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Not unusual really, same as TLR's albeit they are cable operated......

I had the clutch cover off and am struggling to understand how the clutch actuator works. Every bike I remember controls the bike from the opposite side of the engine. A rod goes through and pushes the pressure plate out to create clearance and release the clutch. On this bike, the slave cylinder pushes in the opposite direction. So, is the movable pressure plate on the back side of the clutch pack when compared to other bikes? The parts list looks like that.

Hi all, has anybody removed the baffle from their modern 2 stroke trials expansion chamber? Seems a bit odd as it's the worst place for trapping unburned fuel/oil mix, and kinda negates the point of an expansion chamber in the first place?

Or this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/376665968838?chn=ps&_ul=GB&var=645264625710&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1kL_m6yi5R4-BWruA4BSmVA13&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-173151-921626-2&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=645264625710_376665968838&targetid=2448003509029&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9190959&poi=&campaignid=22924815337&mkgroupid=183371074490&rlsatarget=aud-2317547358629:pla-2448003509029&abcId=10425036&merchantid=5631438962&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22924815337&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1dnIkdoNdVfCbDEXvX4OtSA_&gclid=CjwKCAiA2svIBhB-EiwARWDPjn8ILoYjk45RuGuHPej4d8KMDBmpi9uoV9sY6kEm_GYT4-8VSWNfthoCeHEQAvD_BwE Why the massive price difference?

Hey I've got the same issue with my Bing 84 - not able to find replacement O-rings, choke rubber and gasket kit which have all perished. Is the below link what I should go for, for a straight swap? It's for a Sherpa T 350 1975 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301495710655

Thanks guys this is all I need. A new Dellorto from In Motion it is! Over and out

Mikuni or Keihin or OKO or Dell Orto are all a better option. Keihin most expensive. OKO least expensive.

Ye that's the right one. Never liked them it will.most likely be worn so get a new dellorto from in motion comes jetted to suit and better carb

Hello there I have a Bing 84 fitted on my 1975 Sherpa which needs new gaskets and O rings, but the price I found online is the same as whole new carburettor! Therefore I’m wondering if: A. Is this is the right carb for the bike? B. Where I can find a cheap rebuild kit so it runs properly? C. Can I put a new carb on it? I don’t know much about this bike so any help is much appreciated. Thanks Tom

The other replies are spot on, but the top hat washers on the springs on some beta models are also worth checking. They can be fitted either way up for more or less preload which makes a big difference to how the clutch feels. While you're in there there's a shim and a spec for the clearance at the end of the push rod, it's worth checking while you're on but it mainly affects drag.

Don't know about EM's but the small Mecatecno's had 5 volt going to the throttle, if the throttle was closed, the control unit expected 0 volt to return. If the control unit received any voltage it wouldn't switch on. If the kids dropped the bike in water it was only a few weeks before this problem materialised, I kept a spare throttle in the tool box when we were competing.

I'd say step one should be identify your location so somebody might be able to help you.

Gear oil is crucial with the Beta clutch. When I had one I found that Putoline Nano-trans gave me the best clutch feel and progression.

Last weekend threw up a problem on my 2023 ePure Race. After about 2 hours of practice riding I returned to my car and parked up. A few minutes later I was going to take the lazy way out and ride the bike round in a circle to load up. However I couldn't, because every time I attached the lanyard I got the beeps that say "You've got some throttle on so I'm not going to let you select a map." I fiddled with the lanyard and the throttle, switched off and on, but nothing solved it so I pushed the bike. At least I was lucky it didn't do it at the far end of the site which would have left me with a 1 mile uphill push 😱.So today I have dug into things further. I tried switching to the training throttle connection (T1/T2. I've now forgotten which is which so that will be another small problem when I come to put things back together.). Same problem. I took the throttle apart to make sure the potentiometer was fully back against the stop. It was, and still the same problem. I'm struggling to see what my next logical step should be. I don't want to just be randomly changing parts until something works. Any ideas, anyone?

There is a new release to the TechnoVideoMoto-trials YouTube channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMeRIlapdX-84E-cOV0vPZg/ Since the USA Men were victorious for the first time in 20 years, I thought it would be fitting to show the very first time the guys were able to top the podium. Part 1 showcases the men's event. https://youtu.be/m5AgrnNc2fc Geoff Aaron, Jess Kempkes, Ray Peters and Cory Pincock from the USA. World riders including Doug Lampkin, Steve Colley, Takahisa Fujinami, Kenichi Kuroyama, Albert Cabestany, Marc Colomer, Marc Freixa, Tommi Ahvala, Diego Bosis and more. Part 2 features the women's event. https://youtu.be/V_fk1ijcLxs Pam Debruin and Debbie Evans-Leavitt for the USA plus Kerrie Brokaw and Laura Bussing. Laia Sanz, Maria Conway, Iris Kramer, Christy Williams and Kerry Williams and others also rode. Also included are tours of the Honda-Montesa factory, GasGas factories, Spanish trials motorcycle display, Montesa museum and R&D site.

Hi, To anyone who is having trouble bleeding their trials rear brake. This just worked for me after spending a lot of time trying. Remove reservoir cap and empty fluid with a syringe. Then attach a pipe and syringe to the caliper bleed nipple and secure with a jubilee clip. Remove syringe plunger and fill with dot 4, allow air trapped in tube to rise then put plunger in syringe. Open bleed nipple and force fluid back to reservoir, emptying with a second syringe. Once done couple times, leave reservoir filled and put cap back on. Then open bleed nipple and pressurise caliper with the syringe and close nipple whilst keeping pressure on syringe. Keep syringe attached and with fluid in at all times, no air. worked for me after rebuilding master cylinder and buyer a new caliper aswell. Might be of help to someone.

I read that to test theamount of water in oil , heat some metal up and drop a drop of contaminated oil on it , if it fizzes lthen it needs changing , if it does not then it might only be the discolourisation you are noticing from the prevous seal failure. It should be ok on the 2,d or 3rd oil change, get the bike warm for a good 30 minutes to see if it evaporates and changes colour.

Yes I am sure it is , use whatever works to stop the loss of air.

It's a well tested and proven fact that cyanoacrylate adhesive is far superior to bung plugs when you want to field repair a slice or puncture in a trials tire, particularly if it is in the sidewall of a 2 ply trials tire, plugs will just make a mess of the damaged area when it's a sidewall split.

It is a lost in translation thing . https://www.trialsuk.co.uk/puncture-repair/Apico-puncture-Repair-Strips---Tubeless-Tyres---Pack-30

... no dude that's just plain stupid.

Yep, looks like an 11 racing to me

Yes and a packet of dog turds.

For puncture resistance on rocks yes of course , as far as I am aware X light is for indoor trials. It would be odd if a major tyre manufacturer would spend an astronomical amount of money on tooling and R&D to produce a tyre that a few trials clubmen had suggested as a desired option while chatting in a bar. I am going to guess that its development was requested by the elite riders specifically for indoor events in the same way that Adam Raga requested that the older GASGAS would benefit from losing a lot of weight to help with hopping and skipping around which resulted in the pro version.

Good evening. Thank you for accepting me. I've been practicing trials riding since I was 8 years old, always with Bultaco. My last bike was a Sherpa 350. Now, at 56 years old (oops!), I'm getting back in the saddle. I bought a Gas Gas TXT300R, disassembled. I found that the kickstart pinion is bad, as is the drive pinion. I've already ordered the replacement parts. I'll finish putting it together this week. Otherwise, it's pretty complete. I have a question about the VIN. According to the paperwork, it's a 2008 model, but it looks more like a 2011 to me. Could you help me? Thank you very much. I've attached a photo and the VIN. Thanks. VIN: VTRTG3003M0116194