mattylad

Don't think it is very funny

If you fancy reading French I have an article on how Burgat and Schreiber modified their bikes which I could scan.

Thats not Peter Richters old bike is it?

I heard from a good source that the scooter fuel pumps are much smaller an slide straight in. Maybe this is a way to go. Also you could try Team Diego bosis who also had flat tanks with a real dinky filler cap. They had polished ones and also they had shotblasted them using either fine or course sand for a different effect.

No this hole is not standard. It will advance the exhaust opening by a massive amount. I am amazed it ran well enough to ride, shouldnt have pulled at all. Use araldite in the hole not a grub screw as this is hard metal and could always come out.

Did my first trial at 12 years old on a Sprite Sachs 150 at Eadonfields, wet muddy got cramp in my legs on the way home from all the legging. On one route so no options. All this was over 30 years ago, so it shows how deep the mental scars go. Good news still really enjoying riding trials 30 years later. Its the only sport for me!!

No they are different lengths

If the bike is hardly used after 10 or 11 scottish what constitutes a well used bike

Nigel Birkett was a works rider he may be able to help you.

A lot of the top end mountain bikes are made in the far east....... (not far from Japan), the issue is material quality and manufacturing quality control. If you combine this with slave labour costs the end product is going to be cheaper than using 1st world labour costs. If the number of units is sufficiently higher then it is cost effective to develop a new product moulds etc. Will this ever be the case with trials? The real secret is material quality. I have to say some spanish factories have produced their fair share of rubbish. Having said all that I have just purchase one of Halifax's finest an Orange 222!

Any info on who was there, what were they riding, photos etc. Thanks.

If PaulM is not interested I would be. Thanks

Woody thank you for the considered reply. I think our opinions differ somewhat in execution but not real substance. Firstly in Europe we do not have air cooled mono class so that is a non-starter for me. The problem with allowing obviously modified bikes is that it starts a ball rolling which is difficult to stop. Just look at pre-65 to see what I mean 5-6000 pounds Ariel and v. expensive cubs. For me forks do give a significant advantage when they work properly as you say the 250 Yam ones don't (which is one of the reasons I am selling mine and converting the TLM). For me the biggest problem with genuine twinshocks is the speed of the power delivery, I swap from a modern two stroke and mistime everything so I want a similar response. Maybe I should buy an early Fantic. As I am over 40 and I am not a pot hunter I just want to ride round enjoying watching others on bikes from my era. I love Hondas and have 4 two strokes and 2 four strokes so for me the solution is easy. It is also a question of personlisation but from a different starting point. Up to a point many of the mods do make original bikes much better, that is why I think a specials class is necessary as people with original bikes dragged out of the garage will be put off competing. Exactly as has happened in pre 65. Here we have a guy who has got a 250 Yam twinshock down to 82kg....and obviously spent a fortune. My TLM is just as good and costs 500 pounds. Obviously there is no perfect solution but if thinking converges a good and most importantly, a workable solution can be found. Woody sorry the SWM is not for sale as I may need it if the TLM is banned!!!

I still favour 3 classes. pre 76, original twinshock any year, must be rigidly enforced prototype anything goes including lightly modified late twinshock. aircooled and drum brake only.

Ohhh please!!! there are quite a few that are not as built Electronic ignitions in Bultaco, Yamaha Reed valve engines in Fantics Cotswolds Improved rear shocks, head angle changed. Yam mono wheels forks swingarm in majesty and others for better brakes etc. I therefore question what is the spirit of twinshock? It is better to have a prototype or special class where any twinshock whatever its heritage can ride. I would also add a pre '76 class so the early twinshocks are riding against bikes of the same era. If not we get into the pre-65 situation where fiddle bikes are the norm. I am just in the process of modifying a TLM 220 to twinshock as I have a SWM Jumbo which is suppost to be one of the best twinshock and can not get away with the power delivery. I will happily ride in a prototype class against ex-mono Yams, Cotswolds, reed valve fantics etc. The point is to have fun against a comparable bike hence the different classes. My only specification would be aircooled and fitted with drum brakes. I think it is important to have this debate now so that the same rules are applied by each club equally and we don't get the same problem as in pre 65 where nowt is standard. By the way would you allow my ex works Ossa monoshock from 1975 to ride in the twinshock class as it is genuine and totally original to the era??

Worryingly this underwear topic was posted next to smelly helmets, I hope there is no connection.

"My moral....at least it works here,, make the seller an offer to stop the auction and sell it for "around XXX" with a buy it now. Offer to transfer a small deposite via paypal to cover his costs and then go and haggle" Got to say a deal is a deal at least where I come from. If you agree a price you should stick to it. Remember a seller is always positive about his product, you should factor in an allowance for exageration before you bid not after. As a seller I would not hesitate to say that is the agreed price take it or leave it ........even from a "lawyer"

Bit late in on the post but... Scott had the issue solved in the 1920's they used a thermo siphon to circulate the water so no water pump required. Maybe if there was a bypass valve uhmm that would need a battery to activate q.e.d

Use a silicon bead to seal the parts together. Use car type or exterior transparent house sealent. You must let it set solid overnight before starting the bike. Even works for the seal between cylinder and exhaust.

Being really tight I lighten bikes in the following areas. Wheel spacers and snail cams in alloy, Drill brake arms, gear lever and kickstart (sometimes) Remove all extra brackets on frame, Simplify wiring, Remove seat and side panels, replace with alloy sheet and a foam or rubber pad. Replace steel fuel tank with alloy or plastic, Use alloy bolts on all non-stress parts such as engine covers etc much cheaper than titanium. I think titanium is not cost effective in terms of kg per euro. Alloy exhaust is biggest saving, contact WES to see if they have done one in the past. If you are really keen there is a couple of articles on how to lighten a motocross bike on the eurospares web site (use google). At the end of it all it is an old bike that was heavy in its day, the sections are less challenging so just get out and ride.

I am looking for a parts list or similar for a TLM. I also need basic info such as jetting, oil volumes in forks, gearbox, ignition timing, gearing etc etc. Thanks,

99.9% certain its a gas gas engine as well

What is the basic difference, wheel rims and fuel tank plus full road gear? Is the engine frame the same. Thanks

The trial has been cancelled yesterday due to legal problems with rights of way. Bl**dy beauracrats

I think Marc is a very shy person. I spoke to him at length in Luxembourg a couple of years ago. Very interesting guy with a lot of experience and I think technically one of the best riders ever.