dadof2

Put some more WD40 on O ring, refill coolant or water and put filler cap back on. Run bike, and they usually pop out as it warms up and pressure increases.

Don’t blame James for this large spout The power consumed by electric pumps and mechanical pumps when running is broadly the same and it is so low to be negligible on a trials bike. On a car because the radiator spans the height of the water jacket and the hoses are large bore the coolant can circulate by themosiphon meaning much of the time the pump need not run and no energy is drawn from the engine. This coupled with faster warm up from cold start will give significant fuel savings and this has been clearly demonstrated. Also electric pumps can be very reliable, fuel pumps on cars and central heating pumps generally run for many years problem free. However despite these advantages electric water pumps are not widely used. Cost of the pump and control circuitry / sensors are a factor but there are technical drawbacks as well. Although most coolant systems nominally operate at about 1 bar, the part of the system between the pump outlet and engine outlet often operate at much higher pressure, possibly 2 to 3 bar. The purpose of this increased pressure is to raise the boiling point of the coolant and prevent micro bubbles forming on hot parts of the engines. When they form micro bubbles (and larger) act as an insulator and lead to localised overheating. An electric pump has to be substantial wattage to achieve 2 to 3 bar whereas a mechanical pump has adequate engine power available. When throttle opens to accelerate and revs increase, in an engine with a mechanical pump heat generation and coolant flow increase simultaneously, pressure builds to prevent bubbles / hot spots before they form. In this situation the drawback with an electric pump is that it does not respond to increased demand until its sensors detect that the temperature has risen. It then pumps rapidly, dumping cool water on metal quite probably already many times boiling point. This thermal cycling is bad for the coolant and bad for the metal. Systems involving multiple temperature sensors, sensors linked to throttle position and tachometer and an ECU to make it all work can reduce these problems but add significantly to complexity, cost and more components means more possibility of failure. The above comes from research on larger multi cylinder car engines, where fuel saving / emissions reductions are the aim. But the principles apply to single cylinder engines as well, especially as ECU, enlarged alternator, pump and control circuitry are a much higher percentage of manufacturing cost on a trials bike than on a luxury car. My dislike of having and electric pump on a trials bike is because there are enough problems already with, electric fans, thermostat switch, rectifiers and regulators already without adding more items to go wrong. All the problems with mechanical pumps on trial bikes are the result of cost cutting, weight cutting or poor design. In my view an ideal coolant circulation system on a trials bike would consist of, a mechanical pump, a coolant driven fan and a translucent header tank clearly visible from the riding position. No electrics at all and two clear indicators (fan rotation and coolant level) of system condition. I have no wish to criticise the Vertigo but to me its complexity is a turn off, not a selling point. Quite some years ago now non franchised garages and government realised there was going to be a problem maintaining complex vehicle systems and as a result the onboard diagnostics legislation (now OBD II) was brought in. Unfortunately no such legislation exists for motorcycles and Montesa, Ossa and now Vertigo (presumably) all have their own systems which won’t communicate with standard diagnostic tools. Sooner or later this lack of OBD compatibility is going to have a significant negative impact on users of complex and EFI motorcycles. There is also an as yet unmentioned drawback to EFI on current trials motorcycles. They do not have exhaust (lambda) sensors. This means if there is a non EFI problem downstream of the sensors causing a weak or rich mixture, the EFI won’t have a clue what is wrong (it won’t even know something is wrong) and you engine could be wrecked. Nor can motorcycle EFI distinguish between different fuel grades and those containing different percentages of ethanol, meaning the EFI cannot adjust the fuelling and ignition parameters correctly. 30 years ago I had a car with a V6 engine and a Webber carburettor, my present car although EFI and about 25 mph faster, gives worse mpg and is no better at all for actual driving. Call me a luddite if you like, but what really is progress?

Thoroughly degrease the rim and the tyre bead then paint evostick contact adhesive all round the rim and bead after fitting the tyre, leave 5 minutes then inflate and leave overnight before using http://www.henrygallacher.co.uk/ do a special adhesive for sticking neoprene (a type of rubber) to metal, this bonds stronger than evostick, so strong it may tear fragments out of your tyre when you need to remove it so only glue one bead or you cant fix a puncture easily.

Blow them out with compressed air but first wrap the calliper and air nozzle in a towel or similar or the piston could fly anywhere and you could get a brake fluid shower. If air will not shift them you need to make up a fitting with a grease nipple and pump them out with a grease gun.

Never use WD40 to lubricate brake seals. It is OK to loosen things up for dismantling but it must be quickly and thoroughly removed with detergent or brake cleaner. The probable cause of your problem is corrosion on the piston, corrosion in the bore or seal grooves and old brake fluid. The hard to see side of seal groove usually most corroded Thorough strip and clean is remedy. Dental inspection mirror is useful to check seal, grooves. Look back over previous posts for more info.

No, not that, did a beginning of time clean out. Got better later then OK this evening. Maybe something to do with BT lines / servers as we had a power cut not long before I used PC.

Your filler cap should have a mechanism on the underside to prevent this, your friends may be faulty or missing. If you post photo's of the filler cap underside someone with a 2014 may be able to advise, its yellow plastic on a 2012.

The point about the GG 50 boy is how wrong GG can get it. I know full well the engine bits are made here, there and everywhere, that is the case with nearly all vehicles. The main problem with the 50 boy was the Selettra ignition made so I am told in Israel. If GG is going to outsource probably on price without good design and quality assurance then they have to carry the can, not pass the buck. Regarding DLs choice of bike, whatever his reasons, the reliability of a little used bike in the hands of a top rider is not a reliable indicator of how that bike will perform over a longer period in the hands of club level riders. Since you suggested I have a look at other trials to see the proportions of bikes I had a quick glance at the Scott Programme that was still laying on my desk. I could not be bothered to go through all 200 but the make up is not that different if at all to the Bassenthwaite results I posted. What is noticeable is how infrequently GG have won this time and reliability trial.

Steve, this is what you wrote on #99. " Perhaps even improving engine performance as there will be no resistance when reving." Had what you wrote been true, the Vertigo would have been really remarkable, its water pump being no less that a perpetual motion machine. Now that you have explained what you meant I agree with what you were trying to say. I have actually read quite a lot of in depth research on electric water pumps for internal combustion engines and they do have potential advantages for warm up and fuel economy but they also have significant drawbacks of which reliability is just one and that is why they have not been widely used on cars. Here are just some of the drawbacks of electric pumps. Unless they are massively oversized for normal running they not capable of maintaining sufficient pressure at high engine speeds to prevent localised hot spots and boiling. ​The alternator has to be sized to accommodate the pumps current draw, This in turn leads to the alternator having more static and rotating mass to be paid for, accelerated and decelerated. Atomant #105. You are making a judgement on me based on far too little information. I actually have a very good track record on design and innovation. The use of technology has to be appropriate, in the case of an electric pump I believe the increased complexity more than negates any performance benefit.

Usually both, sort of pins the bike in place and makes it stable.

Good bikes those, never had one myself but they were not far off 1980s monshock TY250s. Most of us had Ty250s at the time but a lad who came practising with us his Beta was well up to the hardest sections

Forum running slow and unable to access some parts - anyone know anything

Does it have SAE J1703 DOT 4 or anything like that written on top of master cylinder cap?

#100 yes very funny. The electric water pump will put load (resistance) on the engine because of the torque required to generate its driving electricity. Then there will be efficiency losses during generation, rectification and in the electric motor of the pump itself. The reason Beta cases corrode is because they are magnesium alloy (to make them lighter) and possibly more suited to thin moulding. Because of its position in the galvanic series relative to aluminium rapid corrosion occurs. Honda CR MX bikes suffered the same. EFI on cars always desirable? - anyone priced a GDI recently?

I have had and seen a bit of fun with Ossa rear wheel spindles. First one kinked when bike was about 2 &1/2 months old, bearing collapsed at about 40 mph on the road, back wheel locked and I slid to an emergency stop sideways on and was damn near hit by following car. Next I bought a high tensile spindle that at worked fine for following 5 months. Then on 3rd gear hill climb out of a stream the spindle snapped just where threads start (possibly spindle over hardened and brittle). Then had to sit out the trial until a friend brought a spare spindle afterwards. Next bough a flat sprocket / extra bearing conversion. I think Bill and Mick Wilkinson eventually cut the back out of their swinging arms so the wheel could be removed even if spindle bent.

Reply to lineaway #24. Levers rotating on the bars is not the factories fault, its been happening to off road bikes for ages and is a useful method of preventing bits snapping. Unfortunately it now seems that in an attempt to lighten and miniaturise components the hose fitting is weaker and located too close to the handlebar (at least on the rise and bend fitted to Betas). A small amount of lever rotation which would not have done damage previously now necks the brake line off. Dougie - is the bike really his choice or did he not sign some sort of deal with GG to ride there bikes in enduro, trials etc on an occasional basis and coach Raga. Perhaps the best post on this topic is Guys #16. If you look through there you will see GG have a large number of gearbox problems, whereas other marques have very few. The question still stands - Why don't GG offer a better warranty? perhaps the answer is they like to make money from a large mark up on spares. See http://www.trialscentral.com/component/attachments/download/1743 This is a fairly typical entry for trials in this area and a quick count shows GG to be no more popular than Beta or Sherco. What I do know is that a few years ago were put off Beta because of Stator failures. Now because of the various GG problems riders (in this area at least) are moving away from GG with Sherco probably the main beneficiary. I do not dispute that GG are popular and they are good to ride, and for some riders the riding experience on a GG is sufficient to overlook potential reliability problems particularity if they intend to replace them frequently. But GG would sell quite a few more if they were more reliable. Going back about 8 or 10 years a major GG dealer refused to sell any more TXT50 boys because of the negative effect their lack of reliability was having on their reputation. They were so displeased they sent their remaining stock back to GG UK.

For the low cost its worth a try, nothing ventured, nothing gained as they say.

Faulty HT coil can cause this.

Registration is free (or still was last year) so long as it is for vehicle identification purposes. If you are registering it for road use there is a fee.

"A mech engineer would be able to shed more light on the subject" Shedding more light on the subject only illuminates what a complex subject this is. Unfortunately fastener torque is quite an unreliable means of achieving the correct clamping force because of a large number of variables several of which are listed in previous posts. The correct clamping force can only be consistently achieved by having thoroughly cleaned fasteners, correctly "lubricated", then torquing to a low value to take up slack, the turning the fastener the correct number of degrees to put the correct tension in the fastener. ​Motorcyclist have been killed and cars have crashed after wheels have come loose even when torqued correctly, because the fitter had applied grease or anti-seize compound

If you take the exhaust off (quick job) you will be able to measure the bore and stroke accurately enough to tell if its a 310 or a 250. Stroke is bottom of exhaust port (top of piston at BDC) to the cylinder head joint.

As per the handbook, (10w-40 or 75w gear oil) or have you got one of those in and the clutch does not feel right. Putoline light gear oil 75w works fine in 2012s.

Well, now we know the vertigo can run for more than 5 minutes and do what Dougie could have done 10 years ago on a Beta. Is the most of video (last 30 seconds excepted) fuzzy?

No problem going out in Buxton after dark, all the GG fans will be too busy fettling their bikes to be out and about. Both myself and a friend had JTXs for a number of years and they were 100% reliable. But since the pro there reputation for reliability has become seriously tarnished. Seeing what happened to friends who bought Pros meant we never did. If posts listing GG failures upset them then they need to fix the problems. In fact those problems were not the only ones the GGs had, some of those bikes also had water pump seal and brake problems. DLs choice of bike. Top line riders bikes which are only used for a short period of time may be adequately reliable but that is no proof that they will be reliable for club riders who may use them many weekends and practice in between over 2 years or more. If GG are so confident in the quality of their product why do they not match or exceed Ossas 2 year warranty? Edit. Just to show its not just GG who don't always get things right I have seen 2 Betas that have had front brake failure as a result of minor falls recently. The brake assembly rotates on the handlebar and snaps off the very thin hydraulic hose fitting by it hitting the handlebars. The fitting needs beefing up and its exit from the master cylinder repositioning.

Guessing but here goes anyway. The electronics in the CDI almost certainly work at about 5 volts DC. To save having to have a second rectifier for the CDI electronics it could be that they use the DC from the fan rectifier and reduce the voltage. This would explain why no spark if no rectifier even though the power for the ignition is generated separate to the power for fan / horn / lights.