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An error condition triggering the mode change makes sense. Based on your suggestion of unplugging the encoder, I powered on the bike with the encoder unplugged (and removed from the side of the motor). The modes were able to cycle through normally, but without the buzz that occurs on mode change. Also, there was no movement from the motor due to tickover being on, or throttle input. I've ordered some connectors to help bench test the encoder. I wanted to see if I could catch an erratic change in the sine or cos outputs while jigging things (only using a multimeter). An oscilloscope would be better. I've been considering getting one for a while now, and this problem may prompt me to pull the trigger. Ideally I'd like to collect the signals while riding and see if the data shows a glitch when the mode changes unexpectedly.

This is a 50cc since the cylinder code is 273C. The franco morini m65-C engine has the cylinder code 273E, pinasco 74 has the code 273A, italkit 74 has the code 273D and polini has the code 305. The code is printed on the right side of the gilardoni writing on the cylinder.

Plug color is a bit uneven but doesn't look too bad. It doesn't smoke. I am running much leaner than stock jetting. When I got it in 2018, it had the factory jetting of 27.5 pilot and 120 main but ran poorly. The advice was to go richer but when I went that way it was worse so I went the other way. It kept running better the leaner it got so I ended up with 17.5 and 115 which is much leaner than all recommendations. The engine is getting up near 300 run hours so I wonder if it has slightly less vacuum and is less tolerant of lean jetting.

I just looked at the 2022 switchgear (P/N TL02R-60407-00-00) in case it was different from my 2021. The 2022 also has a single button to scroll through the maps. So transitioning directly from Blue to Green is not possible via the normal map-change firmware sequence. That makes it seem like a controller error condition triggering the change. The siliXcon controller can be configured to run "sensorless", and may be doing that as a fallback for a glitchy position encoder. In which case, it may be changing to the softest map as well. What happens if you unplug the encoder and attempt to ride the bike? Do you have access to an oscilloscope?

The spring loaded pawls in the selector mechanism have a cut-out. Should this face inward to the spring or outwards to the drum?

CV carburetor running lean, just like CV carbs were designed to do. You might try raising the needle if the problem happens at greater throttle opening. What does the spark plug look like? & does it smoke at the exhaust &/or is the engine full of carbon ?

Just stick the carb off the old engine onto it.

I’m having an intermittent problem with my 2022 Epure Race. A couple of days ago, I started riding in blue mode with tick over on. Very quickly, it switched to green. Pushing the selector button again to blue, it again switched back to green when riding a short distance (it stayed in the same TKO mode). I rode back to the van, took off the covers, wiggling wires and harnesses did not trigger it. What did trigger it was hitting the right side of the motor with the palm of my hand. It was surprisingly easy to trigger it this way. Also, tilting the bike to the extreme left triggered it. Unfortunately, the problem stopped after about 15 minutes and I haven't been able to trigger it so easily. I rode for over an hour with it happening once or twice. Once I did get the map button flashing red, but that went away when pulling off the tether. Suspecting the issue was related to the motor encoder, I disassembled to inspect. The photos show what it looks like. The JST connector is for a thermistor. I put on a test plug and measured the resistance while warming the engine case. It appears to be working properly (no spikes or drops when warming with a heat gun or hitting the engine case with my hand). It possibly could be the encoder itself. I've fixed other intermittent problems such as faulty progressive regen harness and faulty TKO switch. These other problems caused issues consistent with the component. For example, the power would cut out when I had a faulty regen harness. With a faulty TKO button when hitting a bump, the mode would switch to green and change the TKO mode. I hardwired the TKO mode to be on (a few months ago) since I never ride with TKO off. For the current problem I'm looking for some pointers. For example, would a flakey encoder cause a sudden switch from blue to green? The bike was in my van which was about 10 degrees warmer than outside. The problem started immediately when starting to ride, but stopped after about 15 minutes. It wasn't a hot day, but the van was a little warmer. I’m speculating that there may be some correlation with the temperature change.

I have a 2016 300 4T standard model. It has started to produce a little pop in the exhaust when closing the throttle from small to moderate openings. The pop is not loud but sort of echos in the exhaust. It starts, idles and runs well but has become cold blooded so needs to run for several minutes before it will take any throttle when cold started. I checked valve clearances and cleaned the carb with no affect. This is with California pump gas. Has anyone experienced this? I'm not sure if I should go up on the pilot size or raise the needle. Carb access is not great on this bike.

There is a NOS kick lever and shift lever listed for sale locally. I'm in the USA.

Hi all, I have recently acquired a 1984 ty 250 (Canadian model) I am wanting to restore the bike to original condition, ie - all original stickers included. The headstock has a sticker with the model information, but part of it is missing. I'm wondering if there is anyone here who can help with a pic of one. The one on my frame has the model numbers etc, but I need a pic of a complete one in order to have a new one made. Thanks in advance!

I was wondering about this adjustment. I have one with a broken cable I recently fixed. I adjusted it for Freeplay at idle. If you push on the lever you can feel it against the rotating cam. With this proper adjustment number from the book, I am in spec. Good forum.

Awesome insight, thanks all! super helpful. Appreciated greatly

If your rear drum is worn (bigger than standard), new shoes will not match the curvature of the drum, causing the friction material to have a reduced contact patch area. If you have your shoes relined and machined as Kurtas suggested, the friction material curvature can be matched to your drum curvature, giving full contact surface area. To determine if this is your problem, pull the rear wheel out and have a look at the friction material. It will be shiny where it is touching. The areas that are shiny are the only bits that are doing anything to slow your bike down. The other aspect of your brake performance is that the co-efficient of friction of your lining material may not be as high as what is available, so when the shoes get lined, choose a material that increases the co-efficient of friction.

EBC are ok but they are not peak performance which you seem to be after. An example of someone who does it below but you coould find someone who does it for forklifts or the like locally to you. https://villiersservices.co.uk/product/brake-shoe-re-lining-service/

Thanks Kurtas, pads have been in a few months - front works OK (and is new too).. im not sure what you mean by 'having pads of a suitable friction material applied to brake shoe'? i thought the EBC were a good choice? i swapped them out from the original OEM that still had some life left in them, but they really sucked, so had expected some improvement with the EBC...just exploring options - hence wondering about that brake extender arm...if there is a better brake pad i can get lmk! i ride on the road so just need something that inspires a little more confidence!

It takes some time for pads to bed in and have full contact with the drum. You might want to go down the path of having pads of a suitable friction material applied to the brake shoe so you can match the diameter of your drum.

Thanks RonH. Unfortunately they don’t ship to the US.

Welcome to the forum! I found the following. Hope it helps. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204636602989

Hey there, I’m new to the forum and to trials. I am restoring an older gas gas. It is it getting any spark and I’m thinking the ignition module is bad. It’s a motoplat with the numbers 06 10 on it. Any idea where k can get parts for this machine? Thank you. brian

Hey friends, any thoughts on this for the reflex? I've installed new EBC grooved pads but rear brake is still terrible! - is re machining the drum a better option? thanks for any insight before i drop some $$

Thanks, so headlight off, and connect it to the horn. Brliiant, easier than i thought!!

In my "spam" folder this morning ticket discounts - looks like the GP is in UK again next year after the fantastic event at Kettering this year. The 26 event will be in Anglesey at the venue that was cancelled the last time round. I hope they get it right this time.

Horns draw a considerable amount of power, even more when they get old and rusty or full of water. ~30 watts is typical, the 4RT has a significant large alternator on board to accommodate the fuel pump and fan, the alternator windings are oil cooled which works brilliantly if you should be stressing the limits. Conserving power consumption from other accessories such as the high beam and horn leaves that power for your little heat strips. I would be way more concerned about cooking the stator by running heaters on my TRS. I don't winter ride the lakes much I ride the same back woods trails we ride the rest of the year, way more fun . Competition soft compound tires can't withstand much below single digit minus centigrade temperatures and a heated garage with the riding area right outside my door makes it possible, caution that at minus 22C riding the knobs will peal right off your rear tire. Stored in extreme cold trials tires crack the sidewalls if you leave the bike sitting on them at low pressure. When you are running 1740 GripStuds in subzero temps on ice and snow it is advisable to run higher then normal low tire pressures so that the sidewalls don't crack so badly, 👍 studded trials tires are awesome fun and extend the riding season by months here. Since running studded tires I even look forward to winter riding 😎

I'm fussy with gloves, and have tried the heatpacks to no avail. I get what your saying about clutch/brake finger, thats the 1 that struggles, am hoping a warm bar will be enough to defrost it. Are you being serious, i can really drive it from the horn wiring? I've ridden the 4ride in sub zero temps several times, and never had starting issues. It's used more for technical single track than trials type stuff.