dadof2

I was simply pointing out that other oils could look like Dexron III ATF, following the comment on the oil colour in Jim Snells video. With regard to individual persons rather than factories I have seen some pretty expensive equipment wrecked by supposedly competent persons substituting lubricants with incorrect alternatives. Regarding trial bikes I am near certain quite a few riders did their gearboxes no good by using pre Dexron III grades of ATF.

When testing a thermostat (or any other switch that controls a power supply) just using the resistance setting on a meter is not always reliable. Use a battery and something of similar wattage to your fan motor. Generally when testing car components use a 12v battery and a combination of bulbs.

After trying various bleeding methods for clutch and brakes I have now concluded that pressure bleeding is the best option. All you need is a spare master cylinder cap with a small hole in it to which you can apply compressed air, I found 30 PSI has always been sufficient. Often after rebuilding a cylinder the amount of fluid moved by the pistons normal stroke only causes the seal to flex, it does not move the slave piston forward. When you release the lever the piston moves back to its original position as the seal "unflexes". No matter how many times you bleed the piston just rocks back and forth. Pressure bleeding reliably overcomes this.

Just because the oil is red do not assume it is ATF / Dexron III. MT75 a manual gearbox lubricant is often the same red and only slightly more viscous. I would double check that you should use ATF in the TRS as MT75 is a light gearbox lubricant. If MT75 is specified, ATf Dexron 3 is usually not a suitable alternative.

Just thought I would add the following from a previous post. NOTE THE DATE Posted November 28, 2005 · Report post I agree Stuart. Full non stop is the answer. If the front wheel ceases moving in a forward direction then you have failed. Simple to understand for both riders observers and spectators. Don't blame the ACU though, they adopted FIM rules then the FIM changed them again. Now even the FIM are talking about non stop again. They are the ones messing us about.

A rider who completed the SSDT riding near DL most days reckoned that if no stop observing had been done properly DL would have been on nearer 50 marks than 1. Regarding club / centre level observing I think that an online education video (so long as its done properly) would improve things greatly. also hand out a card of observing instructions to all riders & observers. At WTC and possible BTC level use technology (Cricket, Tennis football do). The technology exists as follows. You would need something like a section long reinforced flexible conduit with transponders say every 1000 to 500mm. Each bike carries a transmitter / receiver that calculates its distance from and motion relative to the transponders in the conduit. Stops or deviation from section could be ascertained with a high degree of accuracy. Sensors in the riders boots could also detect footing The transmitter on the bike then sends the outcome to the observer and or scoreboard at the section where a stronger transmitter could send it on to the control centre for instant results. Completely fair and unbiased for all riders. If WTC can't afford to implement this to stop the present circus they should cease any pretence to WTC being a "professional" competition.

I liked the look of the TRS first time I saw one. Having seen JS videos I am to use Jim's words' impressed. Thick weldable aluminium castings, simple and easy to work on, good sized bearings etc.

That megahorn is exactly the type I use. I only fit it at MOT time. Have had it about 5 years and still on the same battery. Try wiggle and Chain reaction cycles for same item at cheaper price. My tester would not pass the M Part mini mega horn. It has a sort of shrill two tone sound.

As you don't report similar problems with your right hand which has to operate both the brake and throttle I would consider what regular exercise you have been giving your right hand and try taking turns at that with your left instead.

I have had good long lasting results with http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/specialist-decorative-paints/halfords-very-high-temperature-paint-black-300ml Halfords also do brush on but I have not use these on exhausts. For any paint to last on exhausts, the surface has to be prepared properly by sand blasting and the paint cured properly. Sperex used to do a good high temp exhaust paint but I have not seen it for some years.

Wonder what would be said if the minder of a rider who had already ridden the section squirted some oil or diesel onto the rocks! That would be fun. Several years ago I was watching an easy / beginners trial. A lad on his first or second trial kicked a rock off a camber that had just rolled there from the previous rider. The CoC (who was also competing) saw him and gave him a right berating. Later that day I saw the CoC and his friend moving rock after rock in another section as they prepared to ride it.

Whether its a stop or not is perhaps not the most depressing part of this, its the arguments that follow causing observers to quit that is having and will continue to have a more serious effect at club / centre level in particular.

From the manual " A motor bicycle first used before 1 August 1973 may be fitted with a bulb horn" However as well as the manual testers receive notices which can contradict general information in the manual. I cannot give a definitive answer with regard to horns but I think it is the case that if pre 1973 motorcycles were fitted with an electric horn as standard (many were) then the tester can require them to be fitted with an electric horn. Edit - a reason for failure is "horn missing" I suppose with regard to the above the tester could take the view that a pre 73 motorcycle that was manufactured with an electric horn, could be said to have a horn missing if the original type electric horn is not there If you carefully remove the writing on the tyre with a flapper disc in an angle grinder the buff mark is near invisible, far less than scuffs caused by normal use.

The following is posted with the benefit of studying the MOT manual and discussing points with a experienced MOT tester who in some of the instances has had extra clarification from VOSA. The tester tests a large number of kit cars, quads, classic vehicles and on and off road motorcycles, trikes and sidecars. The bike only requires a reflector if it has lights fitted. If no lights then no reflector needed. The tester must note the absence of lights as an advisor. It is the wording in the manual that often leads to confusion on this point. A speedometer and or odometer need not be fitted however their absence must be noted as an advisor A number plate must be fitted and the bike must have a clear frame / VIN No that matches the DVLA records. Most testers will allow plates that do not strictly comply with the requirements so long as they are readable from 15 meters behind the bike. The tester can refuse to test the motorcycle if he considers the chain guard missing or inadequate. The horn must emit a continuous tone. This means bulb horns are not suitable. The horn must therefore be electric or compressed air. The tone must be continuous (this is a subjective judgement on the part of the tester). Some modulation or variation of the tone is usually permitted but something that is clearly 2 tone or significantly modulated like and emergency services horn will fail. Tyre rotation indicators must point in the correct direction. Tyre wording such as: not for highway service, not for highway use, not for road use etc. The onus is on the person presenting the bike for MOT to prove that this wording does not apply to the UK. My testers advice is to buff off this wording prior to presenting the bike. The MOT manual is quite a long document. There are sections in it that require subjective judgements and that means having appropriate knowledge. A quick fit type MOT tester is not the place to take a trials bike. As Gasserguy posts its best to find a tester who knows what they are looking at.

The bike only requires a reflector if it has lights fitted. If no lights then no reflector needed. The tester must note the absence of lights as an advisor. It is the wording in the manual that often leads to confusion on this point.

4ts and 2ts should run at about the same temperature in the cylinder head area. 4ts tend to have a hot engine all over because the engine oil picks up heat from the head and carries it to the crankcases. 2ts on the other hand have the fresh cold fuel / air mix regularly entering and cooling the crankcase. If the fan is on all or much of the time check your radiator. You have to take it off and look through it at the light. Fine dirt / dust gets between the fins and cakes on creating a very effective insulator. Radiators easily lose 20 to 40% of their cooling capacity due to this especially with short front mudguards.

Its not so much the spring length that matters as the sag when you are on the bike. If you stand on the bike in the usual position the rear suspension should be compressed by about 1/3rd of its travel. Pull up on the bars and weight the foot rests as if you are going to go over an 18 inch step and the rear suspension should compress to about 1/2 its travel. Get someone to film you riding typical sections. If the suspension bottoms more than occasionally the spring is too soff or maybe you need more compression damping.

If you do decide to buy it just spend enough to get it in decent condition to ride in trials yourself and enjoy it. IMO there are far too many old bikes being done up / lot of money spent and offered for sale rather than ridden by the restorer. I note quite a few Bultos have failed to reach their reserve on Ebay recently. Unless you are desperate to try to make some cash far better to leave them to someone who will actually ride them.

Anyone know why some verigos have single diameter headstocks whereas others are reduced diameter in middle?

Probably not directly employed as public / civil servants anymore b ut more likely than not just the same people working working for a contractor who bid to operate the service / DVLA for the government at lowest price. Still since they hand out plenty of sh-ite then there is still good reason to deposit as much sh-ite on them as possible.

I was in a similar situation to this and I got the bike MOTd and taxed it in 2013. Never heard anything more even though the bike should have been SORNd for about 10 years from 2002. I get repeated problems with the DVLA because I have vehicles that are intermittently sorned / taxed but continually insured for road use. I would advise anyone who has problems with DVLA incompetence to write to their MP. Public servants do not like having to respond to MPs enquiries and it causes quite a bit of nuisance for them.

348 Cotas had Akront fat bars. Not tapered like modern bars. Made of thicker tube (about 25mm) and turned down to about 7/8 inch at the ends for the levers and grips. Very god bars they were. When you changed to standard Renthal bars (Akront fat bars unavailable) you had to fit the shim pieces.

My feeling is that its better to have the bike too small rather than too large. Small / young riders can ride full sized bikes but they will generally have far more fun on something smaller that is easy to pick up and start.

The best thing you can do for a MAR rear brake is fit a decompressor

If you buy rattle cans (aerosols) from a motor factors or auto paint supplier you will probably find they come with far too large / usually fan shaped nozzle that is unsuitable for motorcycle frame work. The nozzles (round spray pattern) on Halfords or similar cans are far smaller and easier to control. The paint in ready mixed cans is thinner and not as hard wearing as the paint in rattle cans that is made up to match your colour. If you posted exactly what you are trying to do I could post more advice or as you are in southern scotland try:https://carlisle.cylex-uk.co.uk/company/carlisle-panel-factors-ltd-14266069.html is part of the BMF group which I think has branches throughout Northern England and the Borders.