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I find it amazing too. I believe the impetus for Honda to create batteryless fuel injection was the millions of small motor scooters in countries like Vietnam and Thailand. There was a need to reduce air pollution and that would require fuel injection to replace carburettors. Whilst these scooters had batteries fitted when new, the owners are often too poor to afford a replacement battery down the track. Hence the need for batteryless fuel injection. From there, it made it's way into trials bikes. Honda did an impressive job. Both of my 4RTs have been excellent starters. They can sit for a couple of months yet still start first kick (no more than two).

Le remplacement des joints d'amortisseur/de fourche Paioli implique le démontage des tubes de fourche, le retrait des anciens joints et l'installation de nouveaux joints (généralement de 35 mm ou 38 mm) à l'aide d'un outil d'insertion. Cette opération nécessite de retirer le bouchon supérieur, de vidanger l'huile, de retirer la vis inférieure et de séparer les tubes par un mouvement de glissement. Les étapes clés comprennent le nettoyage des composants, la lubrification des nouveaux joints et le respect de leur orientation correcte.

This is a fascinating read, mostly beyond my understanding but it somewhat makes sense. It baffles me how all this was conceived in the first place. Was it by clever men in sheds smoking a pipe jotting things down or was it all computer simulations? Even if it was computer simulations, getting it to work in real world trials senarios completely reliable and virtually unchanged for 20 odd years is something else. Carry on with the good work

samsbikes@yahoo.co.uk hi is it possible to send me a copy of the KScan diagnostic software it would be much appreciated thanks and all the best Darren,I'm willing to pay for it thank again Darren

Hi, is it possible to send me a copy of the KScan diagnostic software,it would be much appreciated if you can.thanks and all the best Darren my email is samsbikes@yahoo.co.uk I'm willing to pay for it thank again Darren

Hi, is it possible for you to send me a copy of the KScan diagnostic software it would be much appreciated if you can thanks and all the best Darren, my email is samsbikes@yahoo.co.uk

Good evening Honda Freak. I looked up that WPS500X pressure transducer. Very nice bit of kit but not cheap. I am a bit surprised that you did your test at Wide Open Throttle. I understand why, but I was under the impression that at WOT, the bike wouldn't fire because the ignition and fuel were shut off. Maybe it just cuts off the fuel injector and adds the extra spark as you said. I will include that in my testing. I was unable to find a free copy of those SAE papers but I have read some of it before. But thank you for the information. Anyway, I am creating a schedule of oscilloscope tests to perform once the weather cools off... 1. Cold kick cranking. Spark plug removed. Timebase to capture the first few rotations (20mS/div). This is to hopefully duplicate your capture. 2. Cold crank and start. Timebase to capture 10 to 20 seconds (2S/div). Then zoom in to inspect the first few revolutions compared to the last few. Locate any transition from wasted spark to normal running. 3. Run, shutdown, and immediately restart. Inspect first few cycles to see if it is wasted spark or not. 4. Wide Open Throttle cranking. Inspect for ignition and/or fuel injection cut-off. 5. If there is a transition from wasted spark to normal running, monitor the ECU "Power Relay" (engine running signal) to see if that aligns with the change. That is the Yellow/Green wire that turns on the headlight relay about half a second after starting. I know many people are asking "why" but like you, I'm just curious. And it wouldn't hurt to have some baseline data if the bike ever plays up.

Hi I have a question for the guru's out there. I have a 2010 TXT Pro 250. Lest year I noticed that there was fuel in the gearbox oil when I changed it. That precipitated a complete engine rebuild. Glad I did it because it was pretty worn. I had only had the bike a few months and bought it to get into trials (a decision I dont regret for one minute ) I bought literally every seal and bearing, clutch, top end, crank was rebuilt as well. When it came to fitting the main bearings I took them out of the box (The new style XiU-rdiOnes) they were so tight that it was impossible to rotate them. IN other words, you could not rotate the inner of the bearing at all. Even with significant force. I was told that they are quite tight, but this seemed insane. Anyway, went ahead with fitting, cases heated, bearings frozen. Tough to get them in, but they were seated. Bolted the cases up and the crank was literally solid. I have rebuilt many many engines over the years and I have never seen a set of bearings this tight. The crank could only be rotated by popping a high torque cordless drill onto it. After a few minutes of this, I could now rotate the crank (just) by hand. This really didnt seem right to me. Anyway, I was assured by some that this is normal for these motors. It started up fine and ran well. However, there was a constant loud whirring noise which was not there before. It did get slightly less, but has not gone away. After a few rides I noticed that it is starting to use gearbox oil, but it doesnt smoke. So I popped off the flywheel cover and its full of oil. So the left side seal/bearing is failing obviously. So it all has to come apart again and get some more fresh mains and seals. My main question here is about those bearings. Are they really meant to be that tight? I cannot believe that they should be that tight. Surely this will generate massive heat and possibly destroy the seal and the o-rings in the bearing? I have never come across a main bearing that cannot be rotated by hand (unless it is seized) brand new out of the box. Makes me think that I was supplied a bad set of mains? Thoughts anyone? Nigel

Hi guys doing some research before attempting to change the crank seal on my 2011 raga 280.. any how to videos or advice appreciated..! thanks for any info..!

Receipt 40105424.PDF https://www.mcmaster.com/products/91437a555/id~16-mm/thickness~0-005/ https://www.mcmaster.com/products/91437a555/id~16-mm/thickness~0-005/thickness~0-01/

Hello Does anyone knows where to buy the plates that are used in a pete kirby bsa clutch? I have 2 early clutches and i want to fit the newer type plates but i cant find them. I am not able to contact Pete for info. Regards Bob

Values are quite sensible where I live

My method of a window on both sides is easy to repack again by removing the rivets but this guy details his welding method.

Hi Chris After reading your comment and thinking about what could trigger this extra ignition event, I largely agree with your second explanation for a misfire. Since this is a compression test, I held the throttle wide open for maximum air intake, and perhaps this could create an extra ignition event? That's my best guess. For my compression test, I used the WPS500X pressure transducer from Picoscope with 3 measurement ranges, which is a great diagnostic tool for many different things. If you are interested in learning more about batteryless systems, I can recommend this document from SAE.ORG entitled "Implementing Software and Hardware Solutions for Batteryless Systems" JSAE 20139094, which describes many of the issues associated with starting a single cylinder 4-stroke engine. It is a very detailed document that provides many new perspectives on the internal processing of the ECU. I have a feeling that the document is based on data on batteryless systems from Honda - as there are references to a document entitled "SAE TECHNICAL PAPER: JSAE 20066507", which deals with the development of electrical systems for four-stroke motorcycles for trials motorcycles. There are also many other references in the document, so all in all a very interesting piece of technical literature - which can certainly be used for a broader insight into troubleshooting a motorcycle equipped with a batteryless system. Regards Honda Freak

Hi all where can I get the difrent sized shims for the clutch adjustment as my clutch slips badly when the clutch gets hot. Thought I was wheel spinning antill my m8 said its not spinning the wheel.

Hi all I've had my 1981 199b for about 3 years now it was a bit neglected when I bought it since then I've replaced a lot of parts,paint work ect,new tyres I'd like to move it on as the wife doesn't want me to do any silly off road stuff just wondering what values are at this time,road registered with lighting kit ect

About 4 rides I think. i haven't ridden them in wet conditions yet so that is still a question mark.

Hi, old thread I know but does anyone have the file to 3d print this box ? TIA

I take it you don't trust their claims. Not really surprising I suppose in a world of lies/liars. Its made in the usa by an american company so its got be your first choice really. Regards Alan

Bonsoir, debutant le trial j ai acquis une beta rev 3 année 2006 malheureusement je recherche des documents pour le demontage de mon amortisseur et changement de joints (Paioli ) "et oui 56 ans mon tour viendra 😀" merci de votre aide

Bonsoir, debutant le trial j ai acquis une beta rev 3 année 2006 malheureusement je recherche des documents pour le demontage de mon amortisseur et changement de joints (Paioli ) "et oui 56 ans mon tour viendra 😀" merci de votre aide

Wanted to revive an old thread. The biggest benefit I see to Evans is the fact that it's waterless and should help resist corrosion for those of us with magnesium engine cases. However, once you factor in the Prep Fluid you're spending about $70 for the Evans Package. I also don't love the super high boiling point. I'm also considering Maxima Coolanol. They claim to use deionized water and that it's safe for magnesium cases. It's also less than $20! What are the thoughts from the group?

If I was using a wasted spark ignition (ignition pick-up located on the crankshaft and not on the valve drive which rotates at half crank speed) and needed to apply a fuel injection cycle only on the intake stroke 🤔 I think I would make the fuel circuit dependent on high vacuum pressure being present at the throttle body. Poor starting was always the result of improper valve clearance on all five of the 4RT's I owned.

Cookiemonster, all sorted with Hastings now but thanks for the reply

I’m with TDA used to be called BE MOTO have you tried them?