcons are better than rock shocks, any reason why ? I bought some rock shocks and cannot fault the performance (I was replacing a totally knackered old pair of betors though), I had them built to my spec, i.e. for my weight and bike and with damping on the light side, also had service second to none from John bull, just wondered (woody) is it like most things, down to personal preference as long as you buy a reasonably good quality piece of kit, and lets face it, it is the lump of lard on top of the thing that makes the most difference with trials.

Well, made initial enquiries tonight about a flywheel, only ones I can find so far though are from XT125R,s I think they are suitable but not 100% sure so not bought one, will look another day or two for TTR flywheel, would agree with your comment about it being a noticeable mod as I have taken about half of the weight from the flywheel on my Majesty and that picks up much quicker (have done other stuff to that as well though)

easier of the two courses at post hill will be eased a little this year to account for fact only two courses as opposed to the three courses of club trial, certainly nothing too difficult, that is the intention.

OK Archie, I was going to try get a spare flywheel (I guess a ttr125 or ybr125 or xt125r or rieju125 have same flywheel) then gonna go half way in weight towards birketts recommendation and give it a go.

I am on standard gearing (10 tooth gearbox sprocket) and that seems about right, I may end up playing with gearing a bit though as I am finding that best way to ride sections is all in bottom and let the motor rev, as for the lightened flywheel you have I would be interested in it, did you take it down to the weight that birkett recommends ? I have 99% cured the cough stall thing, not had chance to play with the accelerator pump spring yet but am gonna put a slightly lighter spring in and see how it reacts, let me know re flywheel archie, ps I will probably be riding more richmond trials next year as some of my mates like their trials and I am going round to the more traditional no stop type of trials.

well first time one of my bikes has been called blinged up ! it does look better than the standard pipe though (and saves a few grams with heat shield and mounting bosses removed), yes Archie got forks sorted, main problem was too much oil, stripped them right down and completely emptied them, rebuilt with new oil seals and used the air gap method for oil quantity, work perfect now (good job you told me about damping adjuster working opposite way round to most others), next week gonna take a little bit of weight off flywheel, bike is well now (just need to learn how to ride !)

sorry to be a little off thread, had a look at the website and they have a good replacement rear brake pedal to fit the 125/175,s would like one for my 175 but suspect like godzilla that I would struggle to order anything from website, I tried to order some parts from mitani for my little scorpa and after several attempts with no response I gave up, pity cos mitani (and this site as well) do some nice trick bits for the scorpas, I ended up removing the heat guard and getting pipe chromed instead of fitting a mitani titanium front pipe.

I am trying to build a tubeless rim onto my TY175 hub, have had trouble locating a hub in perfect condition, I have one spare hub that has some of the alloy casting broken off and another one that is perfect cosmeticaly but has a worn brake lining, has anyone had brake lining repaired and if so where and how much (my main rear wheel that is perfect I am going to retain with a tubed rim for any trials that won't allow tubeless tyres), it's for my majesty rebuild which is nearing completion will post a pic or two soon.

suppose a lot of it is down to observer, most riders dont want to lose two at one hit i.e. stopping and putting a foot down, one more dab and its a three (yes my maths is that good !) you don't want to be threeing everything, I observed when it was one for a stop and found it best compromise as you could only record a clean by doing section non stop, I have seen and heard the debate rolling on about which system to use and have come to the conclusion that the biggest problem is ............... THE RIDERS ! trouble is there are too many riders that will intimidate observers when given a mark that they don't want even though they know it has been a five, too many pot chasers I think, thats why observers will be lenient with some and not others, the whole thing would be much easier to apply if observers could mark honestly without fear of a gob full from some riders, that should be a bigger debate how to instill a sense of respect in riders, also be thankful for the time put in by any official at a trial.

Have to agree with timp, one for a stop seemed to make perfect sense for me, gave the incentive to keep forward motion, so in effect no stop but without the penalty of a five which can make it a mockery, as for being able to stop and sit there with your foot down for ten minutes and incur a one, the less said about that the better (don't want to get banned from site for swearing !)

well my favourite would be the Beta rev 3, an 07 or 08 if budget allows, they are slightly better built than one or two of the others (no names as I will only be contradicited), had betas for three years (06 and 07) and once carb was sorted out neither missed a beat and both were easy to ride, especially for a returnee, great at sticking to a chosen line, not as easy to trick ride as say a gasser but that only matters when you move up in class and ability, the 07 one that I had was a great bike to own and ride.

Have to agree with you, some of my mates think I have lost my marbles when I say I find it boring to spectate at a championship trial now, fantastic skills by the top riders but too repetitive, also agree make the sections a little easier with no practice lap, after all we get excluded from a trial if we practice sections before trial, never understood that one.

doesn't anyone walk the sections before riding them ? also looks very quiet trial, no queuing anywhere ? looks good to me, possibly worth the trip to Jersey

HI could be miles wide of the mark but as a kid (long long time ago !) I had a field bike with what looked like the identical engine, it was 75cc and if memory serves it only had three gears,

HI Archie, yes they are the fully adjustable paiolis, thanks for info about damping adjuster working in to out, when bike arrived with me it was wound nearly all the way out (about five clicks left) which is probably why they seemed hard and were not using all the travel up, unfortunately since I had my sweaty mitts on it I have managed to make it worse, don't know how as what I did was remove the damper rod retaining bolts from bottom of forks to drain and flush out the old oil (strange that there is no proper drain screws on the paioli forks ), then removed caps from top of forks and filled with correct amount of 5 weight oil, now the damping adjuster on top of forks will only go about ten clicks in before getting tight and won't go anymore, I am now guessing that this could be my problem, it has somehow got misaligned or something, looks like a complete strip down of forks. ps article on float height is very good, got to be honest have spent years setting up carbs (for road racing and trials) and even though I have altered float height as well as jetting, needle taper and slide cut away, I never knew that the fuel in float chamber was subject to pressure changes (dont forget we all walk round with 14.5 psi on our shoulders) so this can have an effect, obvious really when you sit and think about it. pps I am gonna try a slightly softer spring in accelerator pump as you can still make engine cough if you are quick enough on throttle, but purely for reference as it is 99.9% right now.

Well got carburettion sorted out, bike now running pretty well, best so far for me, still gonna do the head mods, clean up the ports and guides etc, your suggestions have worked out pretty well (Archie) although went a little more conservative with float level and set it at 17mm as I dont want flooding (had a couple of betas so now paranoid). Now have major problems with front suspension/forks, had to retire from a trial today, when I first rode bike four weeks ago front forks seemed pretty hard, certainly not getting anywhere near full travel even with damping and preload backed right off (I weigh between 12 and 12.5 stones), so I figured maybe last owner had put too much or wrong grade of oil in, I drained old oil out of forks and seemed to be about the right quantity although lots of crap came out with old oil, also found the little collar that goes between spring and nylon preload spacer was sticking on inside of stanchion so I ground a liitle off of the OD, refilled fork legs with right quantity (355 and 370cc 5W oil) and put back together, so went out on bike today and found about 30mm of travel before forks went solid (so much so caused a front puncture on first lap), I was going to try and finish so went back to van and drained out a little oil from each fork leg (in case I had left some old oil in when i refilled) this then gave me about 50mm travel before going solid, ANY IDEAS ????????????????????? Bloody fed up thought if anything I might have carb problems not a ridgid front end, HELP NEEDED AND VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. ps one other thing with forks damping adjuster does not seem to have its full range of adjustment and goes tight rather than a definite stop, could it somehow be causing the problem ??? pps if you know the answer to this one I will ride a trial in your neck of the woods and buy you a pint Archie

Buy a drink !!!!!!!!!!!!!! have you not noticed I am also a yorkshireman ??? nearly gave me a heart attack, ok will take your advice on the diaphragm spring and go with sorting out jetting etc, great info again thanks to Archie and to Rod T for tappet settings, have already ordered the jets so am

HI Archie, thanks again for info, brilliant just what I want, have got carb stripped and most of it looks right, pilot jet is 17.5 but main is standard so have ordered a 102.5 and a 105 to get me where it needs to be, I have felt the step on inlet manifold and will do a little bit of port work when I have the head off at a later date, for now apart from tappet clearance my next concern is this accelerator pump on the carb, you said your spring is quite hefty ? hard to quantify strength of a spring without equipment to measure it other than measuring diameter of wire and overall length of spring but mine does seem too heavy, it would take a massive depression in inlet tract to create enough vacuum to open the valve with this spring in it, might even just try a lighter spring and see what happens, don't suppose you have any recommendation for fork oil wieght and quantity to save me having to go trial and error from a bad start point, as at the moment I am only using half the travel even off a drop off so think the previous owner has put either too much or too heavy oil in as settings are backed right off. Cheers

stripped carb and as I suspected problems with accelerator pump someone has bodged it with wrong spring, it is so strong it would never be able to operate diaphragm through vacuum, so need to source correct strength spring and if possible diaphragm, anyone had to do this before, where did you get parts and any idea what the carb model is. Thanks again (hoping)