zerorev3rev4

well done neil i didnt think it would be nice for you guys and observers

yes its the same

possible rear pistons sticking in calliper heat builds up making problem worse ,or are you catching pedal whilst riding ,,does wheel spin freely when cold? is there slack in the pin that operates the master cylinder ,is piston sticking inside master cylinder ,,air will not cause this ,, fat bars wont help your hands either ,it is poss more to do with the position of the bars try moving back and if your tall get some spacers to lift them up

sounds fuel/mixture related poss fuel flow restricted common problem with later sherco,s some times new fuel filter helps maybe check flow from tank ,, or could be crank seals ,,, there is also a problem with bad cdi,s but they tend to give very hot running symptoms

also is the tyre in good condition ie not old and rounded nobbles if it hasnt been turned you could turn it to gain a sharper edge on the nobble which is needed for grip in mud

is the inside bore venturi narrower ? what size jets are in the carbs

you may have to cut a hole out of the silencer leaving a bit of an edge for a larger piece to be riveted and sealed back on , try splat shop for fork seals or poss ebay ,the sherco came out in 99 so it is the first bike they made from what i know they never had a rotax fitted ( have you got a scorpa ) the centre screw on the carb adjusts the tick over if the mixture screw is engine side its out to richen if its to airbox side its in to richen , if it is a 99 sherco i remember them having a very small idle jet which was prone to blocking up so make sure you have a fuel filter on it and your fuel can is clean inside you can also filter fuel when filling up

sounds like slow running jet is blocked or the slow running circuit is fouled remove carb and clean out again ,it is best to adjust air screw until it runs nice i mean stock does not take into account air temperature humidity or altitude as this is obviously different for everyone

Float height may need adjusting or look at rev3 over flowing problems

Use a banjo bolted to tank piece hose to an inline tap off ebay

oiling the air filter will make it worse so only lightly oil ,if your daughter is only pottering it might not be getting hot enough to burn fuel fully ,it may have too larger main jet or pilot jet you could screw mixture out only 1 turn there is no set amount you adjust it to make it run right if its not right at half a turn out it needs a smaller pilot jet ideally one and a half turns out if your far off that it needs a different size jet ,and get a smaller main jet

dont look too closely or wear goggles as brake fluid in the eyes is worse than petrol and it will spit back

as long as it is an 02 and not a 2000 sold as 02 as 2000 has a side entry for air box

i have a spare head and cylinder if needed

does the m1 have what i call a dabbler that pushes the float down to over fill the float chamber to act as a choke , this was probably changed to a proper choke on the mk1.5 then there was a mk1.5 with a fuel bowl held on by a spring clip then the mk2 with plastic threaded top and square fuel bowl id say the jet sizes are simulare if the venturi (inside bore diameter ) is the same give or take depending on the motor set up they have been tuned to ,from what i gather , you can google the differnt carb images

sounds like it is flooding see what difference turning fuel off makes once started , is air filter ok and no airways restricted , float level could be wrong causing too hi fuel level ,also check for damaged reeds and they are closing ok ,check if spark still looks good after it stalls

try getting a hpi report ,back it up with a letter from a dealer that can back age up ,i would of just sent for a v5 and seen what happened the copy should have been enough the details poss got lost when they went computerised

i have or had a 200 cylinder from an 04 i broke for spares and dont remember seeing a liner in it

very good chance condensor breaking down causing weak intermitant spark causing unburnt fuel fouling plug worsening problem , id snip wire to condensor through hole in flywheel and use an old type beatle or mini or mg type wired to coil under tank to prevent getting hot

Make sure you can find replacements before removing

i confirm there was a faulty batch of cdi,s causing poor running and giving very hot symptoms, fault was intamittant mainly occurred when going was tough

have you tried a clutch lightener fits on cable near lever or is that what you mean by geared lever ,, a good quality long lever will help and make sure cable is good and everything is in line , i tried a clutch on a gripper as standard and was surprised how light it was

you will have the ****co lovers after you

yes iam sure it does under the tank panel

What are you trying to achieve do you mean mono alloy swing arm