dadof2

I wonder how much of the decision is James's and how much is the Gasgas factory. Modern bikes are designed with one day trials / WTC in mind, not 6 days with little maintenance. Sure most bikes will last a week but both the SSDT and the Scott throw up failures that can be can be bad for the factories image. A SSDT or Scott win probably does not influence a rider to buy a particular brand but a well publicised failure of a supported rider on a factory bike is bad publicity. The factories probably see little to gain by competing in the SSDT.

Autoglym bumper restorer (I am not sure if that is its exact name) does a good job of making polypropylene tanks look better. Scuff marks can sometimes be removed by scraping with a stanley knife blade then warming the area very carefully with a hot air gun.

http://www.newsandstar.co.uk/news/latest/Police-blunder-caused-bomb-squad-to-be-called-to-suspicious-car-in-Cumbria-f43cc329-5629-462d-84a8-6bbaf84d18b2-ds The above is causing quite a laugh locally. It comes on top of another incorrect announcement yesterday - a car was reported to having been killed in a crash that injured 4 pedestrians. In fact the driver died before the crash and his passenger pulled on the handbrake and caused the car to crash

My guess is that so long as it is clear with no milkiness or sediments it will probably be OK to use. However it was as far as I know designed as a competition gearbox oil and as such would probably not have long life as a priority. As another poster says, why chance it for £15 or so. Keep it as a flushing oil in case you ever get water in your gearbox.

It could be that the beads are not seating properly in the rim. Its difficult to explain without a diagram but if the bead grips the rim as the tyre is inflated it twists rather than seating properly. Make sure there is no flash on the beads, clean the rim thoroughly and then lubricate both the bead and the rim with plenty of aluminium grade tyre fitting lube. Inflate to 50 or 60 PSI and leave at this for 30 minutes. If this does not work there probably is a mismatch between tyre and rim and you will have to try one of the other suggestions. Sometimes using impact adhesive (do not allow to go tacky) as a tyre fitting lube works.

Check with Vertigo to make sure but I don't think it has any sensors that will be harmed by lead. On a car lambda sensors and some MAF sensors are harmed by lead but I am pretty certain the Vertigo does not have these.

I am surprised you and your sons found the Ty difficult, the none down 4 up is one of the easiest gearboxes to learn on as is the torquey hard to stall motor. I would advise a Gasgas 80 as the next step. Friends sons have had both Beta and GG 80s and the GG was the better all round bike. Whatever you get it is as well to brush up on your mechanical skills, all trials bikes need some work and trailing to a dealer frequently will be frustrating and probably expensive. Better still get your son to learn to do his own fixing.

The reason I mentioned 220 BHP is because you inferred that what I was saying was incorrect because trials bikes have more power than in the 1970s, You will get more traction and stability in a higher gear no matter what the power output. Perhaps one of the reasons for Millers outstanding success, not just at trials but also at road racing and MX was because he understood how to find traction and one of his methods of doing this was to pull a higher gear. As I said previously its the laws of physics / mechanics and those same laws apply to MX F1 etc and that is why they shortshift, thereby lowering the engine revs for a given speed, exactly the same as running a higher gear in trials, to lessen the chance of loosing traction. If you look back at the original post he states that he is struggling in first gear yet notes that Dan Thorpe who is going better is using second. That observation sums up what I have been saying. The lower the gear they greater the torque being applied at the tire contact patch, the higher the torque (force on the joint) the more likely that joint is to give way.

No ND I am correct it is you who are wrong - learn some basic physics / mechanics. Perhaps you think all the MX1, Moto GP and F1 drivers are wrong too when the short shift to avoid loss of traction in slippery conditions. You will also find some cars / vehicles with auto transmission have a sand / snow setting. This changes the gearbox so they set off in second gear to get more grip. I have first hand experience of one of these veicles (220 BHP) which is a fair bit more than any trials bike

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/St+Blazey+Mx/@50.3652646,-6.9446186,7z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x7afd1300e3716ed3!8m2!3d50.3652646!4d-4.7121625

The growing classic bike and classic car restoration numbers. The production of retro styled bike by all the major manufacturers. Apart from possibly the prestige of WTC wins further trials bike evolution is pointless. Manufacturers should concentrate on rectifying weaknesses (The original aim of trials) Whether a manual is paper er e copy is not the issue, its quality and quantity of information in them that is important. All current trials manuals are lacking to greater or lesser extents.

I was not suggesting the SSDT sections were the same as 40 years ago. However they for the most part are still slippery cobbles / boulders where maintaining forwards momentum is a key factor, unlike most WTC dry grippy sections which favour a hesitate / stop and launch it approach. The higher the gear used the less likely is wheel spin irrespective of the speed, this as stated by Miller is still true today.

Perhaps we are coming to the time when further evolution is not that desirable. The more bikes evolve, the greater the number who will choose retro or classic classes. It could be quite a help if several manufacturers evolved their manuals to the standard or better of 1980s Honda MX manuals. People might then be able to fix their bikes instead of posting so many simple queries and problems on TC.

If you are concerned your exhaust fumes may be bothering those behind you in the queue, try the following. Put your bike in 5th or 6th gear, Tilt it onto the sidestand to take the weight off the rear wheel. Give it a good handful of throttle and spin the rear wheel up to clear out the tread. Those behind will soon forget about a few fumes Works even better in a river

There are overwhelming reasons why riding in a higher gear is better on traditional no stop SSDT style sections. It is the equivalent of short shifting in racing cars or MX on slippery tracks to gain to improve traction and stability. Sammy Millers book "Clean to the finish" (now selling for £100 to £1,000 per copy) gives a good explanation. I can remember recommending this book to the lady poster who used to ride a Beta, now a 4RT about a year or two ago when there was a copy available for £35. Would have been a good investment. If any one knows Sammy closely perhaps they could talk him into doing a reprint of all his books.

Agree with the original poster. I am pretty sure Miller, Lampkin, Rathmell etc did all or most of their own routine maintenance and repairs when they were works / development riders. Not the case today, with support teams, minders, lots of mechanics etc. If top riders still had to fettle their own bikes, often a long way from support vans its a fair bet they would put more priority on making them reliable and easy to fix. I was thinking of posing the following in the trials bike evolution thread but will put it here. Its not just bikes that are affected by this "form over function" trend. Car headlight units or bulbs used to be cheap and easy to replace. List price for a headlight unit for my previous car was about £85 but i could get an identical pattern unit for under £30. My new car is same make / model name but has those fancy wrap round headlights. Light output is no better (actually slightly worse) and they are a fortune to replace (over £250 so I am told by a colleague who had to replace one). The new ones are made of plastic so go dull whereas the previous ones were glass which in normal use lasted the life of the car.

5 JAN 2017 — Dear Supporter, Thank you so much for signing our petition, the response over the Christmas period has been incredible and we are really starting to make progress. Writing in 'The Telegraph' over the weekend, Boris Johnson MP has argued that the Vnuk ruling on compulsory motor insurance for any mechanically propelled vehicle is "insane". In a striking attack against the European Court of Justice, the Foreign Secretary defends the right of "every free-born Brit to pootle blissfully on his own quad bike on his own private land" in his unique characteristic style. Despite the strong opposition to the 'Vnuk' ruling, while the United Kingdom remains a member of the European Union, HM Government is bound to implement the Directive which will affect motorsport across the country. We are asking that HM Government under no circumstances implements the 'Vnuk' judgement in a way that encompasses vehicles involved in motor and motorcycle sport activities.You can help us by sharing the petition amongst your friends, family and fellow motorsport enthusiasts!Yours in sport, Tristan Robinson Dan SummersFight 'Vnuk' www.fightvnuk.co.uk

Firstly - Can this topic be moved to and continued on the original post. Secondly 5 JAN 2017 — Dear Supporter, Thank you so much for signing our petition, the response over the Christmas period has been incredible and we are really starting to make progress. Writing in 'The Telegraph' over the weekend, Boris Johnson MP has argued that the Vnuk ruling on compulsory motor insurance for any mechanically propelled vehicle is "insane". In a striking attack against the European Court of Justice, the Foreign Secretary defends the right of "every free-born Brit to pootle blissfully on his own quad bike on his own private land" in his unique characteristic style. Despite the strong opposition to the 'Vnuk' ruling, while the United Kingdom remains a member of the European Union, HM Government is bound to implement the Directive which will affect motorsport across the country. We are asking that HM Government under no circumstances implements the 'Vnuk' judgement in a way that encompasses vehicles involved in motor and motorcycle sport activities.You can help us by sharing the petition amongst your friends, family and fellow motorsport enthusiasts!Yours in sport, Tristan Robinson Dan SummersFight 'Vnuk' www.fightvnuk.co.uk

Fantic used to match piston to bore using low pressure blowby air flow measurement so you probably can never repeat original engine quietness although is someone like Lancourt replates your bore and matches it to your piston with clearance on the tight side you should get very near. The best way to get a quiet (and long lasting piston) piston to bore fit is to get the bore honed about 0.0005 inch too tight, then run the engine fairly very gently for 1/2 hour, let it cool then run it a bit harder (no more than 1/2 throttle) for another 1/2 hour then strip it and wet and dry the high spots from the piston. Then run in as normal http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69390-silkolene-classic-2t-premix-sae-40-synthetic-ester-2-stroke-and-rotary-engine-oil.aspx is far better for air cooled engines than modern 2t oils which tend to be thinner (SAE 20 to 30) for watercooled engines.

TKM or Parilla? Using 2 or 3 engines for one days practice and racing was not uncommon.

I and quite a few other ran 11/39. Puts first gear where second is on standard gearing. Quite a few riders found they never needed original first gear and the 11/39 made 3rd gear ace for hill climb sections and 4th ideal for moorland crossing, and a decent 5th for road work.

The piston in the photo is not necessarily scrap. It has just had a light nip up, there is hardly any wear on the skirt. Clean the nip up marks off with fine (800 to 1200) wet and dry, scraped out the ring grooves if the rings do not move freely and it should be OK.

Glad you found it quick. I now always test new (or suspect) points for conductivity before fitting. Checking them with a meter typically puts about 9V across them but very low current flow. To test them properly it is far better to use a 12 volt car battery and a headlight bulb. Check the voltage drop or compare the bulb brightness with and without the points in the circuit. It is surprising how many points fail this test yet show zero or very little resistance with an ohm meter check. Same principle applies to relays - they need to be tested using a decent load to ensure they actually conduct properly.

Miller, Vesterinen, Schreiber, Lejeune, Michaud, Tarres, Lampkin, Bou

I misunderstood your first post, I thought it was the primary drive gear you were having problems with. I know of several problems with output shaft final drive sprocket but none include the sprocket splitting. Problems included sprocket bore being too large. The sprocket is then nipped onto the gearbox bearing not the taper. In one case at least this caused gearbox failure. These were not Talon. Some others failed because the bore was too rough. Started rotating on the shaft. I have never known a problem with a genuine Mont sprocket, but once any has failed on a taper the replacement should be lapped in with fine grinding paste.