dadof2

Perhaps that's why Bou won't ride the SSDT, get his nuts frozen in that skin tight lycra.

I would be inclined to print a copy off the government website and keep it with you / your trailer. I know of 2 cases where drivers with post 1997 licences have been stopped and warned for towing a trailer (about 8ft by 3 ft ifor williams) plated at over 750 kg with a car. The actual weights of the trailers and loads was well under 750 kg. Neither driver was prosecuted but were warned they would be if caught again. One of the drivers was made to wait at the roadside until his mother arrived to drive the car and trailer. It seems some police officers may have a different opinion to the governments own website. You say your Mondeo has a max gross weight of 2275 kg. The lightest of the bv84 trailers has a plated weight of 1400 kg. 2275 + 1400 = 3675 which is 175 kg over what your licence permits. You will therefore be illegal. The weights that count for license purposes are the plated max gross, known as the GTM (gross train mass) not the actual weight. GTM is the sum of the MAM of the towing vehicle and the MAM of the trailer. These are authorised masses not actual masses which will generally be lower. I think Ifor Williams may be prepared to de rate the trailer for you and change the plate. The law on this is peculiar because it mixes up mass and weight which are not the same. Mass is constant whereas weight varies with gravity. Ever since some "clever fu--er" in the civil service decided to use mass instead of weight I have wondered what a court would make of it if the defence brought in a professor of physics and asked the prosecution to explain how the mass of the vehicle was determined. Do Ifor Williams weigh them and calculate the plated mass, or do they just weigh them and call that the mass?

Iridium plugs fire easier. I used to run Champion N11Y or N12Y in my 325 Bultos. I think 12 is same heat range as NGK4. Champion (QN86) is the only plug I have ever had fail prematurely, failed after about 45 minutes running for no reason

A few shots of a youthful looking JR Sunt's dad if I am not mistaken. Brilliant stuff at the home of Agostini, Why can't we have some decent mud at WTC these days? What a pity Yamaha quit the sport.

I think you mean impeller not sprocket. A larger impeller kit I have seen also had a larger housing.

Clutch rattle? does it change sound when clutch is pulled in. It is possible for a big end to knock and yet be very difficult to find any play in.

It will be tight if its possible, the bikes have to be put in diagonally. 3 bikes put in in this way fit in a 10ft by 4 ft reasonably easily. Suggest you mark out a rectangle an the ground and try it. Make sure your driving license covers over 750kg, you need it for this trailer even if you don't load it over 750kg

Unless you are going to ride it hard in high temperatures any fully synthetic 10w-40, 5w-40 or even 0w-40 should be OK, especially something like Mobil 1 for motorcycles. Choose a motorcycle grade or one that is specified as suitable for wet clutches, some oils are not. As already posted castor oil not good for gears, or anything else in a trials 4 stroke.

I can remember John Reynold riding the mono. As already stated only a few were made and they were not for general sale. Someone else regularly rode one, maybe John Metcalfe? who later rode Suzuki's. Mick Andrews was also experimenting with a Yamaha monoshock, 1976 or 77 I think and the shock may have been De Carbon but I am not sure.

Up here in the north, virtually means not far off. I would think from the higher parts of GE Brown trial you can see just across valley to where Scott runs on outermost parts of grouse moor. JR Sunt who lives there can probably confirm if he reads this.

A noid light though useful only tells you if there is a burst of electrical activity of some sort. With the 4 channel scope you can measure for example the current and voltage to 2 injectors at the same time, the slightest discrepancy between the to is clearly visible but a noid check would not show this. With the scope I have a coil on plug sensor can be used for COP systems. Same thing with a HT coil, noid will show its OK and the coil may perform properly when engine is revved in garage. Put a scope on and its a fair bet you will see the defect that only intermittently manifests itself under sustained load. Integrated HT coil / CDI does not make much difference, I would just put sensors on coil secondary, stator source coil and stator signal coil. It is very simple to use, the only difficulty is interpreting if there is a fault when you get an unfamiliar abnormality on the waveform. When you read the electrical problems people post on TC it would make diagnosis far easier if manufacturers fitted a scope socket, and a list of what you should see when all is well. The modern PC based oscilloscopes are a long way from the first automotive cathode tube type scopes. Checking CPS, ABS wheel sensors and ignition is probably most common scope use. My kit cost not far short of £2k, but there are compact combined diagnostic code readers and scopes for less than £130 Which can do pretty well all the tests needed on trials bikes. When I get time I will see about posting some waveforms off trials bikes.

I have now been told by my local computer repair centre that this is a a type of fraud. It is very close to what you say in #10 except you do not have to visit or browse the sites to be inundated with adverts. Someone (without permission) puts some kind of bot on computers. This bot then makes it look as if you are looking at these sites and then the fraudsters can claim their advertising revenue which is based on the recorded number of visitors to the sites. As I implied earlier the ad made it look as if its Andy the TC site owner who is profiting from these ads when in fact it is the fraudsters.

They are to reduce the volume of the crankcase so it pumps fresh mixture into the cylinder more effectively

What size and type of carb is it ? give all the letters.

TC would not allow the file type for this image to be loaded so I photographed it whilst I had my camera handy. It shows the waveform of a 4 stroke electronic ignition spark. The blue line comes in from the left, where it drops is the start of coil charging, this lasts about 3 mS. Then there is about a 1mS squiggle and step as the coil current is switched to fire it. The voltage the rises suddenly to about 38 kV for about 1 mS then drops again. The very high spike at about 24.56 mS is the voltage "pressure" building up before the spark jumps the plug gap and gives the burn time. This 1 mS at 38 kV is the ignition spark burn. The 4 oscillations after it drops is called coil bounce and indicates the coil is in good order. This type of analysis is quick and easy and a lot better than swapping parts. For example if there were no charging section it probably means a CDI fault, if there is no switching step it could be CDI or trigger coil. This waveform is using a single sensor on the HT lead. This system is a 4 channel system and can give 4 traces at once. Had I put sensors on CI output to coil, Ignition source coil and trigger coil as well as HT I could have found the exact area of the fault with a quick spin of the engine.

This is what I am getting, Perhaps a little on the heavy side for dabster's liking. You can see why it looks as if these ads are under TCs control look at the text just under the pictures

I was just going by the year you gave for you bike. Both diagrams show the Transval 415 voltage regulator towards the bottom right hand side of the diagram. This is probably the component at fault, Although it says 12V expect the output may be less than 12V at low revs and up to 14.5 or even 15 as the revs rise, but I think 20 is too high. If you live near a car garage with electronic diagnostics equipment the should be able to check you coil in a couple of minutes without removing it from the bike. You will just have to start the bike and they will clip an inductive sensor round the HT lead. This should detect a faulty coil even if the symptoms are not showing as misfiring at the time.

Hi Andy, thanks for coming back on this. In between posts we get a message saying "Don't want these ads , why not help TC and sign up as a TC supporter". This suggests if you sign up you won't get these ads. As some of the recent pop ads have been from Bravissimo & Simply Be showing scantily clad rather attractive women I thought I would make a joke of it. We do get more irritating ads such as an I phone 5 dancing about. Have had some virus / adware / malware problemes including optimiser pro, and Looky Shoipper and something which is preventing me from opening the start menu to delete it. I have McAfee but sometimes it seems to take a few weeks to decide adware is a virus and block it.

Do pop up ads from Bravissimo and Simply Be deter people from subscribing as a trials central supporter?

If you don't mind discolouration the motocross method usually works OK, never tried the other on a tapered 2t pipe. There are two other rather specialised methods I know of that can be used on some dents. One is to hydraulically pressurise the pipe then carefully pein round the dent as it eases out. The other is to make up an insertable hydraulic jack using brake pipe, brake fittings and a grease gun.

I don't know how much influence Nigel Birkett (UK OSSA importer) has on development of the bike but if the manufacturers listen to his advice it should be a good bike and probably well sorted by now.

http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/Kok97to00.jpg Perhaps the above link (wiring diagram) will help

You don't say what your bike is but whatever I am 99% sure the ignition and fan circuits are completely separate. Cutting out when hot / warm and backfiring can be a sign of HT coil failure 20V is too much for your fan, sounds as if your voltage regulator is faulty

Beta clutch's seem to be variable between bikes no matter what you do to them. Many bikes suffer from clutch sticking when parked for a while. When cold I always start them in neutral, Then roll the bike forwards at a fast walking pace and low revs whilst easing them into first gear, then blip the throttle a few times with the clutch lever against the bars and it usually clears it almost immediately. I once left a 900 Honda parked over winter and had to drive about 2 miles doing this before the clutch freed.

Uneven low speed running can have so many causes it is difficult to advise over internet. You do need to carry out a pressure check, its not hard. All you need is a bung for the inlet and a blanking plate with a shrader (tyre) valve for the exhaust port at the barrel. Can you borrow a known good HT coil? On a 2004 my suspicion would be crank seals and piston / ring / bore wear.