dadof2

Try a larger float valve, higher octane fuel or a colder spark plug.

Brake service by professional if no parts needed £40 to £60. Nearly always all brakes need is a strip, clean and new fluid. All the info is in past posts in Beta section.

To test injectors I rig up a pressurised petrol supply (40 PSI) using a regulator, but a supply from a tyre inflated to 30 PSI plus should do. To supply the injector with electrical pulses I have an old model railway transformer that can supply AC or pulsed DC. I generally test at 25 Hz pulsed DC, starting at low voltage and turning it up until it is just sufficient to fire the injector. I would think tapping the wire on a battery terminal would work reasonably. Remember injectors are only meant to be fire for a few m/sec. Keeping the current on longer will trash them EDIT - remember electrical sparks + sprayed petrol = explosion Probably best to do test in garden. I only use a small volume of petrol, probably about 2 to 3 cc per injector.

Sounds like it needs a complete service. From your post I guess you are not an experience mechanic and not familiar with brakes. Have a good read on the Beta section of TC, there is lots of good advice. If you post your location you might be lucky and find someone local who could help.

I was on a bus recently at about 11,000 ft. the bus had no problem, the cars and motorcycles had no problem, only the cyclists looked a bit knackered. If the Ossa can't cut it with these mundane everyday vehicles it just about says it all about 2T EFI.

Try regular octane fuel to speed up the combustion. What you have may not be usual pinking. At low RPM in a big cylinder with soft / retarded mapping the burn can be slow and incomplete when the next new fuel air charge enters the cylinder, this causes sort of "bonging" and uneven running not unlike pinking. Squish clearance may need checking. EDIT - If you are running a lean oil mix and your piston / rings / bore is worn you could be getting blowby into the crank case contaminating the new incoming charge. This can cause the similar symptoms

Not ethanol, just crap quality fuel pipe. Genuine Honda is the best, Still as new after 25 years use.

I had better not post my viewing guide, it proved a bit controversial last year. There is really only one place to view the Scott and that is looking over the handlebars of your bike whilst taking part.

Try 125s before you buy. They are a bit gutless / lack torque at low revs particularly in 2nd gear upwards. If you are used to the "ploddy" sy with plenty of bottom end pull you may not like this. I would go for a 200 or 250.

I think the TRS has a "crankshaft" bearing in the flywheel case. This may make fitting a weight a bit trickier than usual. Lower compression? Smaller bore carb? Reduce the diameter of the exhaust either at the engine or tailpipe using an insert?

Often the problem is corrosion build up in the seal grooves. Polish the grooves out with steel wool or rolled up very fine wet N dry paper. A dentists mirror (cheap on ebay) is useful for checking the grooves. Do not put rubber grease in the seal grooves.

The Honda manuals supplied with the bikes are probably the best of any manufacturer, certainly better than those that come with 2Ts. However I was comparing the information available for trials bike with that available in a manufacturer level car manual. A typical Honda motorcycle is about A4 or A5 size and 15mm thick, The car manual I was comparing it to is 5 volumes, A4 height but wider and totalling about 300mm thick. The honda EFI & ignition systems generally work OK but electronics and combustion technology has moved on a lot in 11 years. For both Honda and the 2Ts my criticism is the lack of information and OBD compatibility for when they do not work, not a criticism of the systems when they are working. Honda are a very strange company, generally very high quality but at the same time they have an ideological addiction to 4T that is bordering on insanity. Remember the NR 500? Why go to the bother of developing complex 4T engines with EFI when other manufacturers can meet the same objectives with 2Ts with simple crank case pulse pumped FI.

I prefer a carb and still think, taking all factors into account that it is the most appropriate method of fuelling an off road 2T. I note Beta have achieved Euro 4 with a Carb. Compared to electronic ignition points have a clear disadvantage as regards engine performance and routine maintenance, but if they go wrong they are easier and cheaper to diagnose and fix. The point of this topic is that, manufacturers having decided to fit EFI should do it properly. The Honda / Montesa EFI system was right for its time and the majority of its applications. That does not mean it is still the best system for an off road motorcycle, particularly when battery improvements are taken into account. I have a car with a lot of complex electronic components, most of which are hidden and extremely difficult to access. However for under £200 I can have a device that plugs in and tells me what is going on with all those systems, not only that but the same device can activate those system so I can be sure they are working. Also I can download a full manufacturers manual for about £12, by comparison the manuals supplied with trials bike are totally inadequate. Motorcycle manufacturers need to do better, both regards what they fit and the diagnostics information they supply.

Anyone heard of these bikes having fuel tank leaks?

Quite some time ago I posted (and was ridiculed by some) on the advantages of a battery and programmable ignition spark profile. Now it seems most (if not all) trials bike manufacturers are fitting twin spark systems (requiring complex and expensive alternators) to improve performance and reduce emissions. Vertigo also have to have batteries, as did Ossa, after failure of none battery systems. Some Vertigo owners are having problems with EFI and ignition issues and judging by posts on TC the problem for the now ageing Ossas is proving unsurmountable for their owners to resolve. Surely it is time trials bike manufacturers moved into the 21st century and start fitting properly designed battery based systems with Standard OBD compatibility.

That car (the genuine one anyway) was MOTd on 9 August so it should be easy enough to trace and check thoroughly, if the police can be bothered. Having seen what goes on in BD housing estates its a fair bet your bike will raced round a bit then dumped.

Who gives a shyte anyway?

They do unscrew but can be tight. You need to get a bit of thick walled pipe bored so that it is an exact fit on the slider / seal retainer. Then drill and tap (M6) 4 holes in it to line up with the holes in the retainer. The pipe needs a handle welded to it. Turn down the end of 4 No M6 screws to screw into the slider holes. Put the whole fork leg in the freezer for 30 minutes. Take it out, clamp the bottom (where spindle goes through) in vice. Heat the retainer and with the tool you have made it should undo fairly easily. It is Right hand thread so anti clockwise to undo.

Looking to buy a small item off Ebay a few days ago so I made a best offer. Item was free postage. Counter offer came back a bit under the original price but it was excluding postage and you could easily miss this. Had I gone ahead with the purchase the total amount would have been more that the original full price.

Our tip will not take tyres, I have to cut them up with a grinder then put them in the domestic waste bag.

Anyone remember the ossalots (I think that is what they were called) they did a lap of Olivers Mount at Scarborough, side by side on their back wheels in the 70s. I think it was 250 MARs they were on.

HT coil is my guess, or maybe source coil or maybe a bit of both.

In general on a trials bike octane booster is not needed, may even reduce power. TY250 monos were known for pinking so if best quality pump fuel such as BP ultimate does not prevent pinking try octane booster. I would read up on pinking / detonation / pre ignition to try to make yourself aware of its symptoms so you can tell if your bike is pinking. Then you can decide if octane booster or another remedy is appropriate. Road racing 2 strokes used to be fitted with pinking detectors / counters and some 4 strokes use knock detectors to give engine management information.

Jitsies design copies the human breathing system and that generally works OK. Unlike the human system no one has yet designed a self cleaning air filter for a bike.

The TRS is pretty traditional, all the parts are of well proven designs so there is no reason why TRS should not be reliable. The brake and clutch hose fittings at the handlebars look a bit fragile and I would like to see a bit more width (just a few more mm) on the sump guard but apart from that the bike looks sound.