02-apr

Certainly there was a special test to end with when it finished in Edinburgh.

Get the bike running, get it moving by foot then press into gear. Keep the clutch held in and work your way up the gearbox. The clutch will probably free off about 4th gear.

I find "Hanging out" is easier while standing up on a trials bike. Indeed, while I might sit down to ride a trials bike on "fast" going at a medium pace, once I start going fast I stand up as it's easier to get it round the corners. I lean the bike rather than my body and my bike together as one would on a road bike. Given that, my feeling is that, by standing up, the centre of gravity of what is being leant is actually lowered as the bodyweight acts through the footrests. Cue discussion on "ye cannae change the Laws O' Physics Captain".

Mine won't clear the frame with piston at BDC, the lug for the top mount catches under the tank. Must be a combination of manufacturing tolerances.

Don't forget to use a new circlip if you do this. You only need to suffer once the consequences of a circlip coming out not to take the chance a second time!

The best trials bike for trail riding is, possibly, any one you can actually sit on. My Beta 200 though I would happily ride any distance standing up but I've no idea on the altitude effect at that height. Gaps between ratios have never been a problem on the rough for me. "I think the noise plays a part now as well so quiet machines, ............... are the way forward." Which rules out the 4RT. I'm sure the guys who lay out the SSDT have found that the 4RT is a bit greedy on petrol too - they have had to recalculate the fuel stops for them.

From my experience you have somehow got diesel in the tank.

Like it or not the fact of the matter is that if one of your unlicenced wobblers wobbles in to a "spectator"/parked car etc (who may or may not have anything to do with the event) the insurance company will step swiftly backwards leaving the Club liable. If they were to indemnify the competitor they would recover sums involved - step forward Mr Club Secretary, your house is first to go!

I agree with the theory on the main silencer but my TY, acquired this year, has the two piece and I have repacked the tail silencer - it's still way too loud. But then Yams were always that bit sharper in sound than, say, an RL. I suppose the main silencer could be cut, packed and rewelded.

I think the whole point is that they do affect seat height, allowing a seated position for travel over distance. Basically it's a tank/seat unit that sits atop the existing. http://www.trialsnuts.com/BetaLRK.htm

You've had it chum - there's no such thing as a cheap replacement for a Beta guard though there may be small variations in price between years of Rev 3. I gather also that those for earlier models may be less prone to breakage but others will have more to say on that.

Nope - John Scott.

Back in the days when we carried a reasonably comprehensive toolkit round every trial a small bumbag was sufficient, though we never carried a drink (the routes often went by a pub ). There seem to be larger bumbags available nowadays with a drinks bottle holder incorporated.

I agree with what was said above, it should be easy to get a Bultaco to run properly. Or go for broke - back in the 80s a pal put a 500 Triumph in a Bultaco frame and rode it in nationals. Mind you he also put a Saab motor in a BSA frame.

"this means your running yours at about 60-1 ish it must be gargling on the stuff " Don't rely on the markings on an Ipone bottle, they're well out at the sort of ratios we use. Get a syringe and use that.

Carb tips forward and down. Cue Beta type problems?

I didn't know if you were referring to Peter or his brother but, now that I do, I'm sure that somewhere I have a rather poor photo of Peter at Rhubha Rhuadh which could take a bit of digging out. I'll see what I can do.

Surely better to buy a Sherpa than destroy what, over here in Britain, would be regarded as an interesting rarity? Horses for courses.

Make your own dipstick perhaps.

Mudguards that don't break when subjected to a severe look?

I knew it was dangerous to let you loose with a sharp implement. Now we have another unexplained mystery of the universe.

The (obviously new by appearance) lever on my TY 175 seemed to be what is generally available ie a poor quality item which did not fold in correctly and sat at the wrong angle such that it was near impossible to use with muddy boots. Anyway it has now broken at the boss and I wondered if anything else, old or modern, would fit. Any ideas, even if only a lever to fit the pivot that I have left?

White smoke is a classic sign of diesel in the tank (don't ask me how I know!). "A friend of mine fitted the stator for me (motorcycle technician) - is there anyway this could have an effect on the timing etc?" The timing is adjusted by rotating the stator plate. See Beta UK website for info on how to set it up.

If you can see the bearing itself then you have removed everything necessary. If it does not respond to sensible use of the hammer then something is wrong but I can't think what.

If you have removed the threaded ring then a tap with a hammer (soft faced) should move the stem.