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samsbikes@yahoo.co.uk hi is it possible to send me a copy of the KScan diagnostic software it would be much appreciated thanks and all the best Darren,I'm willing to pay for it thank again Darren

Hi, is it possible to send me a copy of the KScan diagnostic software,it would be much appreciated if you can.thanks and all the best Darren my email is samsbikes@yahoo.co.uk I'm willing to pay for it thank again Darren

Hi, is it possible for you to send me a copy of the KScan diagnostic software it would be much appreciated if you can thanks and all the best Darren, my email is samsbikes@yahoo.co.uk

Good evening Honda Freak. I looked up that WPS500X pressure transducer. Very nice bit of kit but not cheap. I am a bit surprised that you did your test at Wide Open Throttle. I understand why, but I was under the impression that at WOT, the bike wouldn't fire because the ignition and fuel were shut off. Maybe it just cuts off the fuel injector and adds the extra spark as you said. I will include that in my testing. I was unable to find a free copy of those SAE papers but I have read some of it before. But thank you for the information. Anyway, I am creating a schedule of oscilloscope tests to perform once the weather cools off... 1. Cold kick cranking. Spark plug removed. Timebase to capture the first few rotations (20mS/div). This is to hopefully duplicate your capture. 2. Cold crank and start. Timebase to capture 10 to 20 seconds (2S/div). Then zoom in to inspect the first few revolutions compared to the last few. Locate any transition from wasted spark to normal running. 3. Run, shutdown, and immediately restart. Inspect first few cycles to see if it is wasted spark or not. 4. Wide Open Throttle cranking. Inspect for ignition and/or fuel injection cut-off. 5. If there is a transition from wasted spark to normal running, monitor the ECU "Power Relay" (engine running signal) to see if that aligns with the change. That is the Yellow/Green wire that turns on the headlight relay about half a second after starting. I know many people are asking "why" but like you, I'm just curious. And it wouldn't hurt to have some baseline data if the bike ever plays up.

Hi I have a question for the guru's out there. I have a 2010 TXT Pro 250. Lest year I noticed that there was fuel in the gearbox oil when I changed it. That precipitated a complete engine rebuild. Glad I did it because it was pretty worn. I had only had the bike a few months and bought it to get into trials (a decision I dont regret for one minute ) I bought literally every seal and bearing, clutch, top end, crank was rebuilt as well. When it came to fitting the main bearings I took them out of the box (The new style XiU-rdiOnes) they were so tight that it was impossible to rotate them. IN other words, you could not rotate the inner of the bearing at all. Even with significant force. I was told that they are quite tight, but this seemed insane. Anyway, went ahead with fitting, cases heated, bearings frozen. Tough to get them in, but they were seated. Bolted the cases up and the crank was literally solid. I have rebuilt many many engines over the years and I have never seen a set of bearings this tight. The crank could only be rotated by popping a high torque cordless drill onto it. After a few minutes of this, I could now rotate the crank (just) by hand. This really didnt seem right to me. Anyway, I was assured by some that this is normal for these motors. It started up fine and ran well. However, there was a constant loud whirring noise which was not there before. It did get slightly less, but has not gone away. After a few rides I noticed that it is starting to use gearbox oil, but it doesnt smoke. So I popped off the flywheel cover and its full of oil. So the left side seal/bearing is failing obviously. So it all has to come apart again and get some more fresh mains and seals. My main question here is about those bearings. Are they really meant to be that tight? I cannot believe that they should be that tight. Surely this will generate massive heat and possibly destroy the seal and the o-rings in the bearing? I have never come across a main bearing that cannot be rotated by hand (unless it is seized) brand new out of the box. Makes me think that I was supplied a bad set of mains? Thoughts anyone? Nigel

Hi guys doing some research before attempting to change the crank seal on my 2011 raga 280.. any how to videos or advice appreciated..! thanks for any info..!

Receipt 40105424.PDF

Hello Does anyone knows where to buy the plates that are used in a pete kirby bsa clutch? I have 2 early clutches and i want to fit the newer type plates but i cant find them. I am not able to contact Pete for info. Regards Bob

Values are quite sensible where I live

My method of a window on both sides is easy to repack again by removing the rivets but this guy details his welding method.

Hi Chris After reading your comment and thinking about what could trigger this extra ignition event, I largely agree with your second explanation for a misfire. Since this is a compression test, I held the throttle wide open for maximum air intake, and perhaps this could create an extra ignition event? That's my best guess. For my compression test, I used the WPS500X pressure transducer from Picoscope with 3 measurement ranges, which is a great diagnostic tool for many different things. If you are interested in learning more about batteryless systems, I can recommend this document from SAE.ORG entitled "Implementing Software and Hardware Solutions for Batteryless Systems" JSAE 20139094, which describes many of the issues associated with starting a single cylinder 4-stroke engine. It is a very detailed document that provides many new perspectives on the internal processing of the ECU. I have a feeling that the document is based on data on batteryless systems from Honda - as there are references to a document entitled "SAE TECHNICAL PAPER: JSAE 20066507", which deals with the development of electrical systems for four-stroke motorcycles for trials motorcycles. There are also many other references in the document, so all in all a very interesting piece of technical literature - which can certainly be used for a broader insight into troubleshooting a motorcycle equipped with a batteryless system. Regards Honda Freak

Hi all where can I get the difrent sized shims for the clutch adjustment as my clutch slips badly when the clutch gets hot. Thought I was wheel spinning antill my m8 said its not spinning the wheel.

Hi all I've had my 1981 199b for about 3 years now it was a bit neglected when I bought it since then I've replaced a lot of parts,paint work ect,new tyres I'd like to move it on as the wife doesn't want me to do any silly off road stuff just wondering what values are at this time,road registered with lighting kit ect

About 4 rides I think. i haven't ridden them in wet conditions yet so that is still a question mark.

Hi, old thread I know but does anyone have the file to 3d print this box ? TIA

I take it you don't trust their claims. Not really surprising I suppose in a world of lies/liars. Its made in the usa by an american company so its got be your first choice really. Regards Alan

Bonsoir, debutant le trial j ai acquis une beta rev 3 année 2006 malheureusement je recherche des documents pour le demontage de mon amortisseur et changement de joints (Paioli ) "et oui 56 ans mon tour viendra 😀" merci de votre aide

Bonsoir, debutant le trial j ai acquis une beta rev 3 année 2006 malheureusement je recherche des documents pour le demontage de mon amortisseur et changement de joints (Paioli ) "et oui 56 ans mon tour viendra 😀" merci de votre aide

Wanted to revive an old thread. The biggest benefit I see to Evans is the fact that it's waterless and should help resist corrosion for those of us with magnesium engine cases. However, once you factor in the Prep Fluid you're spending about $70 for the Evans Package. I also don't love the super high boiling point. I'm also considering Maxima Coolanol. They claim to use deionized water and that it's safe for magnesium cases. It's also less than $20! What are the thoughts from the group?

If I was using a wasted spark ignition (ignition pick-up located on the crankshaft and not on the valve drive which rotates at half crank speed) and needed to apply a fuel injection cycle only on the intake stroke 🤔 I think I would make the fuel circuit dependent on high vacuum pressure being present at the throttle body. Poor starting was always the result of improper valve clearance on all five of the 4RT's I owned.

Cookiemonster, all sorted with Hastings now but thanks for the reply

I’m with TDA used to be called BE MOTO have you tried them?

Hi honda_freak and greetings from downunder. Thank you for taking an interest, and for your excellent measurements. Your findings are certainly contrary to what I found. Two possibilities come to mind... 1. Maybe the early models did indeed use wasted spark ignition. But then what about the fuel injection? or 2. Maybe all of them start with wasted spark but then change to only sparking on compression after the engine is running (and it somehow figures what stroke it's on). That sounds pretty bizarre too but you've inspired me to find out. Furthermore, does it inject fuel each revolution as well. I still have all my test leads and the setup is stored in my scope. What I propose is to run a much expanded timebase (say covering 20 to 30 seconds) and then kick starting the engine and triggering the scope on the very first spark. My scope should have enough memory depth to be able to examine the first few cycles looking for a trace like yours and then search for a time were it changes to non-wasted spark. It will be an interesting exercise but I probably won't get around to it for a month or two because gets to 40°C in my shed right now. I'll definitely do more testing and report back. As a side issue, I've occasionally had the situation where the bike won't start from a hot start no matter how many times I kick it. Following advice from this forum, I open the throttle full and give one kick (to supposedly reset the ECU) and sure enough the bike starts on the very next kick. I never really believed the reset ECU story but now I'm wondering... Could the main capacitor be keeping the ECU running long enough to maintain a non-wasted spark condition but have ended up on the wrong stroke because of poor kicking or a spit back. A reset might get it back into wasted spark condition so it can start again. It would be interesting to get to the bottom of that. If testing were to show the bike runs wasted spark initially from cold before changing over, it would be interesting to turn off the bike and immediately restart it and run the same test over to see what those first few cycles look like. I don't know - it could be a load of rubbish but we'll see. Thank you again for your input. Chris. ps. I'm keen to know about your cylinder pressure measurement/transducer.

Hi aussiechris Interesting topic regarding wasted spark ignition on Honda Montesa 4RT. A few years ago I recorded some oscilloscope captures of the secondary ignition system versus compression pressure on a Honda Montesa 4RT model year 2007. It should be said that these captures were taken during kick start of the engine, which is in contrast to your measurements. But looking at this oscilloscope capture where I measure the secondary voltage on the spark plug wire versus compression pressure over two revolutions of the engine - it is clear to see the extra ignition event characterizing a wasted spark system. This was my small contribution to the discussion about wasted spark systems.

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