mattylad

Start engine, pull in clutch, point bike in direction of wide open spaces, gently snick into gear at low revs, you will now be moving forward hence previous, keep clutch in and press down on rear brake. clutch will free

Best mod you can make is to lengthen swing arm by between 1 and 2 inches combined with lower and rearward footrests. Stops it rearing up as often. Engine wise you can use a DT 175 cylinder for more power. Otherwise a piston with larger reed intake holes such as Dt or IT 175 is also good. Wiseco It175 or prox Dt200r prox is probably better but depends on avaliability The exhaust is very restrictive so make sure it flows Airbox inlet cover open out as far as possible Open reed cage stops outwards by a few mm

Don Morelys book Classic British Trials Bikes has some details as well

If you oil a filter there is a risk that the amount of oil will be different and this will affect air flow and hence carburation. I run my filter dry, however I use a white spray grease to coat the inside of the airbox, this helps to collect dust that has got past the filter. The white allow you to see dirt easily. Periodically I apply a fresh coating to ensure it remains sticky. Once or twice a year I take off the filter and remove the old grease with a solvent. Two trains of thought you decide!

try John Lampkin Beta Uk Importer Steve Goode Welshpool Google to find

A couple of weeks ago I was riding in a trial in Luxembourg and was waiting to ride a section when the observer shouted me to stop. The previous rider had got a bit off line and started to dig out a hole. He got down to something a bit more solid which was a steel canister two foot long and about 8 inch diameter. You've guessed it a second world war shell had been unearthed! No worries the day must go on so someone picked it up and I'm not kidding you threw it to the side of the section. Drama over section clear, I can tell you I certainly didn't go off line! Anyone got a story of a similar nature?

I went through an exercise of measuring or calculating spring rate on a number of twinshock and modern bikes. The twinshock averaged around 19 to 20 lb/in and the modern are 22 lb/in. I then got some made up by my local spring maker to put modern spring rate in my twinshock forks.

Thanks sorted!!

I want to build a one piece silencer for my Yamaha TY. At first glance the Sherco design looks to be a good starting point. Does anyone have any photos of a cut open silencer so I can estimate how big the "central" box is and then how it feeds into the "tailpipe" Thanks for your help.

Sandifords are always good for montesa parts. Fair number being used in Belgium at the moment and they seem to go well.

Congratulations on your Beta. Tha engine parts are common to the TR33 and TR34 Betas so spares are fairly easy to come by. (at least in Europe) In the UK Steve Goode Motorcycles (google it) is very good for spares. Or try John Lampkin at Beta UK The only problem I had with mine was a duff motoplat ignition. Check underside of swing arm to see if it is cracked near the holes used to locate the side stand.

The RTL and TLR 250 are fetching about the same money so its a cost effective way of getting a better twinshock. Wouldn't do it to mine though!!!

There is a chapter in the Don Morley book Classic British Two Stroke trials on DMW. I own one of the much later 1976 fuel in frame bikes.

Thanks for your help!

Can anyone advise me of the correct colour, or even remember what sort of yellow it was. Light dark sickly stc

Longer shocks would not raise the gearing as the spatial relationsip between terra firma and the rear wheel spindle remains constant. Please be more careful with your analysis, obviously the only way this can happen is if you put more air in the rear tyre.

When you consider the damage that can be caused by a spark not to mention the loss of human life it seems a small price to pay. If not I'm sure a total ban on riding would be the solution

Many thanks for the replies, certainly an interesting perspective. I myself have never ridden one but will remedy that this summer. Any period brochure pics would be fantastic. My friend has gone with the geen Kawa tank and not the gollner yellow peril as I think they were known. In my whole riding experience i have only ever seen 1 compete in a trial that was in south yorshire in the late seventies ridden by a guy called Chris Pears I think.

I am looking for some pictures, preferably colour for a friend of mine in France to finish off a Gollner Kawa. Also is anyone currently using one in twinshock trials and can they tell me what rear shocks you are using. Thanks

I have seen a tidy example in belgium, the engine fits if you remove all the tool box cross brace. He then welded as long a piece of replacement brace as could be fitted to the front down tube and top tube. Sorry don't have any photos I could send you

Horizon moto near Marsaille?

I you need a cheap fix for the rubber straps, bend some coat hanger wire into a flatten loop to hook over the frame and tank. Use an old inner tube and cut a 1" (2cm) going metric inch by inch!!! to make a loop. Feed into wire loops and hew presto. Cheap, chearful and works

Fraser also made a frame for the twin exhaust XL engine, although I thought that had a counter sprocket for constant chain tension. Just a guess

Dont think it is a Godden, if you look at the swing arm pivot area the tube that comes from the top shock mount intersects the tube from the main frame which then continues down until the footrest. On the Godden it is the other way round. My guess a very well modified standard bike.

I honestly find my standard set up at least as good as a modern bike. Take out the actuating arm and make sure it is totally clean inside, regrease and fit new seal. (unscrew bolt just in front of rear sprocket) With a brand new Venhill cable it is very light without the need to remove springs.