rev3

Have you tried the Beta 200 ?, really soft and forgiving and unlike the 125 doesn't need loads of revs. Just a thought.

Welcome to the world of riding trials... Been riding 30 years, never solved that problem, I've always said... take away the markers and observers and dam it I'm good. Might take up knitting instead.

Yes 550 is what you need - I currently use ATF and clutch seems a lot better.

Try a quick action throttle. I thought the same about my 200 Rev3, The other week i caught myself saying "I better stick it in 3rd to calm it down abit". never thought for one minute I would have said that about a 200, it's an 06 I bought from new and I have only just changed the throttle. Just wish I had done it sooner.

I had this with my 06. release the adjuster screw as far OUT as you can at the lever this should ensure the very small hole as in the above post in clear. Take off the reservoir cap. Remove completely the bleed nipple and replace again, the nipple should only be out for 2 or secs. Top up brake fluid. Crack open bleed nipple and let gravity bleed the system. Keep topping up the fluid until you see nice clear liquid coming out of the bleed nipple. Tighten bleed nipple and VERY gently apply pressure on the brake lever. You may need to VERY gently pump the brake lever until you get a firm brake. I know a lot of people reading this will go on about pressure bleed, reverse bleed etc etc but this has worked for me for over many many years .

16.1 - I thought mine smoked a bit.

fully syn needs plenty of revs to burn correctly, go back to semi syn, I have always found this to perform better in both Gas Gas and my Beta. I would be interested to know though who uses what.

I totally agree with the above comments, i'm 16 stone and my 200 is more than powerful enough, ive had big bikes in the past and seem to get real knackered too quick.

good bike, a bit powerful though. the only thing to check is that the gearbox oil is nice and clear as they were prone to the side casing corroding and all the coolant enters the gearbox. Ask them if it has had the coolant mod done, if they say yes, ask what parts were replaced?, it should have had a left hand side casing.

Sounds like you need to strip and rebuild carb again, something must have been put back slightly wrong. Assuming the revs dropped ok before stripping the carb.

Best way would be to fit new rim tape, immerse wheel and tyre in tyre bath and check for leaks. Taking off the old sikoflex will cause problems, if any spokes leak, seal from the outside, I did on my GG worked fine for the last 3 years that i owned it.

If it wasn't leaking then leave well alone, done it on a Gas Gas and had no end of trouble getting it to seal, even after fitting a new rim tape.

Pull the baffle out and scrape off the old packing then clean it with a wire brush. I re packed mine using sheets of material designed for the job, to be honest it is easier to buy it pre formed and just slide it back in. If you do go for the materials to do it yourself just make sure you don't pack it too tight as it will sound worse.

I would not ride it, something will come adrift if the circlip is broken or missing and the chances are it will fail when you are flat in 4th. Don't risk it.

I use semi synthetic oil and have used every different type going on all my bikes and cannot tell the difference, except this one smells of strawberry. I use 15ml per litre, never had a problem and runs crisp anytime of the year, I would say, if it has a Champion plug, bin and put in an NGK. Air filter gets dirty and i clean it after every trial.

I have had the same problem. Back off any adjustment until there is plenty of slack on the push rod, the chance are the piston is not coming fully past the hole from the reservoir. Try bleeding it again. Worked a treat on mine.

I was reading on here the other day about trials boots and which ones are the best. It got me thinking that I should go out and have a look at mine and give them the once over. Got in the garage, scrapped all the mud off, give em a pressure wash, actually used some dubbin I found under the sink and low and behold, they have come up looking like new. Not bad since I bought them in July 1998 and only ever bang the mud off them.

I use ATF from Halfords in my 2006, never had a problem.

To stop there being a draw the higher riders number won. That was 20 years ago though.

They made a 270 not sure how you tell from the outside, I can tell you they are a bit fiery.

I know on my GG the plug was getting oiled up which stopped it from starting when the main seals failed.

Knocking under load can be main bearings, also when main seals go this can sometimes cause the reving you are experiencing. I would take barrel off and see whats going on inside.

Reminds me of when I started riding. Line it up with the slot and give it a BIG fist full.

Forget 250, the 270 was / is a cracking bike, I had one for 8 years. Think I changed the oil in 99, not sure though might have dreamt that. Rock solid reliable bike.

Interesting about counting all the dabs I saw a rider given a 34, really funny when you see the riders expression, probably same place as Jordi (kingscote) many many years ago.