bullylover

See that adjustment screw on the top of the carby there is the second video. Use it to take out most of the slack in the cable. You still haven`t shown how much slack there is in the cable before the slide starts to move. There is only supposed to be 1 to 2mm of slack or play in the cable before the slide starts to move. Lube the cable with some WD 40 or CRC and also clean the insides of the throttle. That should remove the slow movement of the cable. Graham.

Enquire at all of the Bultaco dealers around. I`m sure the Weavers still have some and I know that Don Newells stock in Brisbane there is still quite a few there. In Motion would still have some as well. Then there is Spain. Still a lot of NOS parts there. Graham.

And on the Tirons as well. M73.

Hi trapezeartist. The outer part of the bearing you should be able to use a long round punch or just a piece of metal bar long enough to go through the frame and hit from the top and knock it out that way. There should be just enough of a lip on the inside on the steering head frame to grab. The inner one is always a real pain. The last few I`ve done I just use a cut off blade (1mm) on a 5 inch grinder and use an angle cut across the whole thing. Just try to not cut into the main shaft. You usually have to cut all of the way through it. It does look as if it is a bit past its useby date. Cheers Graham.

Thanks trapezartist. I have noticed I seem to be the only one liking or laughing at these jokes. I don`t care though! If I laugh I`ll put up a smiley face and if I smile I put up a like. Cheers Graham.

The 0 in the top of them is just a stamp. Most of that style of cap have them. You have to remove the fork caps to service them. Inside you will find an 8 mm nut holding a washer and a spring. Pull all of it off and clean everything. Poke a bit of wire into the hole where the oil is coming from and try and make sure it is clean. Sometimes they stop squirting and sometimes they don`t stop squirting. One thing you can do is just spin the fork legs so the squirt misses your eyes and the bike when the caps are screwed up tight. Don`t forget to loosen the top clamp bolts to get the caps off. They are standard. Graham.

I use 180/ 190cc in all of mine, I have a M159, M199 and a M199B that has I think M151 forks on it. The B also has Italjet Betor damper rods in it. That was to stop them topping out like crazy. I`m in Australia so I find 15 weight suits me and the conditions over here but we don`t have the cold that you do in England. I saw somewhere on here that Sammy Miller used to recommend 5 weight in winter and 15 weight in Summer which sound about right to me. Graham.

Hi again fourex. I had a look today and that jumbo is about the same as yours. The left shock moves in as it goes up. The right one does very slightly but the left one is about 15mm or so. I didn`t measure it so that is just an eye measure. Graham.

Hi Fourex. I checked that Jumbo today and the long spacer on the left side of the rear wheel was 32mm and the short one on the sprocket/ brake side is 16.5mm. I didn`t pull the wheel off to measure the inner one. I also forgot to look at the angle of the shocks to see if they angle in at the top. My M199B really does on one side so it would not surprise me if they are like that standard. A few of the Montesas are bad in that regard. I`ll try and remember to have a look tomorrow. Graham.

I wish I did. Mick bought one a little while ago. I`m waiting on him to buy some gaskets and stuff so I can put a new kickstart shaft in it. Then I might be able to get it to go. It is Darryl Martins old one, also the one that Bernie used when he did that Trials School in Sydney in the early eighties.

I can have a look tomorrow for you fourex.

In Motion also do one for a Motoplat ignition which has 2 different threads on it. These fit the Bultaco and the Italjet Motoplat ignitions. I have never tried it on a Montesa so I don`t know about them.

If they are 35mm Betors then use KTM SX 65 from 2002 to 2009 seals. These are Ariette seals with a double lip and even come with some seal grease to cut friction from new. You only need one seal a side with these. I use them in all my Bultacos and they are brilliant. Graham.

Hi Mark. Over here in Australia Panama Green from the Holden colours is a very close match. I think it was from the HQs which came out in around 1973/74. Graham.

They are around that size Cornishflyer. I have one on the bench where I keep my bikes but I won`t be back there until next week. I can`t remember if that headlight was off a M159 or a M199 but they were all the same size on the later ones anyway. Not real sure about the very early Sherpas. Someone must have one in the corner of their shed still.

Just put a new tensioner in there. In Motion have them and they are not expensive. Any high revving Bultaco engine it is best to not use a tensioner as they have a tendency to self destruct. On the slower revving bikes they smooth the switch from no revs to some revs quite a bit. Just makes them smoother.

Use a small flat blade screwdriver and wiggle it in under the edge of that cover and work your way around the whole thing. They do sometimes stick to the hub. Just keep at it and it will come loose. Graham.

That one in the photos is all Gas Gas and it bolted straight on. Graham.

Mark, the kickstart is off a 1998/1999 Gas Gas. They are an all alloy one. Sorry I couldn`t get a bit closer to get good photos but the bike is up on a shelf thing with not much room around it.

Hello Mark and Fourex. I have bought one from Steve Goode a few years ago but it was not for me and I can`t remember which Gas Gas it was from. I should be able to find out though. I can also take a photo of the kickstart which someone else might be able to identify which model it is from. Steve Goode would also know so maybe just contact him. Graham.

Hi Rusty Nuts. Your Sherpa is a M198 which came out here in Australia in 1978. It should have a red plastic tank and mudguards. The Bultacos didn`t really come out at the start of each year which is why everyone just says the first two(early ones) or three numbers(later ones) of the engine and frame numbers. The later 250s start with a R whereas the later 350s start with a J. That`s why you know yours is a 250. RM198. Graham.

One other thing it could be is the end of the high tension lead where the spark plug cap screws on. This often gets very corroded and won`t let much current through. So just take the plug cal off and trim the spark lead a half an inch or 10 mm. As has been said the green is the ground and the black goes to the coil.

I have found that the biggest improvement for the Sherpa clutch is to use a rear brake lever or a long front brake lever on the clutch pivot on the ignition case. Make sure everything is well lubricated and use a Venhil teflon lined cable. I use Barnett plates on all of mine so I can use less pressure on the clutch springs. I have heard of folk using 4 clutch springs if they are new ones. I tried with Barnett springs and it slipped trying to start a 326. Went back to 6 old springs set at 4.5 turns out.

Over here in sunny Australia any club day has to have at least 1 First Aider in attendance with a good first aid kit which all the clubs have. Any Interclub or Open event has to have a Paramedic in attendance. He or She is usually bored for most of the day but is sometimes needed for minor cuts and bruises. We held the Queensland Modern Bike Championships on the Weekend and there was only one bigger injury which was a footpeg into the shin of a rider rather deeply. He went to get stiches after he finished for the first day of a 2 day trial and rode the next day but rather gingerly though. So they are needed. We say who the first aid person or people are at the Riders Briefing so everyone knows. Graham.

If you look in any manual including the owners manuals they all say to back the clutch nuts off 4 turns. So start from there and adjust according to slippage or clutch lever stiffness. A Venhil cable also make a big difference.