bullylover

If you look closely at the old seal you will find it is a double lipped seal. The new ones are only a single lipped seal which is why you need two of them facing in opposite directions. The old one is about 14mm wide and the new single ones are 7mm wide.

It will be the 4 seals from In Motion you need. Insert these seals back to back so they face in different directions. I always have the spring side facing towards the out side of the seal carrier on both sides of the carrier.

Guess what idiot forgot to have a look John? I`ll be back out there early next week though.

I would check that the shaft isn`t bent and if it is okay then lay the bike over and drip some oil into where the shaft goes through the case. It may have some corrosion in there causing it to stick. That is about all I can think of without simply pulling the motor apart to find out why.

Hi jc2. I can have a look for you tomorrow. I will let you know tomorrow night. I think they did but I`m not 100% sure. Graham.

That sounds like the kickstart return spring has lost its spring. Is the kickstart returning as normal? If not you will have to install a new spring.

The kits from In Motion last a long time anyway. I have had a set in my 199B for the last 8 years and they are still good. There are needle roller kits out there. I have heard a couple of bad reports though. And a couple of good reports too. They are also expensive. Graham.

Yes they are. Ask for a sleeve for a model 92 as they are exactly the same.

My sidestand spring is a fair way off my footpeg. I may look close in that photo but it`s not.

You will be able to see how far back and down you can go with the new brackets and pegs. Don`t go lower than the bashplate though.

I have found over the years that all of the 250s run the best at 2.6mm BTDC. They are a lot smoother at this timing. So I agree with sherpa325

I have one on all of my 3 Sherpa Ts and they all work very well. Easy to get right and the D slide ones have much better pull right off the bottom.

I think your suspicion may be correct. Someone has put a Pursang head on it. Or maybe it was done to fit a decompressor on the head.

If you`re in the US then try Tim Weaver at Bultaco Classic and if you`re in the UK try Dave Renham at In Motion Trials. They might not have 198B sleeves but they may have some earlier ones. 198A or a 198.

Wow. I have had 3 Australian 159s apart and they all had nuts to hold the clutch springs in as well as a few 158s were the same. We must have been lucky over here. Mine has nuts on it.

That inner basket is the wrong one for a 159. A 159 should have nuts to hold the clutch springs in not pins. I think most of the later Sherpas all use the same clutch but I`m not sure when they changed from the pins to the nuts. But any clutch inner basket that used nuts should work.

There is a few different spacers that go behind the clutch and the primary drive. Different widths/ heights. I know a 158 primary drive will not fit a 151 engine without changing both spacers as it sat at a different height and the primary chain didn`t line up.

Hi Mark. Give Feet Up Fun a hoy. If anyone in Australia would know David probably would or maybe Paul from the Hell Team.

Hi Greg. All of the Sherpa T models had 6 volt bulbs in them. Graham.

Google would be your friend here I think. England is the best bet for all of this.

Every batch of paint that Bultaco bought was a slightly different colour. I can remember in the very early eighties at a Trial over here there were 6 or 7 M199As all lined up in a row and all of the blues were slightly different.

The Bultaco Red in PPG paints is Torch Red. Code DAR 74013. Thanks to Bultaco Classic for this information. I think In Motion also has spray cans of this red. The yellow is on the sidecovers because that is the universal colour that an open class motorcrosser has to have on all of its numberplates.

You may find it will power 12 volt LEDs with no hassles. I know on the points ignition ones often you had to run a 12 volt bulb in the brake and tail light to stop them blowing bulbs. If you have to change the ignition then just buy a 12 volt system.

Try Steve Goode. He has a page on Facebook. He has most Italjet parts. I do know where there is one but the bloke who owns it does not want to sell it.

If I was you I would change the primary side crank seal and probably the ignition side as well. Especially if this engine has been sitting around for a while. The crank seals do go hard. They are pretty easy to change. You don`t have to split the engine in halves just pull the clutch and the primary drive off and put the seal carrier off. If you do this be sure to put a new O-ring in behind the spacer behind the primary drive Looking at your videos I would still give it a rebore and a new piston kit. Graham.