Twinshock

This might appear as a silly question - but in 40 years I have never used bar ends on any of my trial, trail or road bikes. I understand that open ends can be a safety issue and as I would like to start competing I believe blocking the ends is a requirement. So I purchased some Hebo bar ends with the intention of fitting them to my TLR200 and Cota 247. However, I really don't have a clue what to do - do they go on the bars then place the grips on top of them or do they go on the outside of the grips ie: cut a hole in the grips.... One thing I do know is the Hebo units are too small for my bars although I can probably pad them with some old tube rubber.

Anyone bought? Is it worth buying?

Saw mention of a new 'Cotswolds' twin shock bike built with a Jailing motor on the Pinky twin shock conversion discussion. Does anyone have any info on these bikes - who makes them? costs? any photos etc? Many thanks!

just curious, what is the most difficult line for twinshock....... maybe I'm getting old, but many moons ago I seem to recall expert or master class was quite a challenge to ride, I love riding vintage class but sometimes I wish for nastier sections. No I don't have the money for a modern bike, however the modern sections are a little much to splater on old school bikes(weight) anyone else feel this way? I have done most of the mods I can (i.e. drilled spokes for lightness).....unless someone wants to donate a "peril kt250 frame. not too sincerly yours dgraf

Anyone tried them? How do they work? Are they better left to the MX crowd?

I have just found some old magazines in my shed and found an report about Italjet and Moto Gori trials bikes and an interview with John Lampkin when he rode a Fantic 240. I have scanned them if you are interested you can look at them at this link. Open in the large size to be able to read them. http://www.flickr.com/photos/59110928@N06/ Alan.

Managed to find this beauty, must be a U.S. import and it is literally spotless, including the rims and fork/engine alloy surfaces. Great fun to ride and the long legged 5th gives you a decent pace between sections or events. Gave it a decent service and all is good, tight and clean, including the 2 stroke oil pump. Have put ATF in gearbox and using fully synthetic 2-stroke oil. Found some water in the o/s front fork leg - must have been in a few deep ones!!! Flushed thoroughly and re-filled with 10 wt fork oil. Tried to get a spare ignition key - $25 + postage from the U.S. Local pet shop selling KAW4 key blanks for £3.20, with £2 charge for cutting. Thinking…

A little background: Me- 6ft. weight 175lb with gear. Bike- 1970 Montesa Cota 247 with unknown brand of rear shocks. The shocks can be adjust, but I can't turn the adjuster. See photos. Skill level- beginner. where- riding in vintage trials competitions in woods with a lot of uphills and downhills. Goal- keep getting better and score more points. Budget- unfortunately tight. I don't want to spend more than 200GBP include shipping to USA. At first I was intrigue by the OZO "Expert" shocks. The price is 90GBP before shipping and they seems good upgrade for trial competitions. Then I start reading and found out a world full of…

Hi. I have a 76 TL125 that came with new 360mm Betor gas shocks. I think the springs may be the 50lbs ones and am wondering if I can source the lighter ones somewhere. With the pre load on the lightest setting and all the Gas released they still feel stiff. I'm about 80kg in gear. Is there any way to tell which springs they are and does someone in the UK sell just the springs? Cheers

Just a reminder that the "Classic Off Road Show" is 10am this Saturday (12th March) at the Three Counties Showground at Malvern. If its anything like the show at Coventry last year there should be plenty of interesting twinshocks & pre 65's on display. Anyone else going? Martin

I've got an Armstrong CMT310 with the HIRO engine. I bought a photocopied manual from Sammy Miller which is little more than useless, I was expecting a proper workshop manual with technical info. The bike starts from cold after a few kicks and will tick over etc and starts first kick when warm, but seems to have very little compression for a 310cc single- I can turn the engine over by spinning the flywheel with my hand- surely that can't be right? I understand the spares situation for these engines is fairly hopeless. Has anyone else overcome this situation? Is there a piston that will fit from another engine? Does the cylinder have a steel liner insert or is it a pla…

doe's anyone remember these trials bikes, never seen or heard of them?

Hi, Has anyone any advice on what settings to use on the betor rear shocks on my Fantic 200, I have a set of 40lb and 50lb springs and have tried moving the preload ring which not only makes the suspension firmer but also makes the steering quicker when the ring is raised. I weigh about 14 stones , what settings are other twinshock riders using?

I keep seeing references to WES exhausts. Can anyone provide some details please. Where are they made, who sells them, what are they made of and whats the quality like. Oh, and do they make one for the M199A DabDab Australia

Hi All. I have got hold of a GasGas rim and want to have it laced onto my 200 hub. Anyone know of a wheel builder in the Southwest UK? Also anyone done this and have an idea of the type of spokes i require? Ta. Steve

Any help gratefully received. I have recently taken apart my forks on My KT250 to replace the seals and found no springs inside. sourced some new springs, but didnt realise they were so small and they are in two parts. Looked at an exploded diagram of the forks and it seems there are a lot of gubbins inside that I havent got either, spacers and the likes. Can anyone help with this because I am not sure how they line up inside or what else is needed. I have a workshop manual, but it doesnt help much really

Sorry if this has been done before,just wondering if anyone has direct experience of fitting one of the kits to a Ty250 - the type with inbuilt advance.Reason I ask is that whilst I really like the low down grunt of my Ty,it is a bit flat higher up the rev range.It is in good nick a generally runs very well,except I wonder if the extra ignition advance would give a bit more top end zap.Or would the 270cc big bore be better ?

What's the deal on '70's Montesas? Some have big, ugly seats... I hear some are long and turn like a bus. Which are the good ones? Call me shallow, but I grew up lusting after red ones...the white ones just don't do it for me.

Had the hub welded twice. The first weld lasted good but the 2nd weld is disintergrating into thin air . It was painted immediately after welding. The weld took well and its only thin so preheating perhaps isnt really needed ?Ive read that preheating the mag to 200 degrees in only needed on thick material. Ive never seen anything like this before and the welder who didnt seem ti understand it either .The weld is magnesium as ive done the vinegar test. My guess is that perhaps the wrong mix of mag / alloy rod was used OR it been contaminated. I find the contamination theory strange as the hub was taken back to the brake liner , so all was there was the steel. I dont wa…

1974 Montesa Cota 247 21M12797. Last season, I had my first real problem since purchasing this bike in 1978. The idle started to