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guy53

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Everything posted by guy53

  1. Any parts from A TY A model I could use T completely rebuild a D model ? Guy
  2. guy53 replied to guy53's topic in Yamaha
    Jon, winter is coming ! Guy
  3. guy53 posted a topic in Yamaha
    I wonder if anybody as ever put a 250 TS TY and a Mono TY motor on a scale ? I am in the process off rebuilding a TS and find the motor heavy. Guy
  4. Space the shock with washer.
  5. guy53 replied to allymo73's topic in Beta
    I would not be ashamed to ride one ! Guy
  6. guy53 replied to guy53's topic in OSSA
    canada280i I found the one on Kijiji this weeckend, it's a bit more expensive then the one ( I hope it's not the same ) I was offered. I don't fell '' the love ''. Guy
  7. guy53 posted a topic in OSSA
    What are the pros ans cons off buying a 2013 Ossa 290i Guy
  8. Yes the water treatment does help a lot. Guy
  9. How cold should be the water? Guy
  10. Unfortunately Take_a_Five you might have to buy a new piston as a 40 year's old oil injection pump is very unreliable thing. Guy
  11. It does not look like you use it as a trial bike, so rear shock should be ok if they don't bounce like rubber ball. Front fork need service.
  12. guy53 replied to ric h's topic in Canada Trials
    Great event with great people. Guy
  13. Footrest are standard, but a seat like that was not. It was avalable as an option part that you had to buy separately. The side stand is still there, nice bike Guy
  14. It seem's that it is fitted with the ´´ long seat ´´ , are the footrest standard or also changed for the trail version ? Guy
  15. Don't forget to check the keyway, small things are important, trust me. Guy
  16. There is always a bright side to a story: I was smart enough to buy all the parts needed for the job since the last rebuild, connecting rod, piston kit, seals etc., so hopefully I'll have it running like new for our big annual meeting with Mick. Guy
  17. Disaster: Just for fun I took the piston from the connecting rod, top bearing is done and yep the rod is corroded too, so crank job. I always use Shell Ultra that is suppose to be ethanol free. The transmission side is just as new, but the crankshaft side is very dirty with what look like rust mix with oil. There as been big change in temperature in the last few month especially in the period I was out of town, but I would have never believe that it could such damage. When I change the oil in the transmission I only ran it for a few minutes, probably long enough to '' spread the disease ''. Guy
  18. Scot I never heard about replacing the coil the way you did. Please give us feed back. I normally take the lighting coil out, if I can use them as replacement, I'll be more careful in storing them. Guy
  19. Now that my blood pressure is back to normal, I'm going to have a good look this evening, from what I can see with the cylinder off, only the part below the exhaust port is pitted. Guy
  20. Nope, always clean it dry ( with a rag. Guy
  21. Yesterday I took my B model out to make the final prep for today's friendly competition. I could not crank it, jerk it front and back it did not seem to be stuck, so I tought that the crank was the problem. After all it did start great about 3 weeks ago when I changed the transmission oil. After removing the side cover, everything looked ok, and I could not find the cause of my problem, took the clutch out, all the separate gear where free appart from the one on the end of the crankshaft. Than with the sparkplug out I tried to turn the motor: horror it WAS stuck. So head and cylinder off ( it was not stuck too hard ) I found water in the base, enough that the bottom of the cylinder is pitted. There was no water in the oil of the transmission ( I was not surprise by that ). It had good compression, no leak between the base and cylinder and the gas that I use is always fresh and clean. So where does that water came from, the only way it could get in the base is by the exhaust witch is in my opinion improbable. The exhaust would have to be full of water. Any idea ? Guy
  22. guy53 replied to heronboy's topic in Yamaha
    Read the Beta clutch fix by dan William ( in the Beta section ) it does apply and it's worth the effort. Guy
  23. The best are the one that are well tuned. Guy
  24. I made an extension for my 250 ( not off the shelf ) a few years back, and I did not felt such a difference, even if I oiled the cable until I followed JonV8 advise. I replace the cable with a new Venhill and oiled it with WD40 every ride. At our last TS meeting a few friend tried the clutch and the general comment was it's almost as light as a modern bike clutch. Guy
  25. There is a kind of vacuum that suck the brake fluid from the '' thank '' through the bleeder, maybe that could help. Guy

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