mattylad

Honestly thought it was a GasGas swing arm but it was a ggod few years ago that I so it so the old memory could be playing tricks. Sorry If I got it wrong a quick way to check would be if the bottom shock mount has been welded to the swing arm as the originals are cast it I believe.

I dont' think there should have been a problem with the disc as the rear brake, wheel and swing arm were from a gasser. It could have been assembled wrongly afterwards as Nigel is very particular about the quality of his work. The issues I was refering to were the mounting of the master cylider for the rear brake the pedal and linkage and also matching the shock to a mounting on the swing arm as I recall the RTL is offset.

I would like to paint my fuel tank a nice bright yellow as used on the later grippers. Does anyone know the RAL colour code. Thanks I will answer my own question as I found the answer on a Spanish site it is RAL 1018 Zinc Yellow

Woody, thanks for the reply. The reason I want to fit a Gripper engine is that I have one and not got anything like a complete MAR. There are too many bits missing to make it a viable rebuild I think they are basically very similar with crankcases being the same. The cylinder and crank are different but in my opinion not such a massive change, the original MAR head and outer cases will also be fitted. Externally the only difference will be the number of fins on the barrel I have modded the footrest to be 1" lower and 1" rearward. I will leave the shocks as original. I will try the MAR style exhaust but fit an alloy middle box and a different rear box, probably a WES Fantic 300 (again in stock). I'll see how it goes and if I can pick up a MAR I can rebuild and fit it later. Cheers, Matt

I want to improve an Ossa MAR to run in the pre 76 class run over here. I will fit it with a Gripper 310cc engine and would like to fit a first oversize piston. Does anyone know of a source? Have you modified them in any way? For the frame this has to be the heaviest thing known to man. Does anyone sell a lighter swinging arm? Or recommend an alternative? What about footrest position? Lower and rearward, but by how much? Is laying down the shocks necessary as done on the later models? In short any advise would be welcome. Cheers. Any other mods to improve reliability or rideability would be welcome

Probably in the region of 100 pounds for chrome

I was in Birketts shop when he was modding the bike. Not a happy bunny as it was a lot of work but the money was good so the owner must have really wanted it done.

Certainly the Yam was the best bike to ride so why did I sell it and buy a 1991 Climber 280.

I would imagine they would remove your balls!! From where ever you choose.

At least it will not tuck under coming off a drop!!

I confidently expect him to be riding a Mongasbetashercorpa, covered with a large helping of sauce (Hammonds of course) under a Kangol lid.

You can buy them I have seen at least 3 customer bikes. Look at their web page for prices. Having tested them they are fabulous machines!

Marc, Mail box email cleaned up. Please drop me a line.

If you read French I have an article from the time or one in German. Is this the one that was on ebay from Provence as the silencer looks familiar?? I also own one of the beasties as well. Where are you based??? I am in Luxembourg Matt

If it's good you could sell it to me!!!!! Really interested in the middle box can you post photos. Where are you getting parts from as they are difficult to come by.

Just got some Diadora Stone 3. Luverly and comfortable, waterproof sock as well. Nice.

The Future trial bike is one hell of an engine for a 125. I rode one and loved it. Pricey but good.

What a joke. The reasons are still unclear but it is a good guess that it relates to the financial risk to the organising club. Bring back Bilstain at least it happened.

All the honda engines are basically compatible for parts. Fot the electronic ignition it is better to buy a scrap engine with the bits on from a road or trail bike XL CB etc and then swap over what is required. You can pick them up for around a hundred and have loads of other spares to boot.

I agree restore as standard. We have a couple of C15S with all the right bits. There are any number of parts out there to build a competative bike. If you start on this you will change almost everything. PS I thought the kickstart was standard on the comp bikes, as ours have them fitted.

I think Craig Mawlem has got some stainless steel ones in stock. They are really nice and much better finished than the SM ones. The slightly smaller inner diameter does not really change the engine power at all.

Evolution not revolution, the works guys always test the pre production stuff, so you are getting it early.f

The valve will give you problems if the clearence disappers when hot. It would normally hold the valve open and compression would dissaper. Have you tried running a softer plug. I use an NGK D6ES in mine. The exhaust heat shielding is important, not too difficult to bodge something on for a trial. Also if you wind on the throttle too fast it will cough and run rich, open smoother. Final thought is a resistor plug to blame as I use one without and electronic XL ignition.

I am going to fit a twinshock engined from a TY250 into a Montesa frame. I think this is more "in the spirit" than a mono engine. (Reason- I have both lying around). The real question of course is when will it end. I also have a TLM 260 engine as well!

I had trouble with my Jumbo nclutch. Check if the arm under the tank fouls when you pull it on. Mine touched against the main frame tube. I needed to flex mine away from the main frame before it cleared and pulled freely. Cheers, Matt