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Also Video workshops at TRIALS PARTS USA on Youtube

Hello Manuals available at ww.thehellteam.com/tech support/gasgas info.

McMan, just in case you’re interested I found this Long Ride for you. It’s in Mt. Hood, Oregon but the price is fantastic. I live in Oregon but bought my bike from this site from a dealer in Georgia and had it shipped for $300. They routinely have some very good prices on bikes on the website. I got my 2023 Gasgas TXT 250, brand new, for $4500. I’m sure you want the standard version but I thought you might want to consider this one. Oh, I’m not affiliated with the bike or the shop in anyway so I’m not selling anything. https://motohunt.com/l/11480744/2023-Sherco-125-TY-Long-Ride

Ok great, that’s plenty to be getting on with. i was trying to adjust the lever to get it set perfectly tonight and when it’s held right into the grip/bar the bike was still creeping in 1st gear and I think that’s why I’m struggling to find neutral. I will have look at the clutch plates to start. Any ideas where you find a workshop manual? I have been pulling it close to the fulcrum point because my digit is not very long but I will try adjusting the controls around as well. thanks for the advice, really appreciated

Set the clutch plate pack thickness to the minimum thickness as advised in the manual and also use a AJP Large master cylinder if possible . There are AJP Clutch Master cylinders available with Large and small reservoirs. Also available are Braktec Clutch Master cylinders that are known incorrectly by the trials community as Braketech . Try googling them both and you will find out which is the correct one. Both are dot COM addresses. Use the long lever not a short or single digit mini blade and position the Master cylinder in board along the handle bar toward the handle bar clamps at the top triple clamp. Position the lever so that you are pulling it with one finger at the end near the ball for maximum leverage . Adjust the lever to move away or be nearer the handle bar grip using the 2 X adjusters one on the lever itself and one on the Master cylinder main body as shown in the Owners Manual. That's one way to get the easy pull at the clutch without it getting complicated and more involved plus more expensive.

I KNOW it is totally stock as I bought it brand new from BALANCE TRIALS SUPPLY in January 2022 an have the Certificate Of Origin that came with it and personally unboxed it.

I would like to give a Scorpa TY125 trials a try but they are very difficult to find in the US. Is it easy to convert the long ride version? There are a few of them. What are the differences?

Oh right, I’m with you, I believe it’s a 2006, it’s red and black and shiny. 😂 Are there any ways to adjust the weight of a diaphragm clutch?

The txt came in 1999 so it would help to know what year your bike is, if its the earlier <02 type clutch or the later txt pro >02 diaphragm clutch

Hi, iv got myself a crackin little bike that touch wood is running great. im after making the clutch a little lighter, I shot a nail through my left hand many moons ago and i think I could practice for longer if the lever had a lighter action. any tips or adjustments I can make? Iv seen online about sanding clutch plates and putting washers under springs. any advice would be greatly appreciated. many thanks

I think its just been proved its not totally stock 😂

Hi, I have just discovered a similar problem with a badly worn kickstart gear on the back of my 240 clutch drum. The fix posted by StevP 6 years ago sounds like a good solution, do you offer a service for this StevP? Has anyone found a cost effective solution to this problem?

Sorry about the late reply I don’t get notifications for this for some reason, I can’t see it being the sprocket as when I pull the clutch in it goes away even if I coast at 15mph if I pull the clutch in the noise stops even when both sprockets/chain are still moving but I’ll get the chain off and start with that, thanks bud

Exact replacements for that Whitehawk 175 cover are hard to find since they’re usually discontinued. Your best option is a custom seat upholstery shop that can copy the original black surround with red quilted centre design, or check marketplaces like eBay for old stock or used parts.

THANKS for all the quick responses! I should have said in my original post that the bike is TOTALLY STOCK.

Sounds like your bike has a Tubliss installed based on a few points. My rim lock is 180° from the valve stem, 4 spokes away is how far the two valve stems are supposed to be with a Tubliss system. Also you're describing the Tubless valve stem/rim lock. The normal looking valve stem is for the small inner tube and I believe they are supposed to be like 110PSI. The bigger, odd looking valve stem is for the tire.

Stock bike has 1 valve stem plus 1 rim lock, the front rim lock is critical to keep the tire from sliding on the rim as a result of hard braking and the low tire pressure we typically run on trials bikes. If the valve stem goes crooked your rim lock was not tight enough, front wheel stem will always go crooked in the direction of braking. If the rim lock has a cap on it somebody just put it on there as spare part. If you actually did find 2 air valves on one tire and one is a smaller valve type, you likely have a Tubliss (run flat) tube installed and that's a little more complicated and not stock equipment.

New piston 👍

I'd definitely remove the ring at the base of the schrader valve. If the tube does move it's best not to have that in place as might tear the tube off the valve.

Yes the other stem with no hole is probably the rim lock/tyre clamp. Front wheels on trials bikes usually have one rim lock. The leaning tube stem may not be due to the tyre slipping on the rim. The more common cause for the tube stem leaning is that the tube has moved relative to the tyre and rim. To determine what is causing your tube stem to lean over, you can put marks on the tyre and the rim that are in alignment. If the marks separate during riding and the stem lean changes, then the tyre is slipping. If the marks stay aligned but the tube stem lean changes, then the tube is moving within the tyre. If you want to get the tube stem back perpendicular again at any point, let the air out, loosen the tyre clamp, push the beads inwards off the rim and rotate the tyre relative to the rim, then pressurise the tube to reseat the tyre and tighten the tyre clamp. To prevent the tube moving inside the tyre, you can either make the contact between the tyre and the tube very grippy (clean the tube and tyre internals thoroughly) or very slippery (clean the contact area and when dry, put lots of talcum powder in there). If neither of these methods stops the tube moving inside the tyre, fit a different size or brand tube. If your tube is on the big side for the tyre, fit a smaller section tube. If your tube is on the small side for the tyre, fit a bigger section tube. If your tyre really is slipping on the rim, check the size of the rim lock is the right size for the rim and check for damage to the rim lock. If you can see a decent witness inside the tyre beads where the clamp has been gripping them, it is most likely doing a good job.

The front wheel has the normal shrader valve stem wirh a small knurled ring at the base. This stem works to accept air to inflate the tire. It also has another "stem" that is 4 spokes away that has a bright red shiney rounded aluminum cap on the end. Under the cap It looks like it "might" be able to recieve air (but is does not) then below the area where the red cap mounts this stem gets about 50% larger in diameter and has very course threads. A flanged nut is threaded onto this part of the stem and the flange is in contact with the rim. It might be a rim lock to prevent the tire from slipping on the rim. My tire has apparently sliped a little bit on the rim as the "normal shrader valve stem wirh a small knurled ring at the base" is a little bit off perpendicular to the rim. Any help will be appreciated and if anyone has a link to some explanation of this it would be great. THANKS!

Its a tlr200 that he is fitting the brake hub off a TLR 250 into so it may need a custom spacer?. As you said just measure it and make one by buying a piece of aluminium tube of the correct dimensions then cut it to the length you need. Its very simple.really .it will also be cheaper than buying a spacer. For some reason spacers cost as much as an axle? Chinese pit bikes have 15mm axles so he could find a spacer set for one of those at Red Circles or somewhere like that for pennies . If only people could be bothered to do a google search then they could find what they needed.

Hello. The Jitsie Glow is a solid choice overall. It does what it claims in terms of being windproof and waterproof, and the added hood makes it handy off the bike as well. It’s more of a practical all-weather riding jacket than a heavily armoured piece, so it’s great for comfort and staying dry rather than protection on its own. For the price, it’s fairly reasonable considering it’s on par with branded outdoor jackets, and many riders use it for exactly the kind of mixed riding you’re talking about. The main thing is making sure it fits well in a riding position and works with layers underneath. If that checks out, it’s a good option.

I hope Pete's OK

That looks great. well done