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Hello friends, anyone have the Clymer M318-4 / original manual in a PDF by chance they might be able to share? Thanks so much in advance...new toy! Johnny

Whisky throttle is when you experience a brief disconnect between your brain and your physical dexterity. I can tell you're not addicted to the sport yet, but once you do become comfortable with the controls and start moving with your machine instead of just using it to haul you around like a wagon, then you will become addicted to riding trials bikes. What they didn't tell you at the dealership is; you didn't just buy some vehicle to transport you over terrain so rough that it could kill a horse, you bought an exercise machine that requires riding every chance you get until you get really good with it. Master the controls first and learn to read the terrain, learn to move your body in harmony with the motorcycle while practicing the technique' of doing wheelies, splats, zaps, hops and all those other neat tricks. The motorcycle does not make it easy, it only makes it possible and about 4 days or more per week is usually required to notice a marked improvement in your riding skills and physical endurance, much less than 2 days per week riding will have you regressing in skills and physical conditioning just as it would happen with any other strenuous exercise regime.

Okay everdently it's called whisky throttle

Thanks will give it a try , but certainly a lot to contend with , clutch control ,rear brake control ,throttle control , who said trials bikes were easy ,

Cheers guys, I’ll ask about to see if anyone’s got a CDI unit I can borrow , expensive things to take a punt on. Will check needle again too.

So true! To the OP, it's often difficult to tell the difference between an electrical misfire and a fueling misfire. I'd richen the jet needle clip to see if you can move the misfire to a differed throttle position.

Sweet bike! From here the fuel tank and possibly even the frame looks like it came straight off an AJS Stormer.

Trouble-shooting and always having replacement parts on hand is the biggest reason to buy trials bikes in pairs, nothing beats having a second bike of the same model and swapping entire assemblies until you locate the problem, especially when a carburetor, throttle body or CDI module is in question. ... any friends that own the same model bike? That can work too.

Hi guys m I’m hoping to get some opinions here for a problem I have with the bike. txt 280 2021, not done a lot of hours. I’ve got a real splutter/misfire coming off closed throttle to 1/4 throttle . I’ve stripped and rebuilt the carb, new o ring seals everything , but the problem is still there . so it’s pointing at the electrical side now I’m guessing . My cdi pins are pretty furred up, so I’ve cleaned them , but still no joy. can anyone else recommend where I look ? Is there a way to test if the cdi unit itself is the problem? I’m checking all my earths and connections now . any advice appreciated .

Does any member have some historic details of the 37A trials bike, produced by AJS in the late 1960's ? From what I can find out is that 100 bikes were made ( Cotton actually made the frames and Norton Villiers the engine). I have number 99 in South Africa, but have no history of the bike. AJS themselves do not have any records of these bikes.

I concur with the above post, you likely need to ride the foot pegs far more and the handlebars far less. Infinitely better to assist if we could see what you are doing wrong but just a guess: The number one new to trials rider issue is not bending your knees anywhere near enough because doing so moves your body weight off the bars and lowers your weight onto the pegs where it is needed. I find it beneficial to keep my right foot forward on the peg where I can retain control over the rear brake at all times and I shift my left foot further back riding on the ball of my foot, the staggered stance offers better front to rear balance control. Setup of the lever and bar position is critical to keeping only your index fingers on the control levers at all times and that will help you to control everything that needs to happen when you are popping a wheelie or riding a cat walk. (cat walk is the term I use to describe a sustained wheelie or when you ride only the rear wheel like a unicycle.) A taller gear selection and using front to rear balance point control instead of the engine power will address the over-rev issue.

Sounds like you're hanging off the bars, this will be a problem for more than just wheelies. practice keeping a steady throttle while moving your upper body around, on the flat, then uphill and downhill then over really rough ground. Also for a practical/useful front wheel lift try to get a lot of the initial lift from the suspension using as little throttle as possible to catch/assist it, it's useful practice for slippery conditions where there's not enough traction using just the throttle or clutch up technique.

Hey, stumbled upon your post from a while back. Sorry to hear about your MOT trouble with the horn. Dealing with those regulations can be frustrating! I

Hello , new to trials riding. Have beta 200 , when doing wheelie as I lift front wheel I keep twisting the throttle, how to solve this

Thanks very much for the response. I'm in at 75kg / 165 lbs and both front and rear suspension have been overhauled in the past 50 hours. Just changed fluids in the front forks and am using a quality 5W dedicated fork oil. I will take your advice and start off about mid-point and adjust from there. So I take it that springy/lively is what we're looking for...will do. Thanks again

I asked a seller on ebay about the decal set and the below is the question i asked and the ebay sellers reply: My question: Hello. I just wonder if this decal set for Gas Gas TXT Pro is made of thin vinyl that applied on the bike using soapy water or if is more thick decals with glue on the backside? I have 2 TXT Pro bikes i am thinking of replacing the decals on. Hope for a quick reply Regards The ebay sellers answer: Hi they are printed on high tack self adhesive vinyl & laminated with thick MOTO X quality gloss laminate making them a thick decal. Regards

The film has to be 'thin' in order to fit smoothly to the curves of the panels. Hair dryer helps in keeping it pliable. Using soapy water is normal for applying self adhesive graphics. It is 'thin' sticker with adhesive on the back.

So the decal sets are made of film that you use soapy water when applying it on the bike. This film is so thin. I thought it was kin of "thick" stickers with glue on the backside. I once had a company close to where i live making a proper decals set for an old TXT 321 for me and i do not think i paid more for that job than what the decal set cost on ebay. Perhaps if i buy a decal set and have this compane just use them as templates and have the company make a proper set of decals with glue on the backside is the way to go?

I think the new EM has a Tech rear shock. It is an Italian company and has a range of products but their website is not that great and what the products might fit is not listed. Mostly the front forks in trials but some of the other stuff looks pretty good: https://www.rideformula.com/cat/motorcycle/

I'm installing custom Ohlins tonight

Yes you're right, about 1ml of soap in 1ltr of water.

When we had a leak, the black plastic appeard to have been the cause. Time well spent!

Today, Piston, rings, cylinder, clutch, selector, clutch arm, carburetor gaskets, spark plug, intake pipe, valve box, cylinder head, air box rubber, rear frame: new original! Used air box in good condition. I ordered clutch and throttle cables. It feels good to be moving forward, but I still have work to do. It took me quite a while to gather the parts for this machine. When I compare it to the TYZ, there is a world between the two. The Yamaha was much more modern in design and manufacturing. This 311 was really the “before” Honda engine.

Absolutely time to revisit the carburetor and if this is a carburetor where you can put the slide in rotated 180 degrees from where it should be, that is very likely the problem. Should take all of 5 minutes to check that.

Bike is fresh out of storage, just been out and it did actually start. Started with the choke but was absolutely screaming. Tried to adjust the idle whilst pulling the kill switch off and quickly putting it back on, so the bike wasn’t left screaming. Bike then died without the choke and wouldn’t start again. Something to have a play with again… run out of time tonight.