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Ran Boysen for years.... love 'em
The bike has less hit at low rpm but revs to the moon when required seems to feel like a bigger engine is installed.
Fitting straight forward remove airbox, rear shock and middle exhaust, 4 bolts hold on reed cage. Replace reeds using locktight on reed screws. Service swing arm suspension bushes at same time.
To solve pinking I use two base gaskets on cylinder which reduces the compression ratio but raises the ports half a millimeter so the effect is about the same.
Both mods are reversible so try it and see, my opinion well worth it.
I use a Keihin PWK 28 which required a slightly larger pilot jet. Small pilot jet could also be cause of pinking.
Ignition as standard is totally non-tunable.
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Who is/was Dennis Jones at number 33, never heard of him before.
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One of the few advantages of old age is that I consider spelling and grammer as important. It is amazing how many job applications I get with elementary errors.
So I agree please take the time to make the post comprehensible.
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I always use 10 x 42 as best summer option.
10 x 40 for winter.
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Chewey,
I'm glad you didnt take my comment the wrong way.
I agree retailers are the ones who really make the mark up which makes the bolt bloody expensive.
It all boils down to economy of scale for the little producer.
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Chewey,
Seems a pretty fair mark up on a bolt and spring.
Maybe you would sell more if you didnt charge so much!
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I love old bikes..but more modern ones work so much better, (disc brakes)
I would get a Mont 315 or a gas gas TXT.
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Rule number 1.
Never complain about a score you will get the benefit of the doubt 9 time out of 10.
Rule number 2.
Ride for pleasure, in your heart you won so the next victory will be all the sweeter.
Rule number 3.
I think the above two are enough to get by with!
Remember you ride for 5 hours the poor bugger observing is stood in an uncomfortable place with no facilities for your pleasure. Lifes too short to be anything other than grateful.
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Having bought 4 I say the are pretty damm good quality.
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Are there any multi day trials over the Easter weekend.
Prefer if it was up North.
It either that or go to the mother in laws!
Thanks for your help
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If he does sell I would be interested.
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Perhaps he heard the whisper from a horse!
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Yes I'm interested!
Please contact me off page
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I was not aware it was a minerelli base I thought Italjet made their own. Good tip thanks.
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I know it is a very long shot but does anyone have a kickstart shaft for the Italjet 6 speed trials of late 70's early 80's.
or is there a way to modify one from another bike.
(For those who do not know this was the major problem with this bike.... something of an Achillies heel)
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I think the basic answer is NO.
The ignitions are generally much lighter, the gearbox have different ratios.
Not sure about cylinders though you could offer up a TY base and head gasket to confirm.
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WES are all approx 1" diameter, as they make such a wide range there are clearly other solutions. Go with the basis and you will not be far wrong.
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Use a straight through perforated tube of internal diameter 1 inch.
This is pretty much the standard set up for all tailboxes.
Go smaller for smoother power, bigger for faster reving.
Use a perforated sheet with as many small holes as possible, this helps sound absorbtion.
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See the fifth article down
www.trial-club.com
My french is pretty fluent having used it as a working language for 10 years.
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Seen on a french and italian site that it's happened.
No news on scorpa site..... why???
If you had just signed your number 1 rider to ride your brand new bike I would have thought it merited at least a small announcement.
Maybe I should go into PR!
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Any bike that Steve Saunders is riding.
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For the side cover I just made sure it followed the line of the frame on left hand side.
I cut an alloy plate to use as a seat with a 2mm foam top. I.e as narrow and low as possible.
I have not yet got the barrel it is still at my fathers, the specs give 22bhp as a pose to 16 for TY so it will be more powerful, wether the bottom end goes only time will tell.
There is a big bore kit on ebay at the moment.
The clutch side cover is just cut away to leave the circular flywheel cover so that it does not trap mud.
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Ok,
Lowered the footrests,
removed head gasket,
machined half the flywheel weight off,
narrowed the side cover after removing the oil tank,
put on a modified tailbox with same internal design as a shirty mono,
28mm dellorto.
stiffened forks by removing tight would coils by 3" or so.
It certainly is a lot friskyer now only needs some Boyesens.
Does any one have a code number for the late post 1975 engine.
I have bought a cheap culinder off of a DT 250 i will fit this in a few weeks to see the difference.
Thanks for your help.
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Thanks for the info,
What did you do on the porting front and head mods?
I am looking for a more modern power delivery not the slow old girl of yesteryear.
Where your changes required as a result of altitude we are nearer 500mm above sea level.
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