spawtydawg

Yup, I agree that a good quality 428 chain would be ok, but as the bike came with a 520 set up, and is almost new I'm reluctant to change it. Furse, 13/53 that's quite tall gearing, I take it the bike must handle it ok seeing as you want to go even taller?

It's what the bike came with when I bought it. Are you using a 428 chain? And am I right in thinking that the equivalent gear ratios, ie 12/48 for example would be taller if using a 520 chain setup, given that the spaces between each tooth would be larger?

Hi everyone, as above... What gearing is the prefered choice when using a 520 chain set up? Clubman/intermediate rider, doing classic trials, Kia rounds etc. My bike has 11/51 gearing. Have recently purchased the bike and haven't had chance to ride it in anger yet, but wondering if 11/51 will be too tall. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the replies. I have done a bit of research and now know that the conrods are different and the stroke is longer, which would indicate that the crankshaft is different also, although from what I've been told the gearboxes are the same. So I suppose it is possible but would involve a lot of work.

Hi everyone. Is it possible to convert a 200 pro into a 240 and vice versa? Are the bottom ends of the engine the same, i.e. gearbox ratios, crank, con rod etc? Would the barrels be a straight swap, and would you need to change the exhaust and carb? I know all the pro model frames are the same and I'm curious to find out if it's possible. Thanks in advance.

Hi, I've spoken to the Beta importers here in the UK and it's not a cost worthy option. Yes it can be done but you're looking at almost a complete engine, piston, cylinder, con rod, crank, etc. so you'd be better off buying a new bike. Converting a 250 to a 300 is much easier as they basically are the same apart from the cylinder and piston from what I can gather. So I'll either soften my 250 or save my pennies and buy a new 200.

Hi, has anyone converted a 250 Evo down to a 200? Is it just a case of changing the barrel and the piston? I've noticed that the stroke on the 200, 250 and the 300 is the same at 60.5mm, which would suggest that they use the same crank. I know the carb is different, but, I don't think that this would be an issue. The bike in question is a 2012 model. Any advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.

God it makes you puke, I can't ride like that on my Evo! Great vid.

Thanks scorpa250, yours is too by the way. Is yours a 175 or have you gone down the 200 route? I've heard it a lot of bucks for not much gain. Have you ridden it yet and if so what do you think of it?

Hi, sorry to hi-jack the thread but here is a picture of my Whitehawk. It has a TY mono front end. Ian Pederby built up most of this bike for me last year and it is a credit to his workmanship! I can't comment on the twin leading shoe set up, but all I can say is that the TY mono front brake is more than adequate for my limited ability. I also like the fact that you don't see too many around. Mine is still a 175 by the way, all be it with a few mods here and there, porting, etc.

Is there any reason why you prefer to run a tubeless tyre? Why not just use a tubed type tyre? I use a tubed IRC tyre on my Ty with no problems, even when running low tyre pressures.

Nothing wrong with it as such, a really good bike but I just prefer riding the Ty in the twinshock trials that I compete in. I gave it a good go but it came to a point that whenever I was doing a twinshock event I would always go for my Yam. Just personal preference...

Sold my 200, well the other day actually. Prefer my Ty !!!

Sorry to hijack the topic but is it possible to lace a tubeless rim onto a TY mono hub? Do the Z shaped spokes cause any problems doing this? Thanks.

I have a pair of Betors on a 200 Fantic and they work fine, I weigh about 160lbs in US currency and the 40lb springs are plenty firm enough, but I'm pretty certain they aren't rebuildable. Have you thought about Rockshocks? I have a pair on a TY and personally I think they work very well. They are totally rebuildable and you can do it at home as they don't need to be pressurised, you can also adjust the damping to suit your particular needs, they are more expensive than the Betor shocks though! "Ah the agony of choice" as Blackadder once said.

Yeah, me too!

Ha ha, thanks Jon but I shall wait to see the official results. Knowing me I've probably run over a marker or gone the wrong way.... I think I prefer the Whitehawk over the Maj unless we're talking about the singer !!!

Hi, I'm thinking of having my Pinky shock serviced, can any one recommend someone here in the UK ? Thanks.

I just love watching videos like this, it just shows what older machinery is capable of when you have a class rider on board. What fantastic bike handling skill. Thanks for posting.

Hi folks, title says it all really. I don't know if this subject's been covered before but I was wondering If any one has got a preference for either and if so why? Are they much the same or is one any better than the other? The Whitehawk doesn't seem to be as popular as the Majesty, is this just because there wasn't as many made? Thanks for any comments.

The white wonder is definitely shorter than the early red model ( about 37mm or so ). I've built one up using a later banana swing arm, had the footpegs lowered and it steers and rides really well... As Woody has already mentioned the clutch is probably the worst aspect of the bike, they drag, no matter what type of oil you use and being quite small in diameter sometimes struggle in the taller gears. As.to what they're like compared to a large bore Bultaco, I'd imagine they would be fairly similar but I've never ridden one, over to you Woody.

Hi, I'm thinking about lowering the foot pegs on my pinky. Is it a worth while mod bearing in mind I'm going to have to pay for the work to be done and will it detract from the value of the bike ? Cheers.

They could call it a Gossa or a Gassa Gassa! .

Hi I stripped my cota 349 down a few years ago, although it's not a 348 they would be very similar. It's fairly straight forward, just take loads of pictures with a digital camera and mark items with a blob of paint so you know that it's gone back in the same order/ place/position that you've stripped it down in. Make cardboard templates for the casing and crankcase bolts, again so as you know from whence they came. I suspect the hardest job will be is to remove the primary drive gear, this is on a tapered shaft and can be a real b*stard to get off, you will need a very good quality puller and quite probably some heat. Take your time with it, good luck.

Have to agree with BillyT on this one. I ride with very narrow bars ( I cut 15mm off each end ) it's just what I prefer, I've tried riding with standard width bars but always end up chopping the ends off. Play around with settings and see what feels best for you. What suits one person may not suit another coz we're all different shapes and sizes.