grease on the chain! noooooooooooooooo! grit will stick to the grease and wear your chain ........... I have found that gear oil is good for the trials bike and chainsaw chain oil is good for the enduro bike (low fling) ..............

That's why i use the crap grease because as soon as it come's in contact with pressure it turns to oil . Used it for a year on a chain that cost £35 , another crap quality product , but got a year out of it and the only reason iv'e taken it off Ship , is because it stretches like knicker elastic .

The chain saw oil is good . Got plenty of that from living in Europe .

That's why i use the crap grease because as soon as it come's in contact with pressure it turns to oil . Used it for a year on a chain that cost £35 , another crap quality product , but got a year out of it and the only reason iv'e taken it off Ship , is because it stretches like knicker elastic .

The chain saw oil is good . Got plenty of that from living in Europe .

a-ha - I see! I stand corrected

I figure I don't ride a chainsaw (sounds painful!), so I'm not gonna put chainsaw oil on my GG or YZ.

I use Belray Chain stuff on my bike(s).....made for dirt bikes, not chainsaws or lawn equipment.

I also figure that crap grease is just that....crap. My bike are worth a lot of bucks and I want to keep 'em running well, so they only get the best! I tend to use good oils/greases on them. For the amount I go through, it's cheap at the price and I have the peace of mind that the bikes will last.

For example, in my premix I only use full synthetic Belray H1R.....figure the extra slipperiness doesn't hurt and may extend engine life. Cheaper than a new bike. I also use full synth in my truck too for the same reason. Kind of like using 10w30 in the bedroom instead of KY. Might not lighten the wallet as much, but if you wanna ride a lot, the few extra pennies may pay dividends! LOL

Edited August 29, 201312 yr by purplebeast

Kind of like using 10w30 in the bedroom instead of KY. Might not lighten the wallet as much, but if you wanna ride a lot, the few extra pennies may pay dividends! LOL

:rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:

The other day I bled my rear brake for the umpteenth time, (had some other stuff I fixed) finally think I got it set. Biffsgasgas told me to raise the front end up to make the banjo bolt on the rear brake master the high point and bleed it right there first. Reason being the banjo bolt goes in just down a bit from the top of the master cylinder and air will get trapped above it, but by making banjo bolt high spot the air will go out there when bled.

so far so good but I think I may have contaminated my pads with all that brake fluid floating around.

I figure I don't ride a chainsaw (sounds painful!), so I'm not gonna put chainsaw oil on my GG or YZ.

I use Belray Chain stuff on my bike(s).....made for dirt bikes, not chainsaws or lawn equipment.

I also figure that crap grease is just that....crap. My bike are worth a lot of bucks and I want to keep 'em running well, so they only get the best! I tend to use good oils/greases on them. For the amount I go through, it's cheap at the price and I have the peace of mind that the bikes will last.

For example, in my premix I only use full synthetic Belray H1R.....figure the extra slipperiness doesn't hurt and may extend engine life. Cheaper than a new bike. I also use full synth in my truck too for the same reason. Kind of like using 10w30 in the bedroom instead of KY. Might not lighten the wallet as much, but if you wanna ride a lot, the few extra pennies may pay dividends! LOL

I also use fully synthetic oils for engines and gearboxes. my ktm enduro bikes get new engine oil every 7.5 hrs and the gearboxes get new oil every 15 hours. My ancient van gets fresh semi synth oil every 5,000 miles. So, motors are well attended to.

Chains on the other hand, aside from on my road bike, are sacrificial elements that together with brake pads, sprockets and tyres are on the bike for but a short time. Riding through the winter quogmyre here eats these consumable items and I have found that a lot of 'motorcycle specific' products are either inneffective or vastly overpriced - A well known brand of 'offroad' chain lube just doesn't compare to the longevity of chainsaw chain oil in testing conditions.

My bikes are also worth 'big bucks' and they are looked after in that manner; I dont see how the use of different lubes on sacrificial consumable parts would suggest otherwise, which is what I assume you are implying?

Must go - I have to get the ktm ready for the next mudfest:

* two new tyres (maxxis it and michelin s12 xc) - these will last 15 hours

* new oil/s (10w 50 castrol power 1 [fully synthetic]) - this will be renewed at 7.5 hours and 15 hours

* new brake pads (gold fren sintered) - these will last a maximum of 7 hours

* new chain (DID)

* new rear sprocket (supersprox stealth)

* new front sprocket (talon) - these will be renewed 3 times in the year.

Like shovelling coal into the firebox.

Forgive my semi rant.

I guess you could say it was today since i finished about 1:30am this morning...new clutch pack..BIG difference from the old swollen out of spec pack that was in it..

`For example, in my premix I only use full synthetic Belray H1R`

A couple of weeks ago, my son had a slight mishap on my Gasser while learning the finer points of wheelies:

I got a new midbox/silencer & some miscellaneous parts. Repaired the airbox & fender. Have a new throttle, and a new Leonelli kill button with the magnetic lanyard deal. Also should have a V-Mar Racing carb adapter coming as well, but that really has nothing to do with crash damage. This is what my poor bike looks like now:

Since I was going to have to "sacrifice" the stock graphics to patch up the airbox & fender, I decided to just take them all off the bike altogether. Will look at S3 or Jitsie graphics kits in the future, but I believe S3 is the only place making them for my old bike that I can get here in the States.

I patched up the airbox & fender with a cheap plastic welding kit. On the airbox, I also used some zip-ties & silicone seal as extra insurance. The fender came out horrible (the airbox won't win any prizes either, I'm thinking.... ). I reinforced it with stainless steel screen material, and attempted to fill in the stock holes. I'm just using tiny little zip-ties and the one bolt up front to hold the ugly fender on for the time being.

I know the bike looks pretty ugly, especially compared to how it did when I first bought it. But I'm able to ride again, and that means a lot to me.

Everything held up well for the ride I did yesterday, so I guess my repairs are successful, so far..... The exhaust has a black spark arrestor on the end of it (from a John Deere Gator; way cheaper than what you can buy from some trials shops here....) that I needed to ride in National Forest yesterday.....

Oh yeah, about the throttle: It has a feature that allows me to adjust a stop for the throttle tube, that prevents the throttle from fully opening. You can adjust how far it will open, sorta like what the old YZ minibikes had. This feature will be used when ANY new rider, or my son, rides this bike in the future.....

Jimmie

Hi Jimmie,

Glad to hear you are back up on the pegs! I actually think the bike looks cool without all the stickers. I don't know about you but I can not see the rear fender on my bike when I am riding. Function over flash is always better.

Keep your feet up!

Bill

Jimmie,

Great!! that you're back to riding.

You will LOVE that V-Mar carb adapter. I got one a few weeks ago and it makes airbox re-install SO much easier, makes such a more positive connection, I wish the bikes came with those things stock. I was able to install the adapter on the carb with the carb on the bike, but it would have been easier with the carb off. There are 3 small set screws that hold the adapter on, if you orient them just right you can get an allen wrench in there to tighten them.

Function over Fashion everytime, actually the plastic welding doesn't look bad. There is only so much that can be done and will never look like new..........unless you spend the $$$ on new.

Zippy,

I think I first read about the V-Mar Racing adapter here in this thread, after you got one & posted about it. Having once panicked (spelling?) because I thought I lost that stock rubber adapter, and having fought getting the airbox back on once I found that goofy rubber adapter, your post made a lot of good sense. I have one on order. And Thank You for the Head's Up! on the install of it. It's about time for a good carb leaning anyway, so I figured I'd simply take off the carb to do the install of the adapter......

And actually, I agree with you & Bill, and am not really into graphics all that much. Function is more important to me than looks on my bikes. Graphics seem to help sell a bike, and not much more, to my way of thinking. My wife complained when I took the stock graphics off this bike, and asked me when I was going ot get some more "stickers" to replace them. When I told her that I think aftermarket "stickers" were around $125 a set, with OEM even more money, she backed off a bit, hee hee. Those stock Gas Gas stickers are some of the toughest I've ever seen, however......

Where do you guys mount your magnetic/lanyard-style (Leonelli) kill switches? By the clutch perch/master cylinder, just like stock? Does that lanyard typically go around the left wrist? I've seen some with a coiled cord on the magnet dealie like a Slinky, mounted to the rider's belt, and one of those folks had the switch right in the middle of the handlebars, by the mounts.....

At any rate, it's GREAT to be riding again. I missed my 20 minute workouts in my yard......

Jimmie

Edited September 2, 201312 yr by mr neutron

I mounted mine on the left side...had a hard time finding them in the states so i ordered it from the Splat Shop. used it once so far..got arm pump in a section and was going over a rock..right hand had stopped working all of the sudden and I wicked the throttle..the bike launched over the rock right at the checker..he dived out of the way and the engine was off before it hit the ground...hope I dont have to use it again!

Biffsgasgas installed his in the stock location, left side next to clutch master cylinder, and wears the strap on his wrist.

A fun trick is to take the magnet attached to the lanyard and bring it sideways to the magnet on the handlebar. When you get close the magnet will circle the one on the handlebar. Simple things amuse me.