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So a quick update on this. I discovered thankfully that the source of the oil leak was not the seal on the flywheel side bearing, it was a bad copper washer on the case bolt. Easily solved. However, the tight mains are noisy. They shouldnt be of course, but I think I have figured out why. The chamfer on the inner race where they butt up against the crank is very small. MUCH smaller than the chamfer found on the OEM bearings. I was kindly sent pictures showing the difference in the chamfers (not having any of these available anymore). The XIU bearing chamfer is far too small in my opinion. What ends up happening is that the mains cannot get as close to the crank webs as they should. The wafer thin center gasket doesnt help. If they has used a normal thickness gasket, this wouldnt be an issue. So the whole lot ends up very tight and puts a lateral load on those mains which in my case is causing them to be noisy. I am expecting them to fail at some point and when that happens, I will be going back to the old style bearings for sure. The XIU's are way too tight prior to installation anyway. Even my supplier was shocked at how tight they were.

Looking for some advice please. I've striped my daughters txt125 07 engine to replace all the bearings, I've come to close casing up but as soon as I get them approximately 5mm or less from closed together the gearbox locks up, I've been through the gearbox diagrams multiple times and everything look right and turns freely prior to that last few mm. The only thing that looks odd to me is the way the clutch shaft butt's up against the casing needle bearing without a washer, up there wasn't one in there and there's non in the diagrams, any advice would be appreciated.

Steering bearings, wheels bearings, o-rings, bolts & nuts, fork gaskets and new tubes, 2k spray paint, spokes, exhaust, clutch & throttle cables, handlebar, grips, kickstart axle ...

I lightly touched up the bead ID as per feetupfun's suggestion, and used self tapping screws instead of rimlocks. After several rides it's still firmly in place 😄. When this tyre wears out I'll replace the rim with a tubeless type; I imagine the options for tubed tyres will dwindle even more in the future. Thanks for everyones help!

Custom sprockets: https://www.rebelgears.com/ https://www.supersprox.com/supersprox-custom/

Look on eBay for a sprocket blank you find the number of teeth and pitch but they normally have a small centre hole then get it machined out to suit your hub

Hi All, I am in need of a new alloy ( if possible ) rear sprocket for my 1969 AJS 37AT that I am busy building. I have attached a sketch of what I need. If I can get only get one that is close, then I am sure I can modify it to suit. The existing sprocket has been made from two steel sprockets and weighs the same as a baby hippo !! Has anyone had a bespoke sprocket made, and if so, where. Or can anyone point me in the right direction. Thks Bruce Watts AJS 37A Rear Sprocket.pdf

Have it re-anodized because they didn't do a good enough job the first time. Not just a 4RT problem, it can happen on any alloy rim when quality control lets something slide, such as on the pink rims that were suppose to be anodize red.

Simple green is NOT safe on anodized aluminum. It is too alkaline. Just Google the question and you’ll see. I once used it on a red anodized cassette on a bike and it faded it considerably.

I use Simple Green on everything. "has a mildly alkaline pH of 8.5 to 9.5." Can that corrode anodize? I have not seen this on other bikes.

As standard, parts book lists 4 studs with nuts, 4 bolts (2 different lengths). There is an increased possibility of stripped threads in the cylinder casting with bolts, maybe,

On the anodisation? What cleaner do you use? Sounds like oxidation. Id try some t-cut, cleaner wax doesn't have much abrasive in it

Could try a maroon scotch brite pad

Just buy a new rim and get the wheel rebuilt, Its the only way its going to be great again.

There is some kind of white residue primarily on the front wheel of my 2018. It looks sort of like mineral deposits from where water dried. Detergent, Isopropyl alcohol and acetone do not remove it. A carnauba cleaner wax removes some but is way too much work for old hands. The rag with cleaner turns black so maybe it is some kind of oxidation. Is there an easy way to remove it?

Failing to see how that could possibly work, to start with the coating is on the outside surface so this bushing is designed to slide against the lower leg bore and that would make it attached to the stanchion tube. Any reason nobody ever shows the stanchion tube?

Sorry I was at work. This is pictures of my fork and my new bottom bush. It stays inside the lower legs and does not come out with the stanchions.

I have both bushes to replace the old ones and I have removed both top ones and the plastic sleeves but am struggling with removing the bottom ones. thanks Chris

Get rid of the Bing get a new carb from inmotion

Mines all nuts on studs

Should these be nut on studs are are some bolts. Right hand rear where there should be a head stay is a bolt but the others as far as I can see are nuts on studs

Hi. Just got a 199A and the throttle seems very heavy and the carb spring quite strong, stronger than I remember. Does anyone know what the free length of the spring should be, the number of turns and the wire diameter. The old twist grip is knackered. Anyone recommend a fast or slow domino right angle twistgrip and suitable cable. Thanks Tony

So what is the part number and lets see them, the photos you attached are copied from a previous post and don't show the part you report to be struggling with. If your bottom bushing is not on the stanchion tube then it's not a bottom bushing.

Seem to be the most popular boots in my area, have seen comments saying they're a bit taller than other brands Mine are at least 5 years old & I'll probably replace them with another set in the future