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Horns draw a considerable amount of power, even more when they get old and rusty or full of water. ~30 watts is typical, the 4RT has a significant large alternator on board to accommodate the fuel pump and fan, the alternator windings are oil cooled which works brilliantly if you should be stressing the limits. Conserving power consumption from other accessories such as the high beam and horn leaves that power for your little heat strips. I would be way more concerned about cooking the stator by running heaters on my TRS. I don't winter ride the lakes much I ride the same back woods trails we ride the rest of the year, way more fun . Competition soft compound tires can't withstand much below single digit minus centigrade temperatures and a heated garage with the riding area right outside my door makes it possible, caution that at minus 22C riding the knobs will peal right off your rear tire. Stored in extreme cold trials tires crack the sidewalls if you leave the bike sitting on them at low pressure. When you are running 1740 GripStuds in subzero temps on ice and snow it is advisable to run higher then normal low tire pressures so that the sidewalls don't crack so badly, 👍 studded trials tires are awesome fun and extend the riding season by months here. Since running studded tires I even look forward to winter riding 😎

I'm fussy with gloves, and have tried the heatpacks to no avail. I get what your saying about clutch/brake finger, thats the 1 that struggles, am hoping a warm bar will be enough to defrost it. Are you being serious, i can really drive it from the horn wiring? I've ridden the 4ride in sub zero temps several times, and never had starting issues. It's used more for technical single track than trials type stuff.

They are here: https://www.baselinemarine.com/shopexd.asp?id=544

That's are excellent observation that I know would be true. When I used to ride motorcycles on frozen lakes, a set of handlebar mittens was mandatory. These were permanently attached to the handlebars, and covered all the controls (and you still wore riding gloves). I think they were called Hippo Hands, but their current design is really different from what I remember. Maybe the ones for MTBs would be most appropriate?

One problem you might encounter with the 4RT in winter is sub-zero engine starting as I did, if your engine oil gets too cold it will make cold starting difficult to impossible. I even tested 0W winter grade engine oil but had no success with that. Be ready to build a small fire under your bike to sub-zero cold start it.

Better control over the operating temperature sounds like a very good idea, I have the heated grips on a little snowmobile and find the heat too intense to operate continuously and need to toggle the heaters on and off to reduce the intensity to a tolerable rate. When I winter ride my trials bike it is the clutch lever finger that freezes first and has me pausing regularly to warm my fingers on the engine, the grip heaters do little to address that. Hotshots chemical heat packs inserted into the back of your regular riding gloves work as an alternative to the grip heaters, but similarly do little to warm the lever fingers. I have heard of local riders using the electric heaters on the control levers instead of the grips, but have not personally attempted that yet.

I will cheers

Try central wheels

Heated gloves might consume less power. 13W each 26 total and you can get a controller to adjust heat better. example: gloves https://www.gerbing.com/collections/12v-heated-gloves/products/gerbing-12v-heated-glove-liners?variant=45244436054307 controller https://www.gerbing.com/collections/heated-motorcycle-plugs-and-temperature-controllers/products/gerbing-12v-single-zone-temperature-controller-knobbed?variant=44879387394339

Roughly the same power as your horn. 🤓 Don't use the horn at the same time as your heated grips and there should be no issue.

Has anyone fitted heated grips to a 4ride (or a 4RT assuming they are the same) ? Splat shop do some sticky back heated elements that you then slip normal grips over the top, it says they consume 36W, will my 4 ride have enough power to drive them? And where am i best tapping into the wiring loom to take the feed?

Inch Perfect have a pre-order email out today. There are 125 250 and 300cc versions. Price is TBA. https://beta-uk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=21684

Thanks for posting that alternative. About time. Electric and RHS starters will make me consider Beta again. I've had two and consider the starting dumb. Actually- why was the lever 3" too short? Actually my Beta dirtbike (ok so 3 Betas) has Electric. A couple of kilos means Im not puffing every section before I start riding my TRS which is an advantage over my Betas and GGs. For the Club rider this is a real advantage. Good on Beta.

Throttle pulley size is a personal preference thing, like bar position, lever position etc. I use the slow twistgrip on my 250 MAR and throttle control is exactly how I like it.

To me, the best thing about the solid separator/electrolyte is that it brings a significant safety improvement. It's much less prone to thermal runaway, and therefore reduces the risk of fire.

Sorry if this is the wrong place for this - logically to me it belongs in EM. The only fault I can find with the latest EM bikes is that they are a bit heavier than the ICE alternative. With solid state batteries soon to be a feature of the light car market I wonder if this will be the next development for electric trials bikes? The downside is going to be cost andalready the EM is more expensive than a Montesa or similar, but to be fair not by much. Anyway some news on this front in my feed propted me to look at this road bike development: https://www.ducati.com/ww/en/news/ducati-s-electric-research-continues-with-the-v21l-prototype-and-solid-state-batteries I guess this one will not be cheap 🤣

Many thanks 👍

I saw some made from stainless steel last weekend. A friend had a few custom buckles for trials helmets made locally. While it sounds like a good idea, non-OEM helmet parts or modifications will render a helmet non-compliant in a legal sense.

Need a new throttle assembly, anyone experiment with the Domino fast vs. slow on an OSSA MAR 250?

Just an update, all working and starting fine after new coil pack and condenser 👍🏻 thanks all

Airoh helmets STILL have buckles that rust through. I have been investigating stainless steel buckles for 20mm webbing straps, but can only find them for 25mm webbing straps. Anyone found a source of stainless steel buckles for 20mm straps?

In the US you have Hogans, Alex Snoop, Keith Lynas, Vintco

Go to www.todotrial.com and change the language at the top right of the page all the info there.

Some questions come to mind: - Will they offer the same engine capacities? - How easy is it to access the carb? - Where is the e-start battery located? - Does the starter have an over running clutch or solenoid? - How much weight does e-start add? - Did they change the kickstand mount?

Well, at least they put the kickstarter on the "normal" side. Wonder if that is going to annoy long-time Beta purists? But the cylinder reeds are a compromise so they could put the e-start motor where it is.