trialsrfun

Could the frame be a Macdonald

The Villiers 31a was I think often fitted into small cars and has two large springs in the clutch centre, these work well in a trials bike if set up as section swept suggests. When fitted to cars the clutch might have had Capasco plates which are entirely made from friction material even the tabs but you can use the steel plates from it with the modern friction plates sold by VS.

As far as I am aware the gearbox mainshaft has to be shortened to fit a different clutch so no returning to the original. VS also have friction plates for the Villiers clutch which use more modern materials well as lighter springs, I have these fitted to my bike along with the 17t engine sprocket and chain tensioner, the clutch works very well.

What is the correct or best antifreeze for use in a Beta please also what are the change intervals.

If only we could buy them now, how I wish I had kept both the Velocette and Triumph Twin that came went got sold or swapped for what seemed the next better thing. That little Bantam would be worth quite a lot next weekend at Stafford.

The OSSA bike has I believe been discontinued so probably best to buy a brand which is current. Welcome to Trials Central, good luck with whatever you purchase hope you enjoy your trials.

The WD B40 frame which was all welded was based on the Victor scrambler this frame was used on the later BSA works trials bikes. Jim Susans of Bikecraft modified many WD frames in the way that yours has been done. http://www.bsaotter.com/jim_susans_bikecraft.html

The earlier road bike B40 like the C15 had a detachable rear subframe.

I think you may have a modified WD BSA B40 frame. The two tubes from the rear of the tank to swing arm pivot have been reshaped attaching much lower so as not to rub the ridrrs legs also I think the head angle has been altered, look at the down tube above the engine mount. You have a good looking bike which ought to work rather well.

LF Harris purchased the right to manufacture the Triumph twins.

Any reciprocating pump must surely be fitted with one way flow control valves otherwise the only pumping will be 'to me to you'

Brucey why not speak to Morgo http://www.morgo.co.uk for information about the Cub oil pumps, they make them so should be able to help. I tend to think all piston pumps would need one way shut off valves whereas a gear pump would not as the flow would be continual rather than intermittent as on a piston type.

Would be very interested to learn of your findings Brucey.

Does the Triumph Tiger Cub have different valve springs for the standard cam and R cam, if so how do you identify which springs are for which cam. Same for the cam followers or are they the same for both types.

Brucey my Cub also has the engine oil in frame which means the oil return pipe exits near the top yoke, therefore higher than the rocker feed. Might this cause the oil especially when hot and thinner to take the path of least resistance via the smaller diameter pipe to the rocker boxes. I do not know if this is the case but if a side oil tank were used is the return then at a similar height to the top of the engine causing less pressure to be needed to pump back?

Bring the lot to http://www.dynasurf.co.uk at Sandbach Cheshire, with the weak £ and strong Aus $ plus probably no vat @ 20% as you are not in the eu why not get them refinished properly.

Thanks all for your suggestions and info.

Have recently replaced the Amal pancake air filter on my Cub with a new foam cylindrical type which I sprayed with Castrol filter spray. Now having ridden the bike I think it is running rich and very badly at lower rpm. I removed the filter which seemed to improve things but need more riding time before I will know properly. Do all foam filters need spraying or have I made a problem by doing so, anyone else had running issues after spraying a foam filter?

Give these people a try Jon http://www.cgchell.co.uk/

Gerry makes a very nice Bultaco top yoke which places the bars over the steerer stem. I am quite tall and have one fitted to my bike, for me it greatly improves both riding position and handling of the bike.

It would be helpful if you can post photos of the bikes/parts to see what is there. If you message me the frame numbers I should be able to find the model and year of each one.

http://www.yamahaty.com/english/tyusineen/majestyen.html Lots of Yamaha TY stuff on the above site.

Think carefully before you agree to anything, what are your expectations of the finished bikes, do you want them to original spec or something to ride, are the parts you have correct for each model? Beware of someone throwing together the pieces you have just to get one to sell at an autojumble. The thing is no matter how many parts you have even if those parts are in good condition to get each bike built to a good standard you will have to buy certain things as the build progresses. Hopefully you will ride when they are finished so why not build one bike to start with, decide which model group all the bits to that bike then take the engine to Villiers Services to be assembled, Paul Jackson on York's Classic website for wheels if the rims need attention then seek help locally as well as here on TC to help you get it running. Forget pristine go for a reliable build then with the experience restore a second. Greeves bikes are well worth restoring but it would still be possible to spend their value on restoration.

My OSSA TR77 Verde